Kestrel

Carbon core were in there when I bought the car last fall. Included was a receipt showing a local shop replaced the wires, points, etc. The prior owner was not a car guy so I imagine they put it what was readily available. Do you know if these cars had copper wire wires originally ?

Thanks ! When the car is drivable, I'll give them good road test and see what gives. Cahartley, is that a '32 chevy confederate in your avatar ? I have a 4 door, restored to stock and very drivable.

I was unable to get an answer in another AACA forum so I'm trying here. Anyone know if resistor plugs (AC R46) together with carbon core plug wires would deliver sufficient spark on a stock 6v ignition system ? The car is a '51 Buick, 263 cu in, 6volt system that called for AC 46 plugs originally. I can not find any of those but did find a set of NOS AC R46. Just wondering if sufficient voltage will get through to fire the plugs properly. I got around 5k Ohms testing the resistor plugs. I don't know these cars had solid core wires originally but mine have been replaced with modern carbon core wires. Also, if running the resistor plugs, could it increase or decrease the recommended gap ? Thanks guys ! Edit

RansomEli hit it. I'd say most of the products/techniques mentioned here produce the same result. What's essential is the time-consuming physical effort required. I used Gunk, 3M pads, putty knife, wire brushes, and plenty of newspapers. Finished off with lacquer thinner on my '51 Buick undercarriage. Nothing easy about it. 🤮

I was thinking of replacing the tired looking AC46 plugs in my car with a set of NOS AC R46 (resister) plugs I found on eBay. If my existing plug wires are carbon core , could the combination of the these wires together with the resister plugs adversely affect performance or cause misfires ? I'm wondering if the stock coil, condenser, and the original ignition system setup, would be able to deliver sufficient spark ? I read an old post discussing carbon vs. solid core but it didn't address using resister plugs. Did these cars originally have solid wire or carbon cored ? The car an AM radio but I don't plan on adding any fancy electronics or electronic ignition. Thank you.

Impressive animation for almost 85 years ago ! Since mine has been brought back from the dead, I'll keep my valve maintained, functional, and the gas molecules happy. I've read it also prevents carburetor icing which is more of a nuisance in our old cars and obviously not life threatening as in carbureted aircraft.

SUCCESS !! See my last post under subject "Buick Manifold Gasket" this forum. Thanks Beerczar and others. 😅

After putting a straight edge across the ports, it was warped pretty bad on one end. Since both manifolds were still bolted together (with frozen bolts) I decided to leave it that way and take the whole assembly to a machine shop to have it milled true. That way I have a better chance of permanent seal and can decide what gasket method to go with. Why separate them if not needed ? That's a terrific option with Remflex. Thanks for the link. My head mating surface didn't look too good so I'll probably go with their gaskets. Meanwhile, after 2 hours with a propane torch, Kroil penetrant, and a hammer drill (set on just the hammer mode) targeting both shaft ends, I got that stubborn riser shaft loose. Oiled it with ATF and machine oil, rotated it about a 100 times by hand. It easily fully opens and closes now. Plus the old coil rusty thermostat actually works. I applied and removed heat with the torch causing the coil spring to expand and contact turning the the shaft and flapper valve with it, operating as designed. I just can't believe it. I must confess however, I had direction and emotional support from an experienced fellow restorer I was able to snagg on his way back home from work

While I wait for the penetrant on my heat riser to do its job, I have a gasket question. I learned here that these engines had no exhaust gaskets when made and only thin metal ones on the intake ports. I bought a full engine gasket kit a while back (Fusick Automotive) and it has 3 gasket sections that cover all intake and exhaust ports. They look like traditional manifold gaskets. Are these an " upgrade" over factory and okay to install ? I don't want to introduce anything the engine was not designed to have. I definitely had exhaust leaks so this might be a good remedy. Thanks all !! 3 new gaskets in kit What came out on removal

Great tips on the bushing if I go that way. Meanwhile I'll break out my torch and give it a try. The OWNERS (and shop) manual says to lubricate every 1000 miles with graphited kerosene, and actually warns of a cracked manifold if the valve is stuck in on position due to constant excessive heat. Sure enough, it cracked but not at critical spot. I plan on driving the car in cooler weather so it would be nice to have it working. Its a long piece of steel, might like some help warming up, especially in New England. I can't imagine too many owners ever lubed their riser. Thanks guys.

Anyone know of a source for manifold heat riser shafts or components ? Mine is frozen fast . A month of daily penetrant doses and banging with a hammer did nothing. I'm afraid the drill might have to come out. I though maybe someone has made them up as did someone did for my '32 Chevy which had the same problem. Now don't be laughing at my shop crane helping with the removal. I work alone and just recovered from an injured back.....and not getting any younger.

Greatly appreciate the advice. I have 8 qts of NAPA's DEX/MERC ATF fluid. It says it's recommended for pre-2006 GM cars requiring Dextron III Mercon fluid. It should be backwards compatible with these old Buicks. I read the early Type A ATF contained sperm whale oil.

Approx. 8 and 1/2 qts. unless dry , then it would take an additional 1 and 3/4 pints.

Yes, 2 diametrically opposed. One was loosened (for air) and the other removed, converter was drained.

Just curious why the shop manual says in large capitals "TRANSMISSION MUST NOT BE FLUSHED" . It so states in the 25,000 mile Lubricare section. Chance of crud lodging in critical areas and causing trouble ? I've read several past AACA post war threads on this subject and the consensus seems to be simply repeat filing and draining until the ATF runs clean, running engine and driving in between if possible. I've drained out initially about 5 qts. I've watch many videos on flushing but they were always on modern cars. Appreciate any comments. Thank you!

When the wife goes shopping maybe I'll fry up a little on the stove. I have over 5 quarts of the stuff.

That's what I was thinking. Someone didn't have their morning coffee and poured in some 30 wt oil by mistake. Yes, my crankcase oil pan looked the same. The oil doesn't smell burnt. Car shifted and ran fine, but I didn't test drive it far. No leaks, except a small one out the rear torque ball thing.

A uniformly dark reddish color, almost black. No traces of milky white moisture laden oil. At least to my eyes. Might be interesting to have it analyzed, if I knew where to bring it.

Thank you. I'll poke around in there. Could normal condensation from the car sitting for many years contribute somewhat ??

I couldn't believe the amount of hardened crud on my transmission's oil pan filter. The poor Dynaflow must have been starved for flow. 27,500 miles on the car but obviously the pan was never off. Plenty of sludge there too. 2 days soaking in a can of Berryman's Carb Cleaner fixed that ! 🤮

Yep, it's seen better days and on my list......

Okay. I was going to try to re-torque the bolts first to see if it corrects the coolant weeping I mentioned in a previous post. My plan was to remove and replace one at a time, cleaning each hole and thread, reapplying thread sealant on the left side bolts, and regular torque lube on the others, then replace each one before moving on to another in a reverse torquing pattern. I'd mark each bolt first to see if the 2nd torquing made any difference. The shop manual says to remove the rockers for head removal. I assume if the correct wrench adapter was available, sufficient torque could be applied with rockers in place for final torquing down. At least that's what the shop manual says....and has a picture even. I have the time to try this anyway and a shop crane if the head has to come off. (I wonder if the original thread sealant failed and that's why the weepage is only on the left side where the bolts pass through water passages ) Thanks guys !

I planned on leaving the rockers in place, at least initially.

I'm looking for a cylinder head wrench adapter in the event I have to remove the head on my '51 Super. The book says to use a KMO 187-1 attachment with 3/4" box end. Anyone know if this one would work ? A see a few on eBay. Thanks !

Thank you. I see in a related thread that Dave Edwards of Auto Tran in Mass. stocks them and most Dynaflow items. He's not far away from me in Ct. 😄