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Holy Cow!


fordrodsteven

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I am currently working on my transmission. If any of you remember I was changing the park / neutral start switch because I had code E031. When I tried to loosen the nut (which was pretty difficult to reach with my X-large hands) the whole shift shaft spun around 360 degrees. I figured I must have broken something inside on the shift linkage. SO here I am with the transmission out and will be dis- assembling to fix the shift shaft.

I plan to sell this car once I get the transmission back in. So I decided to start writing down the things I have reworked / fixed since I got this car. All I can say is.... Holy Cow!

check out this list!

new cruise control module

new complete exhaust (custom made /installed)

new headlight bellcranks

new headliner material (although it is a lighter shade than original sagging liner)

Replaced fuel fill tube and gas tank straps

replaced the radio module (original made a lot of static)

re-solder the wiring connections under the seats

had an open seam in the driver's seat re-stitched at the upholstery shop (about an inch long)

new hood lift / support rods

new ABS accumulator ball

new A/C compressor, receiver dryer, accumulator, orifice and convert to 134A

new A/C evaporator

new power steering pressure switch

new brakes all around

four new tires

replaced whole rear axle beam assembly and new mount bushings

new cradle mounts / bushings

replace the ECM (turns out that wasn't my problem so I still have the original)

new coil, ICM, plugs and wires

new MAF sensor

new front sway bar links

new intermediate and rear parking brake cables

 

Now in process of transmission rebuild and at this same time I will be replacing these items

new front brake hoses

new front ball joints

new front lower control arm bushings

new front control arm stabilizer rod to frame bushings

new CV joint outer boots (both sides)

 

Since I got the car I have driven it very seldom. I have probably put on a total of 5,000 miles in 5 years. It had been repainted before I got it. It is rusted under the plastic covering over the rocker panels.

Just.... HOLY COW!

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It's amazing how replacing car parts can add up. I have done a number of those same repairs [and others] sometimes twice due to miles and while I was "there" however on the Red it was over 150,000 and 11 years not 5000 miles.

 I know you want to sell but you may want to consider the Rack and Pinion [and of course an alignment] 

 Someone will get a real nice car when you are done with it...

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And this drives home my point from the other thead about keeping a Reatta and enjoying it once you have spent a small - or maybe large - fortune getting it decent. I admire your determination and willingness to do all that, and of course you already know it will not pay off (in terms of being able to turn a profit) on reselling the car.

 

I realize you really want to get your 55 done, and that too is a worthy goal. At this point however, selling the Reatta still leaves you with a likely substantial loss. Unless you have no room for it, or really need what proceeds can be had from selling it for the '55 project, why not keep and use it? If you don't, someone else will benefit quite nicely from your efforts. That's fine too, but seems a shame to unload it after all your work and investment.

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Yeah, you can check out any time you like, but you can never leave. Then again, you get to look forward to driving the ol' 55.  I hear seven bridges road is a nice drive in the fall...put in a SC 3800 and take it to the limit.

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You mentioned that you planned to replace the outer CV boots.  Not sure what they are getting for the CV boot replacement kits, but you might check out the cost of complete drive shaft replacements as they are really inexpensive (less that $50 ea at rock auto).

 

I feel your pain on the list!  It adds up, even over a fairly short period of time!  Many of us on this forum as long since put more into their Reatta than the value of the car justifies, but I would venture as well that everyone would do it all over again knowing up front the costs that were going to be incurred.  

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I actually enjoy driving the car but my wife doesn't even want to ride in it with me driving. She is with me most of the time and we either go in the MOPAR or the F150. When I bought the car it took me a couple years to get it roadworthy because I was working mostly double shifts at my job. My list up above is the culmination over five or six years.  I had convinced my wife it would be a nice car for her. She seemed on board. Then once I got it on the road a few little items had to be fixed. As far as she was concerned she felt the car would leave her stranded someplace. She drove it three times and never sat in the drivers seat again. I think she really doesn't like the car. She would prefer I get rid of it. You know..... happy wife - happy life. So I told her I would sell it and use whatever proceeds I got to put into the Thunderbird and at this time I just hope to get what I paid for the car initially and all the parts and labor are just lost. (Not unlike what happens with any other car.) She was perfectly fine with that. I had everything functioning satisfactorily and I put a "for sale" sign in the window. I was showing a friend the cool in dash display / troubleshooting system and I suddenly had the E031 code. I think the car was upset that I dared to put a "for sale" sign on it. So I started troubleshooting the code. It tells me it's the park / neutral start switch. The next step was to check the wiring by jumping two pins at the connector. I couldn't even get my hands in there to reach it. I decided if I had to dig that far to unplug it I might as well just change the switch at the same time and..... you know the rest of the story. That darn shift lever went around 360 degrees while trying to get the nut off the lever / switch.

In the end... If my wife was more agreeable to the car I would probably keep it and drive it maybe 1,000 miles a year.

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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You should do like I did, buy her a convertible. She wants to drive it all the time and I want to keep the miles off. Only thing she agreed to, was our German Shepherd is welcome in any of our other cars [The Red, The Black, or the Enclave] but not the 'vert as she could ruin the seats with her claws.

 Besides when you redo the T-Bird she runs the risk of that car not always being dependable either.

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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14 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

 Besides when you redo the T-Bird she runs the risk of that car not always being dependable either.

Come on! I do better work than that!  You almost hurt my feelings LOL. I'm not restoring it to original. I'm going to build it with more modern drivetrain components. (302 / automatic / newer rear differential than what's in there now)

 

I have found that my wife very much prefers the "driving Miss Daisy" routine since I've retired.

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, fordrodsteven said:

Come on! I do better work than that!  You almost hurt my feelings LOL. I'm not restoring it to original. I'm going to build it with more modern drivetrain components. (302 / automatic / newer rear differential than what's in there now)

 

I have found that my wife very much prefers the "driving Miss Daisy" routine since I've retired.

Yeah I went back and read that and almost put my foot in my mouth. It sounds like you know what you are doing but the failure probably won't be what you did but a part failing both new, rebuilt, or just wearing out through usage.

 If you have been over to Ronnie's site you will see that I just had an issue with the Red's recently installed engine that could have been a catastrophy due to negligence of a paid professional.

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How many miles were on this 1988?   Few of those things need replacing before 100K

Also some of them are related to being in the rust-belt, and would never need replacing if you were 500 miles south.

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4 hours ago, drtidmore said:

You mentioned that you planned to replace the outer CV boots.  Not sure what they are getting for the CV boot replacement kits, but you might check out the cost of complete drive shaft replacements as they are really inexpensive (less that $50 ea at rock auto).

 

A1 Cardone=

L $70.79 + S&H
R $64.79 + S&H

CV Outer Boot Kit=

Moog-  Thermoplastic= $11.73 + S&H
             Neoprene= $11.21 + S&H

 

I chose to reboot mine. "New" are actually rebuilt crap- nowhere near the quality of OEM. I had to reboot mine because the OEM thermoplastic boot was brick-hard, and was leaking around the seal, throwing grease all over. All the clamp in the world wouldn't hold it.

 

If you do reboot- be very careful to clean all of the old grease out. The supplied grease packet is not compatible with the old, and will quickly liquefy it.

 

Here's mine-

 

DCP_5585.thumb.JPG.e4a25f1702d7eecb0527613052d1d9a5.JPGDCP_5733.thumb.JPG.079b2e3654d86b17656d4132f2b38dd0.JPGDCP_5734.thumb.JPG.6e9fee288de9db66ab4bd8f0005dec75.JPGDCP_5736.thumb.JPG.b1c2828e504da66d7e63b757710ce4b6.JPGDCP_5739.thumb.JPG.6a885b94bc1fe0f1c4e47f2e2b09b89d.JPG

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19 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

How many miles were on this 1988?   Few of those things need replacing before 100K

Also some of them are related to being in the rust-belt, and would never need replacing if you were 500 miles south.

When I unfortunately won that E-bay bid the car had 182,000 miles on it. I bought it from a very ill man in October of 2011. It now has around 189,000 miles on it. I have done LOTS of work on this car to drive that 7,000 miles in six years.

Yes I know about being more south than where I am. I moved around the country a little during my work career. I used to own a VERY NICE '73 Mustang MACHI. I bought it in southern CA in 1989 and drove that car for 14 years.

I grew up here in the northeast and a little rust on cars does not scare me.

This Reatta seems to have had seen a pretty rough life before I got it. Like I said earlier the electronics make a lot of people run away and mechanically to work on it it's nothing really special. I feel I have saved another one from the junk yard because I actually like the car, It just doesn't fit my needs / wants. I'm going to get it fixed and hopefully find it a good home. If someone decides to buy it and tear it up for parts then that's how it goes.

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19 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

Are you suggesting he fix his cars, pack up in the middle of the night- and leave?

We did that move away around the country thing. Grew up in Lynn Massachusetts. With a job transfer (1989) we moved to southern California (RIverside). With a job layoff (1994) we relocated to North Carolina (Charlotte) and  built a new home (1995) in Rock Hill South Carolina. Another job cut and we decided to come home to Massachusetts (2005) and enjoy the comforts of almost all our family nearby.

All that time my 1955 Thunderbird traveled to each location. It didn't have engine / transmission when we left Massachusetts. I finally bought another car that I stripped out and put in my 302 automatic in South Carolina. I tell people that the car traveled 6,000 miles with no engine / trans in it! LOL

 

I hate winters but love family! I really like cars and motorcycles too!

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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20 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

the failure probably won't be what you did but a part failing both new, rebuilt, or just wearing out through usage.

 If you have been over to Ronnie's site you will see that I just had an issue with the Red's recently installed engine that could have been a catastrophy due to negligence of a paid professional.

Just the other day one of the guys at the Thunderbird brunch was lamenting about the poor quality of re-pop parts.

 

I've been following your thread and yes that engine rebuilder obviously didn't double check his work.

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A usual practice after an engine rebuild- is to go over every torqued fastener after the break-in period:

 

Main bearing caps

Rod caps

Oil pickup tube

Oil pan

Head bolts

Valve covers

Crank and Cam sprockets (or gears)

Timing cover

Water pump

Intake/exhaust manifolds

Throttle body/Carburetor

All hose clamps

Spark plugs

 

After a fastener is finally torqued- anywhere on a machine- use a bright paint marker, and make a line from fastener to across the fastened part. Then- it's easily seen if something is loose.

 

MARKED_FASTENER.png.cf08a4405cec42f048a0ef4ac901f06e.png

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So if I understand you correctly you remove the engine, get it rebuilt, reinstall it, then pull it again so you can check to make sure everything is still tight?

 I would follow that if the car manufactuers did that...

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On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 10:09 AM, DAVES89 said:

remove the engine, get it rebuilt, reinstall it, then pull it again

 

NO.

 

On ‎6‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 10:09 AM, DAVES89 said:

check to make sure everything is still tight

 

YES. That's all I advised.

 

Or- is it better to

 

On ‎6‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 7:45 PM, DAVES89 said:

wonder for many more miles what else he might missed

 

It's your Reatta- you be the Judge. 1 loose Cam Sprocket bolt, or all 3- and what else?

 

This is why I DIY and don't let others touch my cars. If something goes wrong- I've nobody to blame.

 

How long does it take to pull 2 valve covers, and the oil pan, visually check all fasteners?

 

It's your Reatta- you be the Judge.

 

http://www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/1311-top-15-engine-building-tips-and-tricks/

 

 

 

Edited by 89RedDarkGrey (see edit history)
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20 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

I think your REAL Friend, Kendall would agree-

 

unlike someone else who questions my every word, and has some mysterious hatred towards me, for some unknown reason.

That seems to be a jab at me because I do question some of the things you post that don't make sense. Let me set the record straight. I have no hatred for you or anyone else. I agree with Dave that you are trying too hard. You know a lot about Reattas, a lot more than I do for sure, but you don't have to dominate every conversation to prove it. I have no animosity toward you and I wish we could get along. You don't have to consider everyone an adversary that disagrees with what you post. Lighten up a little.

 

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