R.White

I will find out tomorrow if everything has gone together O.K... I wouldn't be surprised if they have to condemn the covers because they are rather hard but at least I have found someone who knows how to handle the wheels. The premisses is impressive and looks like a purpose built facility. while I was there an HGV was unloading lorry tires at a loading bay. They were easily rolled out of the back of the waggon into the building. The place is properly geared up for commercial but I was treated just the same as any other customer and not made to feel as if I was being a nuisance. Very nice people. Ray.

Better news this afternoon. I found a truck tyre fitter locally who could see no problem with what I wanted to do so I have left two wheels and new tubes with him. He says they are familiar with the split locating ring system and in fact some commercials still use it! I asked if the covers would be serviceable and he agreed with me that all things considered they would be fine. I could buy cheap tyres but if I wanted to replace the same Dunlop 450/475 x 21 tyres they would be £250 each (including VAT) !!! The cost of swapping over the two tubes will be £50. and I should be able to pick them up tomorrow. Ray.

Would that be with her in the car??

Yes Mike, but even if I were to shell out for new tyres I would still need them fitted by someone with a cage. I hate to think how much a truck tyre centre would charge. When you get into commercial vehicle prices the prices kick in at a higher level. Having read so many horror stories on these locking rings I can't see me attempting it at home. As it happens, my first job was in a tyre centre and there I learned not to ignore safety warnings from guys who had done it all their lives. All I wanted to do was change the tubes with different valves making it easier to inflate. What I should do about it I am not sure. I am not even sure I want a car with this kind of problem.? Ray.

The tyre centre guy is right about one thing. These tyres may have plenty of tread on them but they are very old and show signs of perishing on the side wall. With the wheel on the floor I tried to remove the ring but the cover is too stiff to compress enough. I tried standing on the sidewall and it moved a bit but just not enough to get the ring out. From what I have been told if this compression was done on a machine it could damage the sidewall beyond repair. These 21" tyres don't come cheap but if I want to be safe perhaps I need to replace them all? Beginning to wish I had left well alone.

I am in a spot of trouble with these wheels. Having shelled out £150 for new inner tubes and bent valves, I tried to remove the tyres with tyre levers but it was too much for me so I went to our local independent tyre centre (tire center) . When I showed the old guy there the 21" disc wheels he said they wouldn't fit on his machine. He also said that even if they could fit, his firm would not do the work. The reason given was that they were dangerous and needed to be done in a cage. The only people who had that sort of kit would be a Truck tyre outfit. To add insult to injury I was informed that the truck people would probably refuse to change the tubes because the 'cover' was perished around the side wall. Apparently, there is a risk that the machine used to remove the tyre could damage the side wall so I would need to buy all new tyres. I tried to explain that these disc wheels have a "split ring" rather than a "split rim" and were not the infamous "widow maker" that Ford trucks used to fit but the old fella was having none of it. He was adamant the law was that a cage must be used. The only option if I can't find a truck place todo the job is either leave it as is (unsatisfactory) or sell the car. with the inner tubes thrown in. I have taken a fair bit from this car but this may be the last straw. Ray.

The interior looks like original leather to me. If it were mine I would get a leather upholstery expert to sympathetically restore it. They can work wonders from what I have seen. One thing you might want to do is source a replacement exhaust manifold. The pipe would originally be held on by a large coarse threaded nut. The nuts are readily available but you may need to hunt for a manifold. They sometimes appear on eBay. It would be a good idea to find the chassis number and then you could easily trace the exact date of construction.

M Wilson. The point about the car having possibly been revived at some time in the past is well made. The pleated upholstery is indeed telling. I stand corrected about the polarity but nothing should be taken for granted after all these years and only an investigation of the wiring can be relied on. I did in fact edit out my error regarding a magneto. An easy mistake as virtually all our cars of this period were so equipped. Bearing in mind your location, I would look closely at the engine to see if there are any cracks. Frost damage to these old iron castings is surprisingly common.

I love the old top. It has oodles of character. I am also fascinated by the return at the front and the way that it is fastened up. Is it supposed to hang down when the car is parked in direct sunlight to protect the interior? I notice your car has period dampers fitted. I assume these to be an after market extra but I am not well up on these early cars enough to be sure. Interestingly, your car has no scuttle side lights so I presume it to be a standard model but again I don't know if the early cars had any. The head lights look original to me. I wonder if they were originally nickel plated and the plating has worn off over time exposing the brass.? This really is a little gem. It would be great to see photos under the hood. Say, taken from both sides.

Thanks Keiser 31. Appreciated. Ray.

Nearchoc. If you think I have given bad information then say what you mean.

My car is a 1926 build but classed as a '27 series 116. It came with a bronze emblem. Would it be right for my car? I am not entirely sure it is original to my car as the radiator and shell is a later replacement. I fitted a glazed emblem simply because I preferred it. I don't have a problem with non original parts so long as the originals are retained and can be easily returned if required. I would like to know if a bronze emblem would be correct or is it too close to call? Ray.

First may I say you have a wonderful time warp car. There will be a lot of envious guys reading this. I am surprised this historically important vehicle has not been snapped up by a museum. Needless to say you will appreciate it's originality.. 1) It will be positive ground. As you correctly say the electrics are 12 volt. Dodge Brothers were early pioneers with 12 volts and the car is fitted with a chain driven starter/generator unit which gives silent starting and was an advanced feature in it's day. 2)You will find the vacuum pump under the hood. It is probably bolted to the cylinder head. This tank is what many cars used as a petrol pump and works by sucking fuel from the tank an the back of the car by means of a vacuum created by the induction of the engine taken from the inlet manifold to which the carb is bolted. The carb is supplied from the tank by gravity feed .The vacuum tank in your car is possibly by Stewart Warner. There is some useful information posted recently on this forum. 3)When you eventually start the car you should set the advance/retard lever fully retarded. As a safety precaution, always set the ignition to "retard" (that is with the lever on the steering wheel in the down position) if you need to use the crank handle. Failure to observe this procedure could result in a kick back and potentially a broken wrist. 4)Leave the top until you have heard from 'Trimacar' on this forum. He is a professional trimer with a lot of experience with this type of top. My car is later (1926) but there are many similarities. My advice would be to change the engine oil with SAE straight 30 before trying to start the engine. Don't use synthetic detergent oil on the engine until it has been cleaned out or it will lift huge quantities of silt and carry it to the bearings. There is no drain plug so you will need to disconnect a pipe to the oil pump. Withdrawing the filter may give you an idea if the pan is full of silt. These engines have a splash feed (non pressurised) oil system. There is no "dip" stick instead there is a rod with a float attached which moves in a hole in the block. You are a very, very luck chap to land this car. All I can suggest is you acquire a mechanics workshop manual and a copy of "The book of Information" for your year. Spares and literature are available from Myers Early Parts and Romar. I am almost as excited about your car as if I had found it myself!! Ask any questions you like. Ray.

I think the oil companies are their own worst enemy when it comes to making things over complicated. The science may be over the heads of the general public in which case a simple user guide should be available. As far as I am concerned, EP gear oil is unsuitable in running gear which contains yellow metals. The lay shaft bushings on my '26 transmission are brass (or bronze?) and are prone to wear even without corrosive chemicals so I would suggest one should probably take care to read the label before using. Fortunately, the bushings referred to can be replaced with the gearbox in situ when they become worn. Ray.

When choosing a gear oil for cars of this era which use brass/bronze bearing and bushings do not use EP oil. "Every one is entitled to their opinion... Everyone is entitled to my opinion" - R.White.

You guys deserve a break! (sorry, pun not intended)

This coloured chart shows comparative viscosities. http://www.tribology-abc.com/abc/viscosity.htm#SAE306

I have been using steam cylinder oil for several years (largely because I bought a large container of the stuff and it doesn't get changed very often.!!) It has an ISO 3348 rating for industrial oils of 680 which equates to SAE 140 (J306 gear oils). This is what I use in my transmission. The rear axle has a similar (but unknown) gear oil but as it is quiet I have left well alone. To be honest, there have been occasions when, despite rebuilding the gearbox, I have felt that a higher viscosity oil would be better because the gear change is somewhat slower than I would like. These gearboxes are designed in such a way that double de clutching has no beneficial effect so a heavier oil would allow the gear rotation to decelerate more quickly therefore I would be inclined to go with the LUB 164 which is a 1500 w (equivalent to SAE 250). In the case of the '26 transmission, the noisy 1st and 2nd gears may also be quietened down - which would be no bad thing. My only reservation with using such a heavy gear oil is the drag element. Anything that saps the meagre performance of the car must be considered detrimental. Ray.

I have a length of flexible aluminium tubing which I connect up to the exhaust pipe and route to the outside so I can have the engine running in the garage. works a treat. Ray.

That looks just fine Mike. Unfortunately, three of my tubes have the standard short rubber valves so too short to be bent. I will soon receive the new tubes which do have long valves but they are detachable so the tyre expert guy thought it would be better to replace them with angled valves as shown in the photo. The worry I have is that if you look at one of my correct tubes (photo) the plain part of the valve exits the rim so do I fit the collar of the new valve under the rim or above? If below, the shoulder of the valve/tube will not sit snugly against the underside of the rim. If I try fitting the valve extension above the rim there might not be enough sticking out to join on to. I suppose I will have to experiment when the tubes arrive. If the original valves have been included I can bend them like you have done with yours. Thanks for posting the photos. Ray.

I am committed to the tubes that I have paid for now. Being 820 x 120 mm, originally for beaded edge tyres, they are very expensive but the chap at Vintage Tyres (located at the National Motor Museum in Beaulieu) has assured me that they will be O.K. I know my luck. When I try to fit them, I will find a problem.. Ray.

Thanks Mike. More photos would help. I have now ordered three new tubes (at considerable expense) and can only hope they will work with my rims. If you look at the photo I took of one of my two correct tube/ tyres and compare it to the photo of the new tube with angled valve sat in a tyre, can you see if there is likely to be a problem fitting the rim? If the valve extension sits under the rim the tube doesn't lay flush with the inside surface. If the valve extension needs to be attached to the outside of the rim the valve may not be long enough to accept the angled extension. Ray.

The fact is that even independent tyre fitters (you can forget the chains) very rarely handle an inner tube these days. There is also no profit in repairing a tube if they can sell you a new one.! My local outfit are helpful enough when dealing with modern tyres but when it comes to an old car they are just not used to our ways. The practices of old have no place in a commercial facility these days. Even if it is not strictly illegal to replace a valve in an inner tube, the guys doing the work will just say it is so you go away. As to the major proposed changes to the rules by the authorities; we have a last ditch hope of side stepping their worst effects through the efforts of the FBHVC - the Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs - who are listened to by the ' All Party Parliamentary Committee" which examines the effects of legislation on our hobby and the businesses which it supports. We are hopeful that sensible exemptions can be agreed. I have spoken recently to the owner of the 'Suffolk Sports Cars Company' who tells me that they (and other producers and kit car firms) are appealing the changes and are quite hopeful of a good result. The replica 1930s Jaguar SS100 they produce is based on the the JAGUAR XJ6 saloon of the 1980s so has a fully refurbished but "old" XK engine which would never pass today's exhaust emissions tests. The cars can be bought ready assembled or in a home build kit form (which I am keen on). I have suggested that if they are unsuccessful in their appeal then perhaps they might like to consider LPG as a fuel not tested for emissions. They had not thought of this and didn't realise that an open loop system could be used with twin carburettors. I think the solutions are usually there if you look for them. Ray.

Rant as much as you like, Bob. This is my thread and, as you know, I like a diversion now and then. There are a lot of people here who think leaving the E.U. will shake off some of the chains but I'm not so sure. As I write this, our Parliament is carbon copying every single bit of red tape that has ever come out of Brussels and transferring it into British law. We will end up with Brexit In name only. There is even a name for it: "Brexino". We are even adopting the new M.O.T. standards as decided by the E.U. This means that any car over 30 years old will be deemed a VHI (vehicle of historic interest) and will be exempt from the road worthiness test...unless it has been "substantially modified" in the past 30 years...in which case it will have to not only take the test but meet all the latest exhaust emission standards...which, of course, older engines cannot meet. Take a look at some of the brilliant cars which could become extinct.http://www.suffolksportscars.com Ray.

If you scratch the surface of almost any of the new regulations you will find the letters "E.U." I have no idea whether or not the U.K. will fly or die outside the E.U. but hopefully we will see an end to suffocating legislation. If we don't, then what would have been the point of Brexit? The plan now is to fit a 820 x120 mm beaded edge tube (as shown in the middle photo). I am told this will work. Ray.