DualQuadDave

If you want to cry about part prices, buy a Mopar. I am restoring a 70 Charger R/T Super Trac Pac and everything costs $1000. The shifter, the shifter handle, the gauge cluster, the wood grain on the dash, etc. You sit in the car and you are surrounded by 20k worth of stuff and it is not near the quality of any first gen Riv. With 65 GS's bringing 40-80k, can you blame me for asking $750 for an NOS emblem? Btw, if you did not know, Ebay screws you for 15-18% of final sale price. I am happy to sell to ROA or HAMB guys cheaper, but realty is, restoring cars is quickly getting out the reach of the regular guy. Sad, but it had to happen eventually. It's not like they are making more old cars and great cars like Riv's are getting rarer by the day. FYI, the guys out of the country are really driving the prices. I cannot tell you how much stuff I have shipped to France, Australia, Japan, Canada, etc. They are buying quality stuff and in bulk.

Hi Roberta, yes, wheels are with me and I am in Cooper City, FL. Just West of Ft. Lauderdale. Where are you located?

Selling a set of five 71-76 Riviera Road Wheels. Chrome is actually pretty decent, the wheels have overspray on them so it is hard to tell from the pics. I would rate them driver+ quality. Wheels are straight and holes are good. Selling for $200obo for the set of 5. Email with any questions. Thanks!

Selling a very nice set of 1965 Buick large brochure, small color/int options brochure, Riviera owners manual, Riviera jack sticker(repro), Color Chart, and NOS Protecto Plate Book that is exceptional. Selling all for $300obo. Thanks!

Exhaust hangers are sold-thanks Zimm!

That car is worth saving. If it was a little closer to me, I would be all over it.

Selling some NOS 1965 Riviera parts that I am not going to use. Feel free to inquire, I also have a ton of trim both inside/outside, gauge clusters, chassis parts, engine parts, etc. Thanks! NOS 1965 Riviera Tri-Shield Trunk Lock Emblem $750 NOS 1965 Riviera Kick Down Switch $250 NOS 1963-65 Riviera Exhaust Hanger(also including a good used one for the other side in price) $60 Prices are obo and I can do a package deal if you need other stuff, just let me know. Thanks! DQD

I would go with the R45S, I run them in every Nailhead I build including my own 64 Dual Quad Riv, unless it is a built engine with corrected/increased compression. Most driving in these cars is low speed with lots of idling and cold starts, the 45S is little hotter as Tom mentioned and will last a bit longer. Overall, your plugs look great. Tom, a note on the NGK's. I love them, they are my favorite plugs by far, however... I checked an NGK in a 401 head I had on the bench to see if indexing was feasible and found out the NGK's do not fully protrude into the chamber as the AC plugs do. I was shocked, but check the thread length against an AC and you will see the difference. They may have a crossreference that is a closer match, but would require some experimentation vs. their recommended replacement.

First off, I want to thank everyone for chiming in with really great advice. I finally tracked down the problem and this is funny. The previous owner thought it would be a great idea to have the master power running into a 30amp circuit breaker... Finally found this thing and removed it. Car runs perfecto now, although I think the compressor is on it's way out-really pulls motor down a lot when engaged. Again, thanks for the help!

BTW, what is that other cloth covered(something like it) wire that is coming off the ignition switch with the pink ign wire? Both are coming off the same post of the switch, but I have not been able to determine what that cloth covered wire goes to.

Jim and John, thanks for hanging in there with me. I have a gut feeling that switch might be it. I have been de-rigging the whole car. I will post a pic of the crazy gauge cluster the previous owner put in. For now, there is nothing aftermarket going into or attached to the factory harness. John, another thought on the vacuum leak idea. Is it possible the vacuum modulator could be leaking and bad? Another issue I have had with this car is trans shifts really early, like 3800-4000rpm at full throttle. I did confirm the kickdown switch was working and adjusted, but still will not upshift above that rpm at full throttle.

Have not determined voltage at coil when it is actually dying. I am going to set up leads to the coil while I am in the car tomorrow. No missing ground straps, just the opposite, I have 5 grounds coming off the motor, which did fix minor charging issue I was having earlier. I had the thought that maybe a wire was getting hot, thereby the up and down voltage as the resistance increases/decreases-just a thought.

We'll, there is no noticeable surge, just a voltage drop and then the miss. Motor runs solid. I just rebuilt carbs, have tried blocking vacuum to track and nothing. It has to do with the overall load on that circuit. I just cannot explain why it is fluctuating with no corresponding surge.

Alt and regulator and new and have been verified good. Alt puts out 150amp. I should have mentioned, battery is charging perfecto while all this is happening. Battery is not losing voltage, but is dropping somewhere in between. I even traced the ign wire back to switch and looks good. Possible switch problem? It says made in Mexico...

Ok, this is one that is driving me nuts. I have been working on a 1965 Riviera and this is a strange problem that me a little stumped. When you put the AC/Lights and put the car in drive, it will stall out. In park, you can watch the voltage at the coil fluctuate almost a full volt up and down with the motor missing correspondingly. With the AC off, problem goes away and voltage is steady. Compressor was tested and supposed to be within spec(not tested by me) as far as draw, but I am suspect. It appears original(as in 1965, does not look rebuilt-still has factory sticker and OK stamp) and I am really suspect of it. Is there anything else that can cause an odd ball type draw like this? I have the factory manual and have been scouring through it and the diagrams trying to find something in between that may have gone bad(circuit breaker/relay, etc.). Please, any help or suggestions would be appreciated!

Addco #ACO-2062 1.25in front sway bar. Summit/Jegs has them. Biggest you can get and work good.

I have run and installed KYB, Monroe, Bilstein and QA1 on 64 & 65 Rivi's and the QA1's are by far the best. Also by far the most expensive...and require light modification of the front lower control arm and I had to make custom tie-bars for them to physically mount properly. Little bit of work, but so worth it. The Bilstein's are the best you can get for a stock replacement, and yes, they are worth the $100 each vs. $16 for a whatever China shock. It really depends on how much and how you drive your car. If it is a garage queen, the $16 shocks are fine. If you actually take your car out and use it, then the Bilsteins are the way to go. I put a set on a customer's 65 Rivi which he drives to work everyday. That, rear solid Panhard bar bushings and the Addco giantor front sway bar make these cars work 1000% percent better. The factory suspension design is great, just needed some minor upgrading.

Selling a freshly rebuilt 1965 401 Buick Nailhead. I build a lot of these and this one is just coming out of the machine shop later next week. Here are the specs: Motor is .030 over New Egge pistons Hastings Moly Rings Resized rods w/ ARP rod bolts Balanced Converted to screw in oil galley plugs(no more press-ins) New Freeze plugs Decked .025 New Melling OEM cam New Engine Pro Timing Chain and gears Good condition timing chain cover(getting hard to find) New water pump Heads fully rebuilt including new iron guides, 3 angle v-job, Teflon seals, new TA springs, and surfaced. Will include stock steel valve covers, valley cover, center sump oil pan, pulleys and accessory brackets of your choice, either 2 groove or 3 groove, both sets available. Stock 4brl intake and 63-66 Riviera Exhaust Manifolds included. Price is $5000, there is no core charge, this is sold outright. The entire bottom end is blueprinted and I can provide clearance specs to the buyer. Also, if you want a different cam, let me know and I can install prior to finishing the build. Head porting and SP400 transmissons are available, as well. Email me with any questions, I always love to talk Buicks! Shipping is not a problem and I can palletize and ship anywhere. Current rates are around $400-600 in the 48 door to door. DualQuadDave 9542709299

Hi Bill, yes, that is correct. 64 and 65 driveshafts are the same. I do have a couple of spares, PM me exactly what you need(pic would be great) and I will send pics of mine. Thanks!

South Florida, just West of Ft. Lauderdale-Davie area

Hi Lasse, yes I have several complete sets of trim. PM me your info and I will get you pricing and shipping info. Thanks!

Hi all! Ok, so I bought a pretty sizeable collection of 1965 Riviera parts and a couple of cars including a 65 GS and a regular 65 Riv. I have a mountain of really good extras including: 3 sets of complete ribbed rocker trim-all in great condition, 12-AC/Heat Controls all in great condition, 3-Tri-Shield Trunk Latches, Some mixed NOS parts, 5-Cathedral Molding Sets-most are excellent, 3-Sets of Clamshells-some great, some need resto, 2-1965 Riviera Rear Taillights, 1-complete rear 65 Rear Bumper. And that is just the tip of the iceberg. Cars are for sale, also. Email with needs, I would rather sell here than Ebay it. The GS has a wood wheel, posi rear(have not checked ratio yet, give me a couple days) and I believe still has the BS trans in it(need to check the tag). Thanks and feel free to PM me or post questions here.

Hi Zimm, I sent you an email. Posi is still available.

Last call for alcohol, going to auction late tonight. Make me an offer if you want them, I will consider and let you know.

I have a couple of good condition 401/425 timing covers for sale. I will post pics later. Not corroded or cracked, threads are good. $200 each. PM or email me with questions. I have a ton of Nailhead parts for sale. Thanks!