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Posts posted by Pete K.
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I used to contend with those old style nipples. Not anymore. I buy the new type from Snyder's antique Ford parts in Ohio. They're not clogged with old rock hard grease, no broken or missing springs or balls inside, and the shape is the type that my modern grease gun snaps onto, I can buy the sleeves of chassis lube to fill the gun, and pump away. Buying the fittings are possibly cheaper than finding the type of gun for the cone type fittings. Unless you plan on a national fine point judging meet, nobody cares about the newer nipples.
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Now THAT is a work of art!
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Try Don Axlerod of "Headlight Headquarters" in Lynn, Ma. He's got TONS of headlights and parts to all of them. He IS listed in Hemmings Motor News.
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I'm not far from you in Taunton. Do you still have the Ford A?? You can reach me at 978-777-7213. Pete.
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"Year of manufacture" plate users in Mass. are charged 50 bucks PER YEAR instead of every two years for regular plates. Still need the inspection sticker for safety only, no emission testing. With Y.O.M. plates, you do not need to paste the inspection sticker on windshield but must carry it in vehicle with your registration. To be eligible for antique Mass plates or YOM plates, car needs to be 25 years or older and follow RMV rules for the restricted usage of the antique vehicle. Note; One rule is for driving said vehicle for testing purposes, maybe a new fuel pump or any rebuilt part. I wouldn't be too nervous about that . Just don't commute to work everyday with it. Your insurance costs are greatly reduced with Mass antique, or YOM plates, also only one rear plate is necessary.
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Any way you could send one more out to me? I would greatly appreciate it and your time! <pfkesting@hotmail.com>
Thank you very much, --- Pete.
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Boy I can sure believe it! There are more seams, folds and hardware all over these side curtains.
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Here you go. Note most Isinglass is broken out and someone sewed in fabric in the rear quarter curtains. The fasteners consist of CommonSense type, LiftDot and common snaps that do line up with what I have on this Dodge Touring. I'm missing some of the body and top fasteners that mate to the curtains. Driver's curtain has the flap for arm signaling. I wish I had the boot, but no such thing here among all the different side curtains.
Thanks for the kind words Bob, I thought I should lay a ruler/yardstick along images of curtains to help, I'll try and draw out measurements I noticed the curtains are too tight at some areas, they've shrunk a tad. I could mail you the paperwork of the measurements. -Pete
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Thanks Bob, I sent the photo's. If you ever see a set of top saddles for the '25 touring, let me know. --Best regards, Pete Kesting, Sr.
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No, Didn't get to Hershey, Rain here until Sunday, with a huge Nor'easter coming here Wed. eve. I'm going to pull the box out with the curtains and start photographing them anyway, in barn somewhere. I don't own an I-Phone but have a Kodak with flash. It just takes a bit longer than most folks can do.
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If it stops raining, I'll lay out what I have for some good photo's to start with.
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Just now saw the post. I, too, am missing all steel posts. Wondering if any repro Model A Ford posts may be worked over to use on the Dodge. I have not located any of the '25 side curtains yet, as many originals are piled into boxes buried in barn somewhere.I will look for a set to help you.
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Buy a bottle of "Seafoam" gas treatment, follow directions on can. Sounds to me like carbon stuck under a valve (s), after your 2200 mile trip, it very well could be the culprit if it was running a bit rich. It does not take long for carbon to form in the older auto's combustion chambers. Pull a spark plug and see if it's black. If it isn't, it still could be carbon worked loose from previous times and a bit could be keeping a valve from sealing the valve port.
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My guess would be all black background, hence all '25 touring cars were all black from factory. I can't see factory painting in other colors for coupes and sedans as the tire carrier was already painted, done and dried, all lined up as the assembly line was going! I know they had men pin-striping the bodies, but I highly doubt they would have that much time to do the insignias. I'm sure we've all seen every color of the rainbow put onto the carrier insignia, but by whom, over the last 90 years??
Many other makes of cars in this same time era used black in their design on hubcaps and the like, Buick for one. ('29)?, Packards used black and red for years.
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Like said before, documents of receipts, especially engine work, may boost value up from 8K, maybe 11-12K? A professional engine shop is very expensive these days. Can you tell me what size rims and what type/size tires you have on your new touring? Your "new" car is very sharp!
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I got sprayed across the knees trying to get my dog away from a skunk. ( I had on shorts). My hot coffee went all over me. Pup got it in the snout. As I was screaming and swearing, I saw dog rubbing his snout in a yellow jacket nest in ground 25 ft. away. and getting stung. I ran to pull him away and slipped in a" huge" poop pile and went sliding down to my shoulders on ground, now being attacked by bees. It was "breath taking" to say the least. This was Sunday morning and a church is right next door. Upwind.
The singing halted, the flock gawked at a crazy man sitting in his yard, taking his clothes off and swearing 'till the air was blue. This was 17 years ago and some church goers still leer at me as they walk by my house. I related this story on the old Larry Glick show on WBZ-Boston and "friends" still call me "stinky". Ya, Ha Ha ,real funny.
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I've been using straight STP for many years with good results, no "side affects" in any of the early cars I've had/have.
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Yes, I agree this is an interesting thread! I do agree with Carl, and I will keep my carb inlet air ducting as wide open as it will go, short of disassembling it somehow.
I have noticed the painted upper portion of my carb frosting up on the outside on start up/idle, in Summer and other seasons.
I don't recall having that plate with any square nuts and long carriage bolts in my '25. It's a slightly different set up, but original.
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Wow, Ray, those real glass wings with the beveled edges look great. I've always been disheartened with my Plexiglass wings on a 1925 auto. They do polish up very clear when I give them a wiping of the #2 NOVUS polish and a rag.
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Mine being the same on the '25, I polished the face highlights, (brass) and painted in the background black, as I seem to have found traces of the black paint still left on part of it. Word to the wise; use gasoline proof paint. The tank fumes go up into that gauge face area and will crinkle up a lot of the enamel paints used today!! P.S. I believe the green you're seeing is corroded brass.
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Hope you didn't give up on me Mike, I'm so slow lately. Let me know if the pictures are not good enough, they seem cropped off more than I took with my camera for some reason. One pic is from me standing at the front right wheel, looking at the top part, next is from behind the wing, at the bottom. The other pic is the overall side view. The steel strap used was painted black to match windshield frame and the wing glass chrome backets are fastened to the strap at the top & bottom with screws and nuts.
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My '25 and an old spare engine I have are both galvanized pans. No sign of any paint.
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I did read that a lawsuit existed, I thought it may have been between Buick and Marmon.
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Looks like a Buick to me with the "widow's peak" top inner radiator shell. Packard's didn't have the Widow's peak.
That radio is an 1931 Atwater-Kent, model 84, AM receiver. Left knob- on-off, center knob dial, right knob volume.
Correct Grease Gun for '26 DB Fittings
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I just checked;
Bratton's Antique auto parts sells the newer Zerk fittings SEPARATELY, whereas Snyder's sells them by the set for the Model A. They're around 50 cents each.