CTX-SLPR

Need floor pans!!!

I ate a pair of regulators before discovering my alterator plug had pulled a wire out of the socket. Once I got that fixed and replaced with a replacement Borg Warner unit, the electrical system was perfect till I pulled the nailhead last summer.

I ran an Optima Red Top in my '64 for a year and it worked great. Its like 880CCA and has never ever given me a lick of trouble. It was charged out of the shrink wrap that was 4yrs old and I've been nothing but impressed with it. I'll get part number if you're interested.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 40series</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CTX-SLPR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Willing to cut it up? I need floorpans!! On a much much quicker note I need the plastic windshield washer distibution block attached to the pump, the screws holding the drivers door baffle plate (the one that hides the inner fender around the hinges), the screws holding the center vent to the radio plate, and the lower sections of the parking light pods. Thanks, </div></div> floorpans all have some kind of rust through, dash vent screws are in poor condition. Door baffle screws are good. The washer distribution is also good but I can see it is a pain to remove. Lower park light pods have some minor pitting but very restorable. washer dist. block 30.00 w/ door baffle screws lower park light pods 50.00pr. </div></div> Taking the fender off makes it easy to get to the screws for the washer block. I'll entertain picturs of the floors, they could still be usable for me. Can you check to see what size the screws holding the center vent are? Thanks,

Heater valve cable, can tell by the red end. There are 2, 1 from the dash control to the louver and 1 from the louver to the valve on the inner fender. That's probably the dash to louver one.

My original '64 carpet didn't overlap either and again had a much larger gap in between the sections.

Would an 83 be the TH325-4L or would it be the 3spd? Wouldn't an older TH425 be a close fit as well?

Cool, I could really use those small parts in a hurry since I have the fenders off currently but not planning on keeping them that way past next weekend.

when do you think you'll start taking it apart?

Willing to cut it up? I need floorpans!! On a much much quicker note I need the plastic windshield washer distibution block attached to the pump, the screws holding the drivers door baffle plate (the one that hides the inner fender around the hinges), the screws holding the center vent to the radio plate, and the lower sections of the parking light pods. Thanks,

Beat me too it, I pulled out the thread gauge and got the same thing lastnight. Good info, now show us the pictures dude!

I didn't find anything that matched up. I tried holding a 32 up to it and it wasn't right either. Tomorrow I'll dig out my thread gauge and see if I can get a match.

I'll drag my spare shifter into ACE tomorrow and see what I can get to thread on.

Howdy, Well I've been looking over how to route the add on wiring harnesses on the car and I've pretty much determined that the best way is to put them inside the fenders. Since I need to do some body work on the drivers fender anyway I'm going to remove them. I think I can see all the bolts and I have to pull the front bumper off. Any hidden tricks or "gotyas" involved? Another question is I think my front bumper got bent in an accident, does anyone have the dimentions from either the mounting horns to the end mounts or between the end mounts so I can have a shop pull it back to true? Thanks,

I want one but I have no need and no Garage Majal to put it in like you.

You getting into turbo cars now Ted? I want it but its way out of my reach.

Has anyone had any experience with adding on a resistor grid style defroster to an unequipped rear window? I don't think my blower style defroster is going to be very effective (someone correct me if I'm wrong there) and I was thinking about adding an aftermarket kit to the rear window and controlling it with the original switch. Thanks,

www.classicbuicks.com also has the support and where I got mine when I fragged it in my '70 Riviera. Giving serious consideration to replacing mine when I take the shaft out to get a new front shaft to match the relocated trans.

They are nothing more than a piece of 16Ga steel that has had a few bends in it with a brake and some band saw holes. Basically like these:

At this point I'm trying to make progress where I can. I think I made a mistake in buying Classic Fabrication floor patch panels for the car and I really don't feel confortable in leaving the floor the way it is. Will keep looking for parts.

Recieved, email works great. That tail section is worse that I was looking for right now. However the floor pans are definately interesting to me. I don't know how much you want to hack up the car but I really need both sides from around 4in in front of the front seat mounts to the same behind the rear seat mounts all the way to the tunnel. I also need the floor braces underneith the floor and the attached section of the inner rockers if you feel you can get them out cleanly otherwise its mainly the floor pans I'm after. I could also use the front section of the passengers floorboard at the base of the kick panel (will show you a picture to see where specifically) and if you have it the shifter gate with the true 3spd shift pattern since I have a later trans. Thanks,

Thanks for the heads up.

What kind of shape are the floorpans in around the front seat mounts? Rear section of the car, tail panel and about 18in forward in good shape? Thanks,

Those look like Caprice wheels and what is left of the interior is '65. Wonder if they changed the core support to gain the headlight pickup points for the earlier lights?

Well I am planning on going with an AirRide shockwave system eventually but I don't plan on driving it in the "down" position. Right now I have the way overchopped front springs that came on the car that will go back on it to replace the H2 '65 Gran Sport springs currently on the front because the thing has close to the ground clearance of my 99 Z71 right now with the empty V6 in the nose. I like wide tires and would love to get a set of 18x8 or 17x8in wheels under the front with like a 1.5-2in drop from stock in the nose but I'm not cutting anything up to do it. I passed on the wheels anyway but its good to know.