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Are you looking for something that attaches to the radiator rods under the hood like this: These are available at Roberts Motor Parts: http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/ Use their search feature for "hood support", the part number is T162

The '37 Limited I had a few years back had wood through out the body, sides, roof and floor. It was a real mess from all the moisture that was absorbed into the wood. I was told only the Specials and Centurys had all steel body, '39 was the first year all the models were steel bodied.

Andrew, I feel you pain. I'm working on a '37 Special. Well, at least it looked like you started with a decent base. My '37, or I should say my first '37 was a rot bucket, it really turned into a parts car. I have a few pictures on my web site of my progress. www.fatfenderedtrucks.com/37buick01.html

We live on a dairy farm with cows and chickens. This means we have a great supply of food for the mice. We also have quite a few cats. Many people think the best thing to do is not feed the cats and they will get hungry and take care of the mice. The vet that checks the cows told us you need to feed the cats, hungry cats will try to conserve their energy and not waste it hunting. We feed the barn cats every day and as far as I know we don't have much of a mouse problem. If you really want to see an efficient mouser watch a flock of hens find a mouse in the hen house. They will pounce on a mouse without any hesitation and won't play with the mouse like a cat. When a chicken catches a mouse all of the other chickens will join in. The mouse will be dead within a minute or two, completely skinned and gutted.

I have learned never to put poison where you don't want the vermin. I had a pop-up camper and laid some mouse poison cakes inside. The major problem I realized too late is the poison attracts the mice so they came inside and before dying did major damage to the inside of the camper. I now load my old trucks with box of fabric softener sheets. They smell nice but in large quantities hurt my nose which I think has the same effect on the vermin. The sheets seem to work for me.

Thanks everyone. That's actually my business shop. I operate a non-auto related business and have a portion reserve for servicing my company truck, and whatever happens to come through. I've spent many hours outside on the gravel working on my projects. Little by little I have been able to move up. I have a Lincoln 250 MIG welder. It's a little too big, the smallest wire I can push through it is .30, a little too heavy for sheet metal but I was able to make it work.

An update on my Special. I have all of the metal work done on the body. I even leaded the bead and edge of the rear quarter panels. I tried leading maybe 30 years ago and couldn't do it. For some reason this time I was able to get the lead to stick and even shape it without having it run off. It was relatively simple. After doing the rocker panels while the body was still on the rotisserie I mounted the body on the chassis today.

Sorry to hear about the accident, morons with cell phones and texting. Hopefully the idiot has good insurance. Hound the hell out of them to get your car fix correctly. No, sorry, I don't have an extra fender. Have you tried Dave Tacheny? If you don't know about Dave Google his name and you'll find all his contact information on at least a dozen sites. The best time to get him is after 6 pm CST via phone, he doesn't do much with the internet.

This is a very helpful paint page:Color Chip Selection

I upgraded the brake system on my '37 Special a while back. I haven't had the car on the road yet but all seems to be working correctly. 1937 Buick Special Page 7

Another article by Dave Lewis in the January 1985 issue of the Torque tube lists the brake hoses for the 80&90 series as NAPA #4497. When you go to the NAPA web site it says the #4497 has Male - 7/16"-20 & Female - 7/16"-24 threads. Maybe Dave got the numbers wrong but it seems like he has done a lot of research. Maybe all you have to do is change the cylinders and the hoses.

The only two ways I can think of to remove a broken bolt in a threaded hole is to either drill it out and retap the hole, which you can't do because this is not a through hole. Second is to use an easy-out, which I hate using because there's a good chance of breaking the easy-out in the bolt, causing another, bigger problem because easy-outs are hardened steel. But with this thread there isn't enough material for an easy-out to even grasp. If you have a small enough chisel you might be able to break the fitting out but that's a lot of work without any assurance of having a good outcome. I think getting a new part is the only way to go. I don't like screwing around with brake parts. If you can get the old threads out you might end up with a leaky fitting. Can you get the old Chevy truck parts easier in your country?

The attached page was in the May-June 2001 issue of the Torque Tube. It lists brake parts from newer or more common vehicles that will fit our old Buicks. I recently checked, NAPA has all of the parts. With a little cross referencing you can also find them at Rock Auto on line. This is the NAPA part#7536, about $25 in my area. new_brake_parts.pdf

I think they might be off a 1940 Buick. Our buddy Nuttybuick has a piece of door trim from a 1940 Buick 40 series that looks the same. I have these two pieces now listed on eBay as well. 1939 1940 Buick Front Door Stainless Trim | eBay

The reason I was asking is there is a '41 being parted.out in the want ads and one of the parts shown is the stainless windshield trim. I thought if it fit I'd use it to dress up my '37. My car will never be professionally judged so I'm not worried about being 100% correct. It will have a '40 engine with dual carbs. Thanks for replies.

Can anyone tell me if the windshields from a '37 Special are the same as the windshields from a '41 Special? Also, are the windshields the same for the Specials as the other models? Thanks,

I bought these two pieces for my 1937 Special. When I got home I found they didn't match the other pieces of trim I have for the car. I was told these are for a 1939 or 1940 Buick Century. I believe they are for the doors of a two door because they are longer than the doors on my 4 door Special. They are in very good condition, they would need a some clean up but are straight without any dings. They measure 40 1/8" long. I would like to get $45 for the pair.

Mark, are these old cars ever done? I will try to keep working on the car, I'm hoping to have it back on the chassis in a week or so. After that I'll be doing the body work on it and getting it in primer. I still have the fenders and doors to do. These parts are also in rough shape but not nearly as bad as the body. BTW, do you have to be a BCA member to get the PWD newsletter?

The recent post by Groselle has inspired me to post a thread about my '37 Special. Many things have happened since I bought my original '37 Special. I ended up scrapping that car after putting a lot of work into it, after buying two engines, a '36 and '40. I ended up buying a different body and chassis. I was able to save the front fenders, which are side mount which I have been told are fairly rare on a Special. I also saved some trim pieces and other parts. I bought a couple of parts cars and got some pretty good finds, one being a complete dual carb set up for the 248. As of now I have done some pretty major body repairs. I figure I've replaced about 20% of the body, making all my own patch panels. I still have to do a couple of more patches. Once I'm done I'll have the body blasted so it's clean, epoxy primed and ready for finish body work. The attached images detail the work that's been done on the car and what is still needed to be done. I have a section of my website set up with pictures detailing the work I've done on my Special so far. 1937 Buick Special Page The latest work is on the last few pages: 1937 Buick Special Page 7

Greg, I found your web site a few years ago when I got my '37 Special. Very inspirational, especially when I encountered a set back with my project. I've a lot done on my rust bucket Special, I plan to post an update soon. Where are you moving to, you said across the country?

I changed the drawing, I was given an incorrect dimension for the height of the cup washer. Also, I&I Reproductions has them, $1.25 a piece plus shipping. CW01 Cup Washers @ 12.00 set of 8 are the correct part for your 1937 Buick: a) 5/16" height 9/16" inside diameter c) 5/8" outside diameter d) 1/4" hole diameter e) CW01 - Cup Washer @ 12.00 set of 8 f) Shipping & Handling @ 9.50 g) Free Catalog w/purchase h) Grand Total $ 21.50 <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

I did a little internet research today and found a engine freeze plug might work. Dorman #550-006, the dimensions are 11/16" wide and a little over 5/8" high. This is a drawing I did from the information provided by the member on the Yahoo! board.

Anyone know where you can get them? The only place I have found the might have them is I&I Reproductions. I sent them an email to see if what they have is what I'm looking for.

Grant, thanks for the information. If they were on Chevys as well they might be a little easier to find.A person on the Yahoo! discussion board was kind enough to post a picture of the parts I was looking for: