AHa

issued July, 1915 and in fair to poor condition but is still a valuable tool for any owners. Make offer

I took this speedometer out of my car years ago because the odometer wasn't working. The dial is perfect. Offers please.

I'm wondering if somebody might recognize this motor and transmission. The car was on the Hershey show field around 2006. It appears to be centrifugal clutch driven. Can anybody confirm and was centrifugal clutch a thing back then? Thanx, A

John McAlpins 1917 model 48 has this part.

Especially considering what you paid for it! If I remember you got it off ebay. I believe they'll make it good.

I say it is number 26: Don't let the car set idle in cold weather for any length of time. Forty years certainly qualifies but this is the owner's manual talking. No judgment from me!

Any chance you would post a picture of how it is mounted for us wonderers?

sounds like functional obsolescence, it confirms what JV has been saying, they never expected this car to last more than a few years

I have one of these also though mine is not the rare 3 loop kind. Mine came to me in a box of studebaker parts so I wonder if it is studebaker.

I would love to see some before pictures as well and maybe a bit of the story. Am I correct in assuming this is your grandfather's car and did it come from your great grandfather's dealership? Has it been in your family all this time or was it sold off only to be repurchased by you? I suspect you have an awesome car with an even more awesome story to go with it. Can you bring yourself to share it with us?

OK, the car is a 1911 Buick and has the round radiator badge. After I misplaced mine I looked for several years for a replacement without finding anything. If I take a chance and take the radiator out of the shell, there is a chance I won't get it back in and replacement cost is $6500. These are all good suggestions. Which one do I trust?

When I started the restoration of my "basket case" there was no radiator badge. A friend later found one at Hershey for me but when I moved it was put in a box and lost. The car has been restored for several years now and just today I found the radiator badge. The question now is , how to attach it to the shell? It was originally soldered onto the shell but I don't like the idea of stripping the shell down, taking the radiator out of the shell, soldering the badge on, then reversing the process. Thoughts?

One more thing, the perch is worn on the bottom. Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but don't the weight of the car rest on the top? And accordingly, shouldn't the wear be at the top of the perch. And another thing, the only way to lubricate this joint is to drill a hole down the center of the shackle bolt with an outlet for the grease to come out inside the spring eye. What lubricates the perch? So many questions! To your question Al, metallurgy is light years ahead of where it was in the early years. It still amazes me that they used aluminum for crankcases but by and large, they didn't know how to cast complex shapes in steel or cast iron. This is why most early cars had single cylinders or cast in pairs. Aluminum would flow but it had lots of impurities in it, which made it brittle. The engineers knew what they had to work with and compensated accordingly.

What I have learned, right or wrong, is that the engineering of that age is lost to time. They engineered things based on the knowledge they had at the time and the materials they had to work with. My theory is the original shackle bolt of the Mitchel was softer than the perch. The engineers knew what they had to work with. Things were changing rapidly back then though and it is likely the shackle bolt broke at some point along the way. When a new bolt was installed, they used a bolt that was harder than the perch, probably because the bolt failed and the thought was to use a bolt that wouldn't fail. The idea that the bolt was designed to fail was lost to time. It is very difficult to lubricate these type fittings. The weight of the car continually presses out the grease from the very area that needs lubrication and you don't want to wear out the spring, which is a much more expensive part than the bolt.. On modern cars, springs have brass or nylon bushings that are designed to wear out before the perch, shackle, or bolt. In this principal, the bushing is sacrificed. With cars going faster and more traffic, the bushing was the most sensible to allow to wear.

O.K. Maybe I'm wrong, but I think this is what happens when the bolt is harder than the spring perch. You see, the thing is, the shackle bolt was supposed to wear, not the spring perch, so even if the shackle bolt is not lubricated, the bolt is sacrificed. In this case, the shackle bolt was harder than the spring perch and it wore out the spring perch. That's my two cents.

Al, I'm glad he reached out to you. Turns out my advice was wrong and I'm glad to be set straight in this public setting. I guess another option would be to send your main leafs to Witmer coach to have your springs eyes reformed. You could also contact Woodlyn Coach in Millersburg Ohio, 330-674-9124. Their spring guy may have been the guy that originally made your springs.I still think reforming the eye is your best option.

Great ring and pinion and a good price!

Al, You would need to find somebody to confirm, but I believe you could get someone to heat the spring eye with a rose bud while you drive a 1/2" rod through. By allowing the eye to cool back down naturally, it shouldn't effect the tempering. I still believe your best option is reforming.

Again, have you totally ruled out just taking the main leafs to a blacksmith to have the eyes reformed? This is your best and easiest choice. Even in your small town there should be an accomplished black smith.

Chevrolet disc wheels found their way onto a lot of old cars as the wood rotted out of the original wood wheels and the larger tire sizes became no longer available. Chevrolets had metal skinned wood bodies which rotted quickly when left out in the weather making wheels available for other cars. It is interesting to note how form followed function through the years with our old cars.

Hey there, can anybody identify this transmission case? Part number is 100134.

The Ford TT Truck uses a brass worm gear. You could check with the T suppliers as to what is recommended but I suspect it is the 600W steam cylinder oil.

I will give you my two cents on the trans lube. Use the 600W steam oil the model T suppliers sell. It is the right viscosity to help your car shift easily. Most modern oils are not.

Unknown NOS Ring and Pinion gear. 48 tooth ring gear/13 tooth pinion gear, 6" ID 10.5 OD Although I believe this to be for a Studebaker, I found another ring gear in these parts that is adaptable to my 1911 Buick with a little taken out of the center and a little off the outside so it is completely adaptable to your needs if it would fit. If you're in need or want a spare at a good price, take a hard look. These aren't cheap. Asking $1400

Here is a NOS ring and pinion gear, 48/13, 6"ID, 10.5" OD. I just found a set for a Pierce on this site. The guy says one supplier charges $2200 for these and has a six month wait time. His asking price is $1400 for a similar ring and pinion, which seems very reasonable and is a $600 savings with no wait time, so I'll start there. If anybody is interested, send me an offer. I'm not in the business of selling parts and its difficult for me to asses value. On the cars I have, when I find a part, I just buy it. Where are you going to find another? I have no use for this ring and pinion gear and I'd like to get it into the hands of someone who could use it. Thankyou for understanding.