If It Ain't One Thing It's Another - '39 Fuel Pump

[JRHaelig]

Jeez -

 

Thought I just had to bleed the brakes and finally get out for a test drive.  'Cept the darn car stopped running.

 

I hung an IV bottle of fuel in the form of a Snapple bottle connected to the carb inlet line and it ran (thirsty bugger, too) so delivery was the issue.

 

I pulled the just rebuilt fuel pump and found that the lever had snapped off.  Of course it landed in the just installed oil pan, so that comes off tomorrow (all 96 bolts) and I go fishing for the lever bits.

 

I ordered an AIrtex 8902 pump.  It's listed at 2.5 to 4 PSI and I plan to mount it in the rear and run it un-regulated, but not through the old pump.  Old pump will stay in place just to block the hole.

 

Next thing you know the Carter WD-O will show how desperate it is.

 

This hobby tries my patience......for 3 cars now.  Probably will for the next one, too!

[Larry Schramm]

Standard practice. 

 

Drive it, break it, fix it, repeat.

[DonMicheletti]

Actually, If the arm just landed in the pan, it will do no harm to stay there. It certain ly wont get sucked into the oil pump. I'd be tempted to just leave it there and install a new pump.

 

However, and important question - why did the arm break off in the first place? Are you sure it is correct for your engine?

 

"Are we having fun yet?"

[JRHaelig]

Well I pulled the pan and extracted the offending digit.  Not as difficult as it could have been,

 

I don't think this was the correct pump in the first place.  It was a glass globe on top unit, but the evidence below indicates it's a "3904"

 

Edited August 19, 2017 by JRHaelig (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

Your original pump is one of these (AC pumps):

 

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Your IV idea is a good one, however keep in mind that it's gravity flow only so you may not get to proper bowl fuel height. What I do is to use a fuel pump emulator, i.e. I use a small glass jar with a tight sealing lid, put in 2 barb/barb brass fittings in the lid and seal well with Epoxy or JB Weld, on one put a rubber hose inside the jar to the bottom. To use, fill with gasoline and put on the lid tightly, put a hose onto the fuel pickup side of the jar into the carb and hook the other barb to a hand air pump. Pump up to specified pressure (4 to 5 lbs for yours) and have a helper keep pumping while you run the engine. Works good, I have even done this under way.

 

Cheers, Dave

[39BuickEight]

22 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:

Actually, If the arm just landed in the pan, it will do no harm to stay there. It certain ly wont get sucked into the oil pump. I'd be tempted to just leave it there and install a new pump.

 

However, and important question - why did the arm break off in the first place? Are you sure it is correct for your engine?

 

"Are we having fun yet?"

This has happened at some point on both my car and my parts car.  My car had the same part in the pan when we disassembled it.  My parts car included a box of "replaced parts" that included a pump with the same piece broken.  It seems fairly common to me????

[DonMicheletti]

I dont think I had never  heard of a fuel pump arm breaking off before. I have had several straight 8 Buicks since 1960.

 

I wouldnt call it common.

 

Others?

[39BuickEight]

The 1939 248 pump is unique though, isn't it?

[Spinneyhill]

Type 422 (1521838) is the same as 518 (1523868). Used on Buick 1936-39 60, 80, 90, according to Interchange manual.

 

3927 and 3687 used only on the model shown above.

 

1523703, type 504, only on series 40 after 54,000.

 

Each line above uses a different overhaul kit (less arm). Only the kit for #504 was available with arm. No other pump used that repair kit with arm.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 20, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)