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Classic Car Fan

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  1. 1935 Packard out for a Sunday drive, gas and then a stop at stage #8, Warner Bros. Studios, Burbank CA.
  2. I need a set of 35/36 Eight Horseshoe moldings for my 1201 model car. They are different than the Super Eight and Twelve. A set would be great, but individual pieces are ok too. The priority is a small right rear piece. Please email me at spilko@aol.com if you have any to sell. Thank You. Andy
  3. I believe you can get 1/2 round stock in brass. It can be plated and threaded studs can be attached to it for mounting. The brass should be fairly easy to bend to the contour it appears you need. Andy
  4. Try John Ulrich and Custom Auto Service. Andy
  5. I was offered this 1928 Chevrolet at $4,500, I am on the fence. It is not local so I am gambling the wood is decent and the engine ok.
  6. 1931 V12, C20. I recall it belonged to Black Hawk when it was restored by Mike Fennel, about 1986
  7. A few from when I worked at Mike Fennel Enterprises back in the mid 1980s'
  8. I am in need on one Packard 1201 Drum Dust Cover. Inside Diameter 15", outside 16" Andy
  9. I had the privilege to be able to take apart, and oversee the restoration on this Duesenberg when I worked for Mike Fennel in the mid 1980's. I do not recall the number, but am sure I have it in the pile of photos I took during the disassembly of the car. I know it was re restored to Maroon and Black and sold a few years ago for over two million if I recall correctly. I will never own one, but I had the opportunity to take one apart and restore it, and drive it. Andy
  10. I would recommend anyone looking to purchase a car inspect it in person, if they are an inexperienced buyer that they have someone well versed in vintage automobiles go with them. Another option would be to have the car inspected by a respected appraiser, cheap insurance to assure one is purchasing what is advertised. A seller can ask what they want, opinions of what is considered restored may differ from seller, to seller. Buyer beware, always.
  11. Ask these questions before even considering renting your car to a studio film, TV, or commercial production. Will the car need to be driven, if yes who will be expected to drive it, will cameras or lights need to be attached to the car, will stunts be done with the car, how many hours will the car be needed each day, can I have myself or a handler with the car each day, what will the rate be for this handler. Beware my car loving Friends. If you have a decent driver quality car that you are ok having people that in most cases are not car people who will appreciate that this vehicle is your pride and joy, and that you have spent years lovingly restoring work around your car that will just be another piece of the movie making machinery tool for them to do the days work, do not rent your car to a studio.The amount of damage that can be done by good intentioned crew members with hammers, clips and wrenches on their tool belts, plus the cameras and lights moving around the vehicle in close proximity make likely damage be unavoidable. I would only recommend renting a personal car if it is going to be used as a background vehicle to driven by the owner who is also paid to be in the scene with the car, even this may involve hours of the car idling and lead to possible overheating. My advice from my experiences as a TV and Movie transportation coordinator responsible for procuring cars for the screen. Ask yourself is $800 worth damaging my car Andy
  12. I would remove the oil cooler and check it for leaks. There is a good chance that it is perforated, could have been there, may have been caused by excessive oil pressure. I had the same problem with my car. The photo is the oil cooler form a 1935 Eight.
  13. If all the screws for the hinges, and the hinge pins are tight, then the door misalignment is likely caused by wood that moved, then in my opinion the best option is to turnbuckle the door. Andy turnbuckle doors.pdf
  14. The 1939, 320 block, and cylinder head may have different cooling passages then the earlier configurations. I only am aware of this because I needed to swap the badly corroded Aluminum head on my 1935 eight with a cast iron head, and in researching found the 1939 only heads and block have more cooling passages. I ended up purchasing a replacement head that had all the cooling passages in it for 1934, to 1939. My head gasket blocks the unneeded passages in the head. I would install the running engine and be driving asap. Enjoy your car, and good luck having it up and running soon. The clean head is my 1939 replacement, the dirty only is my original 1935 aluminum head. Andy
  15. From the album: 1951 Vw I restored

    © Andy Spilkoman

  16. From the album: 1951 Vw I restored

    © Andy Spilkoman

  17. From the album: 1951 Vw I restored

    © Andy Spilkoman

  18. From the album: 1951 Vw I restored

    © Andy Spilkoman

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