Kestrel

Don't know. I only test drove the car once when purchased in November. I've been busy simply degreasing, assessing things, like brakes, before I do any more road tests. So maybe I should just change the fluid and hold off with the rear end, for now as you suggested. I don't it's ever been changed. The car only has 27,000 + miles and it looks dirty. I 'm anxious to check out the state of the engine first anyway. Thank you

I wondering if fixing a leak coming from under the rubber boot requires the rear axle be disconnected and moved back with the torque tube to permit access ? I've read the manual but can't find a specific answer. So far the only visible leak in the Dynaflow is from behind this rubber boot. The book says it might be worn cross shaft bearing. Either way, I probably need to get inside this boot. I need to change out the ATF fluid but thought it best to first address this leak. It does weep constantly, with the car motionless, leaving a small puddle every day. I haven't checked for other leaks after driving the car yet. I'll save that fun for later in the game when she's on the ground. I see a couple of old Buick suppliers sell a Dynaflow Torque Ball Seal Kit and boot. Maybe this is a common issue ??? Thanks all !

I used the old hand scraping method with a putty knife initially , followed by liberal dousing with Gunk, then wire brushes (large and small), more Gunk, then scrub with a coarse 3M pad, working down to a finer pad. A final wipe with rags, then lacquer thinner. A very dirty and time consuming affair but it works. I suppose a hot pressure wash with strong detergents would be the professional's choice, but that would take all the fun out of it. 🤪

Interesting. I never considered a clear coat but why not. I'll try the satin out and see how it takes. I uncovered what appears to be inspection or assembly marks in yellow in various places. I really didn't want to cover them up with black paint. This was a New England car that somehow didn't see a lot of salt damage . Must have been laid up during the winters......The old undercoating is still intact in the fender wells and rockers, if scraped away I find shiny black paint underneath. Thanks Riv

I just finished the fun job of degreasing all front end components on my '51Super. I was going to use apply some Eastwood primer and chassis paint to keep all the bare metal from rusting. However I noticed NO trace of any original paint. Did they roll these cars off the line unpainted ? The over greasing sure did protect things regardless Thanks guys.

Appreciate the tips ! I've been spraying the sensor and the stuck heat riser daily with Kroil.

The pan is off and but too pretty with its new paint to put back on a dirty engine block. As soon as I finish degreasing everything, back she goes. After 2 weeks labor and 2+ cans of Gunk, I can actually identify all front end components. All looks solid and tight and bright, over greasing preserved everything ! Negative on the valve cover removal. Goal is to perform leak down and compression tests by end of the month.

Thanks Ben. It wouldn't budge when I backed off the 1/2" nut so I left it alone. I''ll pull the pushrod cover off and then take a look. Over on the driver's side, the ventilation intake mesh filter was very dirty so it's now soaking in Berryman's Carb cleaner. That stuff works well. I submerged my dirty oil pump mesh filter last week in it and she came out pristine after a few hours soaking.

Anyone familiar with the function of this "canister' where the breather pipe attaches on the pass side engine block ? I removed, cleaned, painted the long pipe (also the mesh intake filter on the driver side) but wonder if something needs attention inside this black thing. I'm changing out all fluids, cleaning filters, etc, in prep for an engine start up after a long time sitting idleThanks !

Most of that grey is a reflection of the overcast cloudy sky above as I took the photo outside that day. Sludge was really 98% black. As you said, I'll know more after testing.

I'll definitely give re-torquing a try first. I would think doing so on a warm engine would be most effective. Ginger root ? Cool. I know it works great for seasickness in people. If my car's ever on a ferry, the engine might like it too.🚢 Seriously, I'd like to know how these stop leak products distinguish between a partially clogged heater core or radiator tube passages from a gasket leaks ? I would like to avoid any unintended consequences.

Good question. I don't know how bad it is. I haven't driven it enough to know. Been busy cleaning out the sludge in the pan, then with new oil, I'll feel better about running longer tests that might show state of leakage. Also the brakes need a good inspection before I venture out. I just figured the head gasket being almost 70 yrs old, it's just a matter of time before it really fails and causes serious damage. Interesting to know no exhaust gaskets were originally installed. I may be just looking at dirt/debris in the seam giving the appearance of an old gasket.😳 Thanks Ben

I've had my '51 Buick Super about 3 weeks now and am thinking of replacing the original headgasket and manifold gaskets. There is coolant weeping at 3 locations, not bad but it's there. The intake and exhaust gaskets are likewise original and show deterioration. Car has 27500 miles. Engine runs smooth, no other obvious issues. It's been sitting for many years with no real load on its systems. I do have a new engine gasket kit. I've been told by retired mechanics conflicting opinions on using Bars Leak (stop leak). It will stop leaks BUT can clog heater cores and radiators, eventually even though GM recommended it for many models. 1. What would you guys do ? Forget any additives and just replace the headgasket ? 2. How risky is it to cause a crack in the exhaust or intake manifold during the removal process. I've been told it can frequently happen with these old straight 8 manifolds due to warping. Maybe loosen each bolt slightly at a time and in reverse sequence of the tightening pattern ? Cold or warm engine ? I intend to restore the car as a dependable driver so I want to do it right the first time. Before I foo anything I'll do a compression and leak down test. That alone may answer question #1 above. Thanks guys !

I found it at the local NAPA store. Thanks ! I never knew JB Weld made such a thing. I've always used their traditional 2 part product. I'll give the ExtremeHeat a shot.

Jeeze, I didn't think this was a whiskey job. Okay, fortunately my undercarriage looks very clean, little rust or corrosion, and the fasteners, bolts, nuts are actually recognizable, so we'll see soon what gives.

Do you mean the GM Body Manual ? I have theShop Manual. Thanks !

I'm thinking of removing the front bumper, grill, radiator, and the 2 front fenders on my newly acquired '51 Super in order to gain easy access to the engine and front end components. There are a several things I want to do and thought it would pay to take the time and make everything accessible. Those big Buick fenders could be back breakers and in the way for sure. Removing the nose would be like working on an old John Deere tractor, just walk up, sit down, and starting wrenching. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has done this and any tips for a novice body man. I have the time and the space, and don't mind taking photos. Thanks guys !!

Thanks for the brazing idea. I'll be removing it soon and will try to find someone with that experience. I like the idea of disabling the riser indefinitely. How important is this component anyway if the car is driven in mostly warm weather ? My '32 Chevy gives the driver complete control in the form of a manually operated pull knob on the dash. I never fool with it and leave it in the closed position. I've been warned carburetor icing can occur in low 50's F and high humidity. More of an issue in airplanes I imagine. No expert though. 🙄

That's great to hear. Your photo tells it all. I always assume the worst with these things. Maybe now I can put some money towards a lift system and get this beast off the ground. ?

Darn. That manifold has a different carb bolt pattern (3), mine is 4. Thanks anyway. Good price for someone else looking. Aaron, I read your old thread. Encouraging to hear an epoxy might tide me over. The engine idles smooth and no change when I sprayed a little carb cleaner into the cracks. Maybe they don't go all the way through. I'll know more when I yank it off. My heat riser throttle is frozen. Probably not uncommon. Thanks guys.

Here's a sad photo of the back of my newly acquired '51 Buick Super 263's intake manifold. It's seen better days for sure. As a temporary fix, do you guys think JB Weld, if prepared and applied right, would hold me over until I can locate a good used manifold ? I have no idea how hard or long it could take to find one. Any suggestions where to begin a search or where to place a want ad would also be greatly appreciated. The casting number on the manifold is 1338 252 6. I'd really like to do it right the first time around. I live in Ct if that helps anyone that might have one lying around.? At the least I would think both exhaust and intake manifolds should come off and milled true before I go replacing gaskets. Thanks guys !!

I bet the guy under the pick-up needed 3 maybe 4 friends to raise it that high. Wonder how many it would take to raise an old Buick that high ? A lot more than I got....?

Great information. My first thought with the Quick Jack was no side access as mentioned above. I thought I saw on their website it could be used laterally or athwartship, instead of longitudinally if the undercarriage allowed it, thus solving the side access problem ? Either way, it sounds like a great option for us low ceiling guys. Just have to open my wallet a little wider. List around &1,700 or so. ?

Thanks guys. That Ranger Quick Jack is pretty slick. Aaron, have you tried it under the '53 Buick ? Just wondering if the Quick Jack's rubber blocks that sit on the lifting frame allow it to match up to the lift points on the car ? Chassis length might be too long ? I have sturdy floor jacks for now and would probably use them as a back up with such a system, as Bill stated. Are there recommended frame rail lift points locations for these cars ? I have the shop manual on order.

Just curious to hear how you guys safely work under these heavy postwar Buicks. I'm buying a '51 Super and am not thrilled with using common jack stands for general undercarriage work. I have a chance to buy a used Kwik-lift that ensures safely but doesn't require high ceilings (more $$) or periodic maintenance as with 2 or 4 post lifts. I have a much lighter smaller '32 Chevy that I comfortably use jack stands under but have second thoughts with the Buick. I'm not a commercial shop guy, just your average home restorer. Thank you !!