farrellg

My tank says Oil-Vac Kokomo Ind. I am told this is a Kingston. I believe the wiper was tee'ed off the fuel pump line. Near the fuel pump somewhere.

Here is the oil vac oil pump on my 1931 u124. I believe the Zerk does not belong. I believe this is where the vacuum line for the fuel pump would have gone. But I would love to see an original picture of how the line was run.

Here are a couple pictures of the oil vac I have on the 1931 U124. Although I thought the 1930 U133 was the same, it. Is not. The 1930 has something different. Last photo. May be a Stewart. The 1931 gets its vacuum from the oil pump.

Bob, Here is a photo of where the serial number is on my 1931 3/4 ton express. This is driver side, front spring. Starts around the rivet. It is in the same location on both my 30 and 31 Trucks. It was hard to find even though I knew where it was. I used a small hand wire brush and some wd40. Care must be taken to raise as if you sand or sand blast this area you could destroy the number. Not exactly sure if you 29 would be in the same place, but thought this photo might help.

Not sure if you found it, but your frame serial number should be located on the frame, drivers side, just behind the front spring mount. -George

I have an instruction manual for a 1929 and 1930 U series 3/4 and 1 Ton Truck respectively. According to the instructions, the pedal stop screw is used for pedal clutch adjustment. The set screws on the shaft have no connection with free movement of the clutch pedal and are only provided for adjustment of the pedal clearance at the toe board. Not sure if this applies for your particular situation, but both my Trucks are D2XXXXX serial numbers.

Wyobob, Nice find. I have a 1931 3/4 Ton we are currently restoring. I would love to get some detailed photos of the pickup box you have as we are recreating the one for my truck. I have most of the steel parts, but really interested in the cross members and detail from the outside of the box along the frame. -George

Stakeside, I see this is an old post, but I have an instruction manual for a 1929 and 1930 U series 3/4 and 1 Ton respectively. According to the instructions, the pedal stop screw is used for pedal clutch adjustment. The set screws on the shaft have no connection with free movement of the clutch pedal and are only provided for adjustment of the pedal clearance at the toe board. If you like, send me your email and I can send you some .pdfs of the clutch section. - George

Pete, thanks. This was one of those moments where memory is playing tricks on me. Have put many of these on other vehicles. Just vague memory of something strange on these motors. Makes sense.

Does anyone know on the Plymouth 175.4 four cylinder which way the thermostat goes in? I feel stupid, but somewhere I thought I read water flow on some of the early motors is reversed. On the 175.4, thermostat is in the head under upper connection to radiator. I don't have an original original thermostat. The one I have is a modern type replacement. It seems to fit better slug down. But before I fire things up thought I had better ask.

Well, not sure I figured out. More like learned more and decided to leave alone. :-)

Well, not sure I figured out. More like learned more and decided to leave alone. :-)

Couple more photos.

Finally got around to the wheels again. Here are some pictures. They are not welded. What I thought is just a chamfer in the pressed brake drum. What is still puzzling me though is that I cannot find a seam where the drum and hub come together. I believe it is where the drum is pressed to the hub. Hovever, one cannot find a seam there let alone get a feeler gauge in the seam. The wheels are tight, I might just leave enough alone.

Jason, you don't have any exploded views of the wooden wheel hubs ?

Last weekend got ready to blast the wheels on my 1931 u124 Express pickup. They are 20" wood spoke. I assumed that once I removed the hub bolts, the brake drum could be removed like on my 1930 with steel wheels. How ever, the brake drum appears to be welded to a hub. I did a little gentle tapping a prying with no success. I dont want to dis-assemble the outer hub and spokes, just the brake drum for cleaning and paint. Can someone tell me the proper way to do this? Thanks.

Just for reference, the holes in horn and shackle range individually from ,750 to .850. Give or take a bit. I think if I ream round, will end up around .875 to .900.

Here are photos of the frame horns and front rear shackle. The springs themselves, also pictured, we're bushed. How ever, the shackle and frame horn were not according to what I see and my truck parts book.

I don't think the frame horns and shackle plates were bushed. Only the spring and rear frame mount. The are not that out of round. But bad enough to require fixing. I may be able to bush them, however, will be very thin. I may be able to ream them round with out removing the horns.

Am looking for some help and advice on repairing the spring bolt mounting holes. I am making new bushings for the spring and upper front/rear mount and those will be fine. However, the holes in the front frame horn are egg shaped as well as the holes in the spring shackles. Looking for input on how others may have addressed this problem. Thanks.

If someone has one of these air cleaners on their car or truck. I would love additional pictures and dimensions. Having never seen one In real life, I would love to see the piece / parts.

Here is a link to one in the Universal Vintage Tire Catalog page 34. See if this helps. https://www.universaltire.com/catalog.html There are other suppliers, but I knew where this one was :-).

The tires on my 1930 1 ton and 1931 3/4 ton are all 20". I used Vintage Tire in Hershey PA. They were extremely helpful. Gave me options based on old tire sizes converted to what was available. They also have the tread patterns online. Hope that helps.

In the parts manual it shows the air cleaner as part number 530723. However, no mention of manufacturer.

Jason, Honestly, no idea. All I have is the picture from the instruction book.