Stromberg UR-2 - how to get these pipes apart? -> success!

[Rockne33DLXRoadster]

I need to get the "Idle air pipe" and the smaller pipe beside out of housing.

Don't understand how they are fixed ?

Screwed in ?

pressed ?

 

Stromberg manual reads, the idle air tube can be removed for cleaning purposes,

but in my 2nd UR-2 both pipes are broken off (I have not done this).

 

Can anyone lead me in the right direction?

Thank you

Joe

Edited July 12, 2017 by Rockne33DLXRoadster (see edit history)

[mikewest]

Why remove them ? You need the correct number size drill bit to run through them to make sure they aren't stopped up, and blow out with compressed air. They most likely are threaded and are a bitch to get out . Your parts carb will need to be drilled out. If you don't have the correct tools to restore this carb , you should send to a professional to restore.

[Rockne33DLXRoadster]

this is my parts carb (UR-23 / different housing) on foto. I need the pipes for the other (correct UR-2) carb. since there both pipes are broken.

one way ist to change the pipes, second to make replicas from. 

i do have correct tools and machines, I restored a lot of carbs by myself but never a early Stromberg.

 

I think its better to ask, before destroy something.

[M29C3284]

They are screwed in, right hand threads. On the ones I have removed I glas blasted the housing first and then let is soak in WD 40 or a similar product for a few days. I then used small vice grip pliers to unscrew the pipes. With some careful back and forward movement they should loosen. You have to be very careful as they can easily break.

Also I would recommend removing them as the passages on the ones I have taken apart were all clogged up.    

[carbking]

Typical issue.

 

A carburetor is a classic example of a galvanic cell (2 dissimilar metals in the presence of a liquid). This creates ion flow, and corrosion molecules build up in what once was space between the threads of the jet and the cast iron body.

 

Solution:

 

Remove anything from the casting that will be harmed by heat (springs which can fatigue, zinc alloy which can explode).

Heat the casting in an ELECTRIC oven (we bought a toaster oven at the local junk-mart to cook carburetors) as hot as you can get it.

Remove the casting from the oven, and using an acetelyne torch, heat the cast iron casting in the vacinity of the jet(s) until the casting is cherry-red.

Put the casting back into the HOT oven. DO NOT QUENCH IN WATER!!!!!

Turn the oven off, and allow the casting to completely cool.

 

After this procedure, use the normal tool (screwdriver, whatever) and loosen the jet. Generally, after initial loosening, you can remove it with your fingers. Occasionally, some penetrating oil will help.

 

Why does it work? It is not the co-efficient of linear expansion, although that does aid the process. By heating to this temperature, one burns the oxygen from the corrosion molescules, changing the molecular structure, and reducing their size; thus allowing the threads to work as they were designed.

 

DO NOT USE THE ABOVE METHOD ON ALUMINUM OR ZINC ALLOY!

 

Almost always, the passages below the jets will be clogged and require the jets to be removed.

 

Jon.

 

[Rockne33DLXRoadster]

Hello Jon,

thank you so much for showing me the way to do - it works exactly as you described ! THANK YOU !

Since all oven I found only make max. 570°F I use two hot air blower. They can do 1.200°F.
Checked always the temperature with digital thermometer.
After I use a small acetylene/ air torch and the pipes and jets came out easily.

To turn the pipes I use a Crimp for steel wire clamps. The holes are exactly in diameter as the small brass pipes,
so they don't get bend.

Have to make a Repro from one pipe next week, then carb s ready for install.

thank you again
Joe

Edited April 30, 2017 by Rockne33DLXRoadster (see edit history)

[carbking]

Glad it worked for you. Have been using that method for more than 40 years, and very rarely do I have issues.

 

Jon.

[Rockne33DLXRoadster]

Since the idle air pipe from UR-2 was broken, and the pipe from UR-23 is longer,

we decide to make a new tip as insert for the UR-2 pipe. Made from bras,

fits perfect inside the Rest of the old part. Solder it together - Problem solved - works.

 

 

Edited May 3, 2017 by Rockne33DLXRoadster (see edit history)

[fh4ever]

job well done !!

[Rockne33DLXRoadster]

Gentlemen,

after rebuilding the carurator the car starts and runs like a brandnew 2017 car.

I have to pull the choke 1/2", short turning the starter - wroooom! Even with cold Engine!

Thank you so much for your help and advice!

Joe

Edited July 12, 2017 by Rockne33DLXRoadster (see edit history)

[Tom Devoe]

Just wanted to comment on the procedure for removing the stuck pipes.  I heated my carb in the oven (when my wife was gone) at 550 deg for 2 hours. removed it with tongs, then took it outside and heated the thread area with an MAP torch (plumping tool) since I don't have an acetylene setup.  Heated it for about 10-15 minutes until it just barely started to turn red.  Back in the oven to cool and presto, everything came out like butta!