Dave39MD
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Posts posted by Dave39MD
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7 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:
I guess these cars really were intended for warm dry climates!
and to be replaced in a few years.
My 31 Chevy Cabriolet is the same way, just drains in the back and you can't get to it. Most are all rotted out in that area before restoration.
Dave
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Thanks for the reply's and suggestions.
Dave
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Thanks Bloo,
I did not think the stop leak was a good idea but he was convinced the Evaporust opened something up. It is an original Harrison honey comb. He did keep water in the block for weeks when the head was in the shop and no leak down. No core plugs under the push rod cover and hard to think of any spot that would put water in the oil except the head gasket but I continue to be surprised on what I learn.
Dave
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My friend is getting his grandfather's 32 Chevy going after a 50 year nap. The motor was gone through about 60 years ago but to what extent we don't really know. We found no compression on number one when looking for TDC. The bottom end and pan were clean and he got it started but it quickly over heated. I suggested Evaporust as a cooling system cleaning agent which he used. He did have a fan blowing across the radiator. He ran it a little more and had water in his oil which was new. I check the compression and he had zero on one and two and a normal used motor 60 or so on the rest. So we pulled the head had it magnafluxed and pressure tested and it was fine but needed about .014 taken off to make it flat. No obvious flaws on the old gasket. Head in place with a new gasket and so far no water in the oil and better compression on all cylinders. He did use a stop leak type product recommended by the machine shop.
My question is after all that long winded explanation is could the Evaporust opened up something in the block or head causing the water in the oil?
thanks
Dave
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I believe the bushings are the wonderful pot metal material that can swell with time. atf and acetone would work, I used pb blaster.
Did you check out the vcca post?
Dave
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This thread may help, I did not read it through. I think if new bushings are needed they have been making them.
https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/428973/1929-cross-shaft-lubrication.htm
Dave
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I had the same problem with my 29. I used pb blaster on the cross shafts and worked them back and forth until free then used heavier oil. I had to replace all of the clevis pins and the two brake return springs. There are some discussions on the VCCA forum where they had to take apart the pivot bushing holders and replace the bushings. I don't think I will have to go that far.
good luck
Dave
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The catalogue started at 24 so no help. The 24 Remy numbers are 950 A and 950 B.
I don't think it is Chevrolet but I have been surprised before.
Dave
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Here is the parts breakdown picture with the 24 generator on the left and the 23 on the right. I have a 24 and the end of the generator drives the distributor and oil pump. It looks like on the 23 is just the distributor. I don't see any chains in the picture. My early Delco-Remy book is in the shop so next time down I will look for the short number for the 23.
Dave
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Very nice show and venue. A good mix of unrestored, restored and beautiful early cars. Thanks to Greg for putting it together!
I will attempt to post some pictures.
Dave
1908 Lozier
1914 American 'Underslung'
1931 Buick and 1932 Essex
1941 Cadillac
1941 Packard with Rollson body
1930 Ford Model A cabriolet
1930 Ford Model A coupe
1930 Ford Model A roadster
1947 Pontiac
1929 Studebaker Commander (unrestored)
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I think the law was changed and the years adjusted. The last one I did would have gone through at the office but I did not have a death certificate for the gentleman that signed the title. I was surprised because they said when you call for the inspection you need to be ready. When I called for the check the officer was there in 5 minutes. He spent a few minutes looking it over and then called the numbers in and I was good to go.
Dave
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If he doesn't use the title they will most likely will require an inspection. If the paperwork is solid they may just process it at the dmv. I haven't been that lucky.
1962 is the cutoff for no title and 63-85 it is title optional in Georgia.
Dave
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Georgia is not a title state for older vehicles. Seems like 62 and back no title, 63-85 title optional.
Is the title in your name? Vehicles were often registered the year they were sold.
If you have a bill of sale and a title you should have no problem with the Georgia DMV. They usually have an officer come by and inspect the vehicle id numbers and verify they match the paperwork. So the car will need to be here in Georgia. The number plate should be firmly/riveted in place. I usually make a plate, stamp the number and rivet where it doesn't show. Seems to satisfy the officer where the light plate nailed to the floor would not. A stamped engine number also works.
Dave
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Another six cylinder not mentioned is a 2001 or so Volvo S80 twin turbo T 6.
Dave
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Very hard to believe but if the exec was at or near the top perhaps they were able to get the tech center to build one from parts from Warehousing and Distribution.
Dave
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Maybe old convertibles remind people of past fun and old trucks remind them of past work?
Dave
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My daughter has been on our Hagerty policy for a few years and she will be turning 20 in September.
Dave
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On 5/6/2023 at 10:20 AM, 60FlatTop said:
I would hunt this guy down if I was going to farm out a job.
It took a while to figure out what he was saying. It is Pro Auto Custom Interiors by Steve Holcomb in Knoxville, TN.
Dave
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I found a lot of threads about this when tracking down the same problem in my 31 Buick. I repaired a lot of small problems which when corrected improved performance. Heat riser tubes had small holes, heat riser blocked off at carb instead of valve, intake gasket improperly installed causing vacuum leak on one runner, fuel line from pump to carb getting very hot so it was wrapped with insulation, fuel pump rebuilt, and finally the carb gone through a couple of times. Many corrections were made at the same time so I don't know what the final fix was but it is running great now.
One more was using non ethanol fuel.
Dave
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Welcome and congratulations on the 40. In many cases the wire coming out of the steering column is the horn ground wire which sounds the horn when the button is pressed. I would try and find an owners guide and shop manual as soon as you can. The 1942 shop manual is also very helpful for past models.
Dave
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Very nice, looks like fun.
Dave
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When Delco-Remy made Delco batteries they were great. I still buy them when available and have had good service.
Dave
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In a write up on doing a 31 Chevy regulator the author decided to use his mig welder in place of the rivets. When the time comes I probably will do the same.
Dave
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1914 American 'Underslung'
1931 Buick and 1932 Essex
1941 Cadillac
1941 Packard with Rollson body
Another Model A trip adventure starts soon
in General Discussion
Posted
It sounds like fun and I will enjoy following along.
Dave