farrellg

Cab is composite. However, doors are steel and most cab is steel with exception of roof and rear of seat reinforcement. I don't have a good picture, but here is what I had on the phone.

Here is a pdf of the build card. 1930 Dodge U133 Build Card.PDF

Just an update. Also got my build card for the 1930 U133. Engine serial number matches build card. Shows the metric speedo and that the truck was shipped to Istanbul, Turkey and not France as we had been told. Funny how stories get morfed over time. However, the build card has hand writter notes over the typed Istanbul, Turkey that say Syracuse, NY. Dealer in Turkey was Auto Tire & Tractor Company. Shows vehicle was shipped as a chassis which is in line with what we believed. Build date was 1/15/1930. Build card also shows the steel wheels.

Just a little update. Got my build card from Chrysler Historical today. Truck was built 6/5/1930 and shipped to Rochester, NY. Dealer was E. J. Horton Inc. Both motor and key numbers match the build sheet. Although my truck has a pickup type box today, build card shows a 7' stake body. Have to decide which way to take this one on the restoration. But very happy all the numbers match. 1931 Dodge Express U124 Build Card.PDF

Very close to my 31. In 31 the bed was not attached to the cab on my truck. More like a modern pickup with a bit of separation. But you can see the use of the express term.

Thanks. Hopefully we will be able to find a set of axles, hubs and brake parts. I am hoping somone out there has a set.

We have been unable to locate the rear axle shafts, hubs and brakes for this car. We do have the parts books, so we have a good idea what we are looking for. One thing that would really help would be some pictures. If any one has some photos they would be willing to post for the 1916-1917 Roadster axle shafts, it would be appreciated. Certainly would help with id'ing one outside the car. Thanks.

That may work, but agree, may be a bit harsh in the skin. I found if not dry, wipe off pretty good with rubbing alcohol.

This one was a unique case. The restoration on this truck was started in the 1980's by someone else. The frame had been blasted and painted with PPG and then was stored in a dry shop for almost 30 years. There was absolutly no peeling or issues with the paint except on the inside frame where some water had collected from a leak in the roof. An area about 5 x 8". What I did was use a scaler to remove the the rust there. I then scuffed the frame with a grey scotch pad. Used the KBS cleaner and etch on the bare spots here and there. The base was in good enough shape that I felt more damage would be done by blasting it again just to remove a solid and issue free base. So elected to go this topping route. I discussed with the folks from KBS a couple of times. The area I hit with the scaler was taken to bare shinny metal. The front end and springs I painted with KBS, were never painted 20 years ago, so I did blast them before paint. Just blew them off, wiped them down with some alcohol and painted. The stuff goes on great with a foam bush, but the brushes dont last long. The bristle brushes work best in my opinion, but you have to pickup a bristle now and then. Overall, I really liked the stuff. Wear long sleeves. I didnt for the first coat and people are still telling me my arms have grease on them. One more item, I did top coat it with their UV stable top coat. So overall, three coats. 2 coats of the rust seal and one of the black top.

Figured I would post some pictures of the start of assembly of my 31 U124 Express. Here are photos of the newly painted frame. I decided to use KBS frame black with black UV stable top coat. Turned out pretty good I think. Don't get it on you, they aren't kidding when they say it has to wear off. I will post progress, as progress is made.

A very good friend of mine purchased the roadster. I made the trip out to Ohio to help retrieve the car. Virginia was a great host and we were glad to help out. The Car is in good hands and will be restored right. He is currently inventorying the car to see what is missing. The rear axles were not in the car and are being searched for. I am sure there are some other parts that will be needed. Right now he knows he will need drivers front fender, driver door, distributor cap and rotor, brake and carb linkages and parking brake handle. The new owner is setting up and account to the forum and I am sure will contribute. He is interested in linking up with any other 1916 Roadster owners. -George

Thanks. This info really helps. I know exactly the type of material, the use it here in the Mennonite community to roof and side their buggies. Comes smooth and with a texture. I am not sure what it is called today, but I think that is the path I am going to go.

Ok, I have discovered some of the G44 mystery today in trying to determine the true as delivered frame length. I crawled under in the beautiful weather today during lunch with a wire brush and began a more detailed check of the frame. With the numbers on the build card all checking out. There had to be an explaination why the 165" frame was now a 185". Alas, I found a 20" piece that has been added in the middle of the frame. Boy, I wish I could weld like that. It is not noticable unless you hit it with the wire brush. One of the best weld jobs I have ever seen. Certainly explains the 165 .vs. 185. However, the addition is behind the rivited frame reinforcement piece that my truck has. Best picture of this reinforcemet is in the Crestline Dodge Trucks book at the top right of page 58. Picture shows a G44 cowl/windscreen frame and if you look along the frame there is a reinforceme rivited to the frame that runs about 5' between where the cab would be and the rear spring mount. This reinforcement is riveted to the frame. I am not sure I find this brace in the part book unless it is the Frame Front Intermediate Cross Member Brace. In the parts book, it calls for 2 of these. There is also a note for rivets to the reinforcement for Frame front intermediate cross member. As a side note, the frame cross member behind the cab is appears to be exactly the same as this intermediate cross member. Although the parts book looks like there are two different part numbers. I cant believe that there would be a factory modification to lenghten a frame like that. However, why would the reinforcement plates be used if they didnt? Interesting thoughts to ponder.

Yea, that sound like it. Thanks. Very close to the top material. The original I have appears to be smooth. Here are two pages from the 31and 32 instruction guide. I know it is a rendition, but appears smooth here also. I assume they may have same material as you describe in smooth. I have the split seat springs for one of my trucks. The other was replaced with a one piece. I am going to have the split seat springs made up for the other two. 31 is the one with 1/2 seat removed.

Seems I cant post a video to the forum. I will have to figure out if I can upload it elsewhere. Just about have the crushed headlight bucket back into shape. 90% there. Need to work on getting it perfectly round to accept the glass and ring. Love bumping metal.

Here is a .pdf of my replacement plate, picture is not much better. Plate is 3 1/2 x 5 inches. Here is what the plate says if you cant see it clearly. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 3/4 TON CAUTION TRUCK OVER LOADING OR OVER SPEEDING WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY SPEED 25 MILES PER HOUR MAXIMUM ALLOWABLE FREIGHT LOAD CAPACITY 1500 LBS ALLOWABLE FOR WEIGHT OF BODY, FUEL, AND WATER 778 LBS WEIGHT OF CHASSIS WITH SHROUD, WINDSHIELD, FENDERS, TOOLS, AND SPARE RIM 2202 LBS TOTAL WEIGHT OF CHASSIS, BODY, AND LOAD NOT TO EXCEED 4480 LBS DODGE BROTHERS, INC. DETROIT. U.S.A. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Dash Data Plate Scan 0513.PDF

Unfortunately, none of my 3 trucks had toe board plates. They may have been there originally, but with years of use, they did not survive. I would love to have a view of what they would have looked like for 30, 31 and 32 trucks. I will try and scan tonight. I have a good scanner and copier.

I have the same dash plate for my 31 express as pictured. I also have an actual plate. Problem is, I cannot be 100% sure it is the right one. My original was beyond being able to determine what was written on it. I found a replacement, holes match up (4, one in each corner) and will use it for my restoration. First picture is a replacement tag I purchased. Second is my original tag, other than size, not much help.

Does anyone have anything that identifies the seat material for the the 30, 31 and 32 trucks? From the instruction guides, the material appears to be smooth and leather like. But I have yet to find anything that specifically identifies it. Any help appreciated. Inspecting the 3 original seats I have for all 3 trucks, most appear to have been recovered in various materials. However, I do have one set that appears to be mostly original and appears to be a black leather. With 80 years of drying out and use, very hard to tell.

Had a really good day yesterday. Wish we could post videos. Opened up the BB1 carb and cleaned it up. I believe it was rebuild some time before the truck was parked. Aside from the accelerator pump being removed an capped with epoxy, it looked pretty good. I made a new gasket and threw it back on. Replaced the plug wires and rigged up my engine test stand fuel tank on the from fender. The old girl started right up. Was even able to take it for a spin around the yard. Engine is real strong. Have a lot of work to do, but at least it is running as is.

The 1931 2 & 3 Ton Parts Book calls for Zenith or Stromberg and references these from the D & E prefixed serial numbers. So I think these are out of play. The Master Parts Book lists the part number for the G44 as (exp only) 558049. I dont see any other trucks with this carb part number. There is no manufacturer listed but believe they only list when it changes so it would be Zenith. Late 3 ton 185 lists as 532358, again no manufacturer like other lines, but from 3 Ton book, this is Zenith. Having said all this, the 2/3 Ton Instruction guide lists Detroit Lubricator or Zenith. The G44 Instruction manual list Carter and the picture is clearly a DRT/RT style and not a BB1. I believe the carb on this truck now is incorrect. However, I need some advice to find what DRT/RT style Carter Carb would have the same stud spacing as the BB1.

Here are photos of my engine and carb from the instruction book. Picture 1 & 2 are from the G44 instruction guide which shows the carter DR/RT style carb. The 3rd picture is from the 2 & 3 ton instruction guide with the BB1 carb. Right now, the BB1 is what is on my truck. It may be right based on this strange config. The parts manual is not much help as there is just a part number and that it was Carter. One strange thing on the BB1 installed, looks like the accelerator pump was removed and the whole in the top half of case was filled in with epoxy. This truck does have a mechanical AC-B fuel pump but I do think the accelerator pump should be there if the BB1 is correct. Yahoo- the joy of sorting this out.

Had a great trip to Carlisle and was able to find the head light lens I needed for the G44. And very reasonable too. Now I am working on the carb. The G44 instruction manual shows a carb that looks like a DRT08. However, I have several DRT and RT 08's but the mounting holes on the 6 cylinder are wider. The carb that came on the Truck is a BB1, but I don't think that was right. Is there a DRT/RT cab with the same mounting spacing as the BB1 ?

Not sure this applies, but in my 1932 G44 instruction guide, it states to check the function of the filter remove the out pipe and check the flow. Having a valve seems much easier.