trimacar Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 OK, you Packard experts....I know there are some accessory differences, but engine-wise, will a 1939 Super 8 block fit, and function, on a 1938 Super 8 crankcase? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41 Su8 Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 David, it should, they were the same. The Super 8 engine change was in 1940. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 Thank you. I have a bad '38 block, it can't be repaired, but have acquired what appears to be a good '39 engine. I'd prefer to keep the bottom end of my '38 as it has been rebuilt. I'm somewhat of a purist and hate to bastardize an engine, but the '38 eights all had some type of metallurgical problem. Cracks develop between valve seats and the metal crystalizes in such a way that repair is either very difficult, or in the case of my engine, not possible. Apparently in '39 they solved the issue and also added more cooling capacity to the blocks. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 You can take a 38 six and JB weld on two more holes. Don’t forget to change the distributor. Bet the judges won’t even notice! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 Ed, Ed, Ed. Is that Florida sunshine giving you fits again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 I was having fits long before I moved south............. you could repower it with that Pierce engine I dropped off to you a while back.....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 17, 2018 Author Share Posted March 17, 2018 8 minutes ago, edinmass said: I was having fits long before I moved south............. you could repower it with that Pierce engine I dropped off to you a while back.....? You joke, but I've always thought my '38 Packard convertible coupe, with a 36-38 Pierce drivetrain with automatic overdrive, would be a killer car. Packard arguably better styling, with Pierce arguably better engineering.... Wow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted March 17, 2018 Share Posted March 17, 2018 (edited) Who said I was joking? ? I’m a purist but I would install the 39 so you can enjoy it ASAP. Just keep the factory block with the car. I wouldn’t bother swapping over the upper end, as it could cause a bunch of issues and expense with no advantage. Best bet would be install the current good running 39, find another donor motor, and then as time is available build the 38 motor and install it. Best of both worlds. I want to drive that thing before I get my social security checks! Edited March 17, 2018 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander160 Posted March 23, 2018 Share Posted March 23, 2018 (edited) So I take it you mean the "jugs", the cylinder block. Yes, it's the same. All the 38 stuff should bolt right on and with my right hand only raised a little, not sure there's any way one could tell the difference, unless you get really weird and try to find casting dates. Good luck. This also assumes we mean the Super 8 which was the 320 as found in the 8s thru 36. In 37 They dropped the 385 and went to the 320, but the series was called "Super 8" in the senior series cars. Edited March 23, 2018 by Highlander160 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 Yes, the 320...think the 39 block may marry to the 38 bottom end well, have one of the best engine guys around these parts coming over Sunday to assess the situation. Had 39 block cleaned and magnafluxed, top deck in great shape, an old repair to block under water distribution plate but don't think it's a functional issue...the 39 block is bored 30 over, and guess what my 38 block was...the same...might work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classic Car Fan Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 (edited) The 1939, 320 block, and cylinder head may have different cooling passages then the earlier configurations. I only am aware of this because I needed to swap the badly corroded Aluminum head on my 1935 eight with a cast iron head, and in researching found the 1939 only heads and block have more cooling passages. I ended up purchasing a replacement head that had all the cooling passages in it for 1934, to 1939. My head gasket blocks the unneeded passages in the head. I would install the running engine and be driving asap. Enjoy your car, and good luck having it up and running soon. The clean head is my 1939 replacement, the dirty only is my original 1935 aluminum head. Andy Edited March 24, 2018 by Classic Car Fan pics added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 Thanks, Andy...when I found the 39 engine, I was told there was no head with it, and that the cooling passages are more numerous than the 37/38 block/head...through the magic of searching this forum, I found a '39 head that had been advertised a while back and never sold, and jumped on it.... To be clear, I didn't buy a running engine, I bought an engine that had some work done to it but it was partially disassembled. I've been inspecting and taking measurements, and it's looking good as far as using my rebuilt '38 bottom end, rods, and pistons in the already-honed oversize 39 block. That leaves the issue of valves, I had new valves in the '38 block, so now it's a question of seat condition or replacement in the '39 block. After all this is over, I'll have a fairly complete '37 Super Eight engine to sell, which appears to be in nice shape and is all together, but untested and not inspected. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highlander160 Posted March 24, 2018 Share Posted March 24, 2018 Just to throw it out there, I have some info somewhere that says those 320 blocks were more like cast steel and best to cut new seats vs hardened inserts. I'll try to find it (again) and share. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flackmaster Posted April 4, 2018 Share Posted April 4, 2018 (edited) 39-320....smart... DAF Edited April 4, 2018 by flackmaster (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted April 4, 2018 Author Share Posted April 4, 2018 On 3/24/2018 at 3:53 PM, Highlander160 said: Just to throw it out there, I have some info somewhere that says those 320 blocks were more like cast steel and best to cut new seats vs hardened inserts. I'll try to find it (again) and share. My engine guy, a well versed fellow to say the least, took one look at the valve seats, said they were in nice shape, and no way he'd put in inserts. He's also a racing and hot rod engine builder, he took a look at one of the valves and said "hmmmm, you know, if I reconfigure the contour of this valve I think I can get you five percent more power out of the engine". When I started to gently protest, he said "How much does that thing weight? You should be BEGGING for five percent more power!!" Flackmaster, as one fellow said, a '39 engine in a '38 is the best of both worlds. The '37 engine will be for sale, and I also acquired a very nice intake/exhaust manifold that apparently is a 1933-34 Super Eight, and it will be for sale. It has the pad for an external thermostat/choke and is in excellent condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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