Pete K.
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Posts posted by Pete K.
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Thank you for posting this Mike
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Measuring these are a real trick to do when the top is up, you're alone, you can't sit in the rear seat nor stand up. All the other top parts are in the way.
I will try my best to get you better measurements if you need them.
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Mike, The second bow appears to be about 54", inside measurement. The bracket you are holding in photo is different than mine. same slot on top, but a J hook at bottom that hooks into slot of the body bracket. Those straps are 7/8" wide that are probably nailed at rear of top bow, being one long piece each side. They loop through my J hook bracket and go back up to bow and that end is nailed also. Each entire strap appears to be about 38"- 40" long. The straps appear to be made of a folded burlap core with a linen covering sewn through itself in two rows. They seem to be pretty tough in strength.
My top bows are covered with a black linen.
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I'll have this info tomorrow Mike.
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Almost impossible for me to get an accurate measurement on my end. Yours seem to be the same as mine though. Is there thought your bows are not original to the car?
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Try Myers Early Dodge Parts. He may have a good used one. Also try the "Olcar Bearing Co." I do not have their contact info but I know they're in Hemmings.
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Yup- Dealt with EGGE since 1971. No problems.
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Mike, I have a beat up incomplete 1920's Dodge roadster folding top, iron and wood. It's yours if you want it. Of course a fair deal of altering would be in order.
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Thanks carbking! I never knew of the stamped coding on those covers. Now I do.
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'24 or '25. Yard art only. Pretty neat one at that.
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If you stop and think about it, you are not using or losing much engine vacuum at all "IF" your system is working as it should. Vacuum is sealed by the valving in the vacuum tank and when used to siphon fuel, the "extra" engine vacuum needed is only in the little fuel line to the bottom of the fuel tank. I've run a few early cars with tired engines and never had a problem getting the fuel up to the vacuum tank. If you can start the engine and get an inspection sticker on it, you've got plenty of vacuum to operate your system.
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Hi Mike, I wish I could offer something other than checking the connections at relay box, (now diode box). My '25 Dodge, #388850, still has the stupid old coil relay. I have to update this. I checked the ground strap and find it is about a foot long, attached to the upper left corner stud,( as viewed from under the hood, our passenger side) and that stud also has a little "Z" shaped strap which is fastened to the slotted round head screw in the base cover of relay box. The trailing end of the "Ground strap" goes down to a bolt on the bell housing. This cable is also insulated, probably so it can't short out another stud on the back of the relay box.
P.S. no priming cups on cyl. head either.
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J & M Machine Co. in Southborough, Mass. could do it. They do everything else old. Try them at; (508)-460-0733.
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Machinist Bill; There's tons of Ash trees up here in Mass., so I'm sure some lumber yard could get enough for top bows or wood wheel spokes, etc...
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I have to concur with you pstork. I believe the heat, oil, combined with age turns the gray paint a very light green.
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Ray, They very well could've done it that way at the factory. I think it's a great idea, thanks.
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Those front brackets are getting awful hard to find in good shape. It appears those can be easily welded up to reuse them. Trick is; Take the brackets off frame, clamp them together where they bolt to the frame, then weld the broken ends back on. This way, you can see that you're welding them both straight to each other. Let them cool very slowly, bury them in sand right away if you have to for the afternoon. When cold, grind weld smooth, paint black-- you're done. Bolt the bars back on of course.
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Nearchocolatetown is right, the engine splash pans, or dust pans do keep the engine bay cooler by directing the hot air out, but as I will add, they also help in the engine electrical bonding to the frame. I don't know of any car of this era that didn't come with them originally. The originals on my Dodge are Galvanized steel, and a coating of black gloss enamel for a finish.
Many of them are cracked or missing as stated above. If ya got 'em, use 'em.
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I think your dark blue looks good anyway.
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No problems with my lock either, BUT---as a very low-level security by today's standards, having the trans locked in neutral only makes easy flatbed heists easy, with a touring car, no door locks and just the parking brake on makes it easy for anyone to pull the car out and away. This is the least of my worries as my insured cars are locked in my barn anyway. The BIG benefit to this shifter lock is USING it at local car shows. There have been many times I wander away from my cars for many reasons. It has happened that a "young person", in age or mental capacity has entered the vehicle and stepped on the starter button. Needless to say, if the vehicle has been left in gear, it WILL move. God forbid there is nobody's knees against the front bumper when that happens. In my experience, not many parking brakes will hold too well, IF they're even set!
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Here's my orig. Transmission key for a '25. I found it tucked behind my rear-view mirror a month after getting the car. It works smooth.
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You may want to look into a couple of products here; "Cast-Blast" from Snyder's Antique Auto Parts in Ohio and "Calyx" from the Eastwood Co. out west. These two coatings seem to have long years of duration staying on the manifolds.
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I had a '30 Buick, series 40, for many years. (years ago). I'm sticking with the thought that the hood is from a '30 Buick. I don't have any idea what the length was with the 6 cylinder motor of 1930, but the '31, (straight 8) would be a trifle longer?
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Rog., Most Wurlitzer jukeboxes from 1936-1942 came with their own little oil cans just like that.
Cracked valve seat.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted · Edited by Pete K. (see edit history)
Hi Ray! A quick story; I removed the head of my Model A to replace a very old head gasket years ago, just to know a new one is on the engine. I quickly noticed a fairly good size crack from the #2 cyl. exhaust seat heading to the cylinder. This is from a quick wipe of grime from the block with an oily rag!
I never even had a remote hint of any problem when the Ford was running for several years with it like that. I ended up finding another valve seat crack and busted off two studs myself. I DID elect to find a better block, Model A's being easy to find, not the old Dodge though! I feel bad for your position now.
Installing a steel seat can be kind of scary as Taylormade states. I wonder if a repair can be made by heating up the whole block and then welding with a cast iron rod, then machine that down.