Kestrel

Thanks Beemon. As I tinker around with these old Buicks, I'm finding more and more that the newer replacement parts just aren't as robust as the original. I never thought of bring this part to a repair shop. Problem is finding a good local shop anymore.

Having resolved my lighting switch problem, I'm now looking into replacing the original solenoid relay. It's the one mounted on the firewall with 4 terminals. It functions okay but looks real nasty inside . My car is stock 6v negative ground system. The only relay I can find that is similar and with the same mounting holes/ bracket, is a new repro 12v rated Delco Remy from Fusick Auto. Part no. 1116895. The one on the car is a Delco Remy Part no.1116855. Its rating is unknown. Question: Can I use this 12 v rated relay in this 6v system ? The rep at Fusick wasn't sure. The relay costs $95.00 so I want to be sure. Thanks guys for any guidance. I did do some continuity tests on mine and its working for now. Points look shiny and smooth. Just don't know for how long...

I just spoke with a rep from Y and Z's Yesterdays Parts https://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/ . Surprisingly they carry an exact 6v GM factory thermo circuit protected lighting switch for these era Buicks. It has the same bi-metal strip, contact points, and the control shaft will accept my existing original knob. Thinking of asking Santa for that one. Not cheap at $95.00 but what heck, it's only money. Plus the corrosion on mine, even after cleaning, messed up the dimmer operation 🎅

Thanks Bloo. Sounds like a logical approach. I intend to clean and remove any corrosion from all terminals in the various circuits this winter. Inspect any visible insulation for chaffing as well.

Hoping an original 70 year old breaker to function as designed was my reason to replace it, not to mention my car has original head and tail light wiring running to both ends of the car. Everything works but it's not been thoroughly inspected. After reading the above, it might be wise to remove and test the original for proper function and/or install a modern 6v auto reset breaker in parallel, keeping the original. From reading the manual if an overload happened, my understanding is the head lights would flash on and off , keeping the wires cool enough, until the issue is resolved. It would be an interesting experiment. 😀

I just read in the December Bugle that a member replaced the old stock thermo circuit breaker in the lighting switch with a modern 30 amp fuse in his '37 Buick for safety reasons. I want to do the same for my '51 Buick Super. Could anyone advise what terminals to connect the leads of such an in-line fuse ? Or perhaps simply splice the in-line fuse into the hot wire before it attaches to the #1 terminal. Here's a photo of mine showing what I believe is accurately marked. Thank you !! bottom right says "#1 terminal, hot from battery"

I understand now what you're saying. Upon closer examination, those clips appear embedded into the groove making it hard for any tool to grab the ends. Luckily I also have a generous dental hygienist that gladly gives me her used dental scaling picks. If the standard removal tools don't work, I'll pull those out and start probing around.⛏️

Thanks Tin and for the Harbor Freight link. Can't go wrong for $7.00. About the price of a six pack of beer.🍺

I'm trying to find the appropriate tool to get behind the inside door handles and remove the retainer springs so that they can be removed. The shop manual says "Door Handle Pliers KMO 601." I tried a standard mechanic's flat tool for removing retainer springs to no avail. Can anyone suggest a specific tool and where to find one ? Any tricks to this ? Thank you !

Didn't you have a bolt head exposed somewhere that had the radial lines indicating a grade 5 bolt and such markings were non-existent in 1932 ?? Hmmm...maybe that was someone else's car. You certainly would have caught that. 😜

I say # 1 (front drivers side) and # 5 (rear pass side). A shame no one will ever see that pretty ash framing and joinery, forever hiding beneath the surface. 🛠️

If anyone is looking for a very reasonable repair on their Sonomatic or other make of tube radio, I just had Robert Pacini of Precision Radio Repair, Utica, NY rebuild mine. His email : oldstereo@hotmail.com. He performed basically a stock rebuild with enhanced bass and treble response and an iPod/iPhone jack for less than $300.00. I had it back in less than 2 weeks. It works and sounds terrific. I was considering a full electronic conversion for a lot more $$ but decided to stay with the original sound and found Robert after searching this forum so this is more of an update on his existing service. He's old school, very helpful, and pleasant to deal with.

Wow ! To simply receive the nomination is huge ! Congratulations buddy ! I'd consider hiring a local photographer for this. They aren't that expensive and you'd have something nice for framing as well. Charlie

Thanks '53 ! After using a better light I see my gauge has a couple of attachment clamp screws similar to your picture, that need to come off. Then remove the whole gauge. It's just hard to see with all the wires in the way.

I need to remove a broken engine temperature gauge from behind the dash instrument (cluster) on my "51 Buick Super. It's not really a cluster but a single round housing that holds the amp gauge as well. I see 2 slot head screws on the back that appear to secure the temp capillary tube that originates from the cylinder head. Does the entire fixture need to be removed from the dash or does the temp gauge somehow wiggle free after removing these 2 screws while leaving the housing in place ? Any assistance appreciated ! !

Jerry, The cylinders on my '32 194 engine were about the same condition as yours before my rebuild. The rebuilder went with .030 over and I recall getting the pistons and pins from Kantor in NJ. Whatever way you go, try to nail down a definitive completion date with the shop. Mine took a year longer to finish than first estimated. And don't lose faith. It will all come together someday and you're young enough to make sure it does ! Hey, it was great meeting you at Hershey ! Too bad we didn't get a picture of you , me and Ted. 😃 Charlie (Hardaground on the VCCA forum)

That your brother discovered this issue BEFORE the Hershey trip is beyond fortuitous. Last thing you want is a structural failure hauling that Olds. Murphy's law is always lurking...😃

I like that idea. Then simply use a flashlight to check for any rising fluid ?

Thanks Tank !

I've seen threads referring to drilling and tapping a small hole in the torque tube to check for and to drain off any escaping ATF into rear end. My car's a '51 Buick Super with Dynaflow. Could someone advise where is a good location for this hole and any other considerations in this effort ? I imagine somewhere aft of the E brake bracket ? I don't like drilling holes in general and want to do it right the first time. Thanks !

Thanks Tank. I removed just under half a quart or so with a syringe through the dip stick hole. She reads just over full now. Good old leaks will do the rest. 😁

Quick question. I just changed out the tranny fluid in my Buick Super. After re-filling with 8 and 1/2 qts. ATF and following instructions the shop manual I went for a 2-3 mile road test drive. The fluid now reads (engine running) about an inch over the full line on the dipstick. There was no foaming or anything and it ran well. Would you guys drain off this apparent excess ? I don't want to blow out any seals or damage the clutches somehow. There is the usual slight leak in the torque tube/tranny connection that over time I suppose would bring the level down. Any thoughts appreciated !

Just for fun I looked at your first post. I think you should re-paint it a flat yellow. Ha ha...just kidding. It's a real piece of sculpture now !! I don't know how tight side mount tires are supposed to fit in the fenders, but on my '32 Chevy I have stress cracks in the paint where the tires are wedged in against the fender. Maybe they should be under inflated to be safe so as not to create any stress on that new paint. Just something that came to mind after looking at the above photo.

Along what 'pac kick" said, , speedometers in state police cars, at least in NYS, were calibrated using radar guns. They were all off slightly from what the needle said. It was this calibration card that was used In court to win trials. So you could make up your own card and paste on the panel somewhere. 👮‍♂️

Yes, headliner and doors are original. It looks like the headliner was originally grey. When I removed the antenna mount it was grey underneath. Now it's all brownish tan. The Trim No. is 64. Paint No. is 25 as appears on the body tag.