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About M29C3284

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  1. Yes, he sure did. It took my dad 10 years to restore that car.
  2. Here's a few more pictures of body no. 1054, before and after restoration.
  3. Sorry for the late reply, but I have had a busy week. Anyway here's the pictures as promised.
  4. I will take a picture during the weekend, when I get back home.
  5. Really nice work on those carbs. I can only speak for the Rockne installation. It uses a setup where the return spring tension is adjustable. It quite strong even if it's not tensioned. And also the linkage it setup so that the throttle can't go past fully open and lock up.
  6. The Caswell black oxide will work perfectly, I used black oxide from Frost, same stuff as the Caswell kit, on one that I restored for my fathers 32 Rockne and it turned out great and it still looks great after three years. I dipped the whole bodies as that is how they did it originally. All the unrestored UR-2's that I have seen have just been black oxide finish, none have been painted. So I assume that is how they should be. Thought as you can see from the first pic that I have posted it looks like it has some paint on the lower body. So the choice is yours. Also you can see that there is a faint identification tamping on the top body near the fuel inlet elbow. Both are carbs pictured are stamped R-30 which means that they are for a 32 Rockne. What that the 4 and 2 stand for I have not figured out yet. I would not worry about sandblasting the bodies, if you use fine grit sand and blow all the passages out real thoroughly after blasting you should have no problem with clogging. I have also posted some general information and a parts list ,that I found on the net, for the UR-2 that might be of some help to you. Stromberg UR-2 and UUR-2 - Information.pdf Stromberg URO-1 UR-2 and UR-23 - Partscatalog.pdf
  7. These guys might help you out with the formula: http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/
  8. Hello I think the color you are searching for is Premier Maroon IM-375. But I think that if you want to match the color exactly you might need to get the color scanned or get a good painter to mix up a match. As most likely the paint on your car has faded slightly over the years and Premier Maroon straight from the can will not be a perfect match. I have also posted the 1932 Rockne colors.
  9. You can also have look and see if your engine has, what I believe to be, the engine assembly date, stamped just above the rearmost exhaust post on the block. The picture show the date stamped on one of my Weasel engines. But yours might be stamped somewhere else on the block. If your engine number is hard to read, you might also find it stamped on the flange on the block where the oil pan is attached. I have seen this on the Rockne and -32 Commander engines. But I don't know if this was done on the later engines as my Weasel engines doesn't have it.
  10. Are you sure that the casting date letter is G and not Q? Looking at the picture, it looks to me like Q. If it is Q then your engine block is cast, as Spinneyhill said, 12 April 1937. Studebaker started, to my knowledge, with the casting letters in 1921. So 1921 would be A, and following the alphabet G would be 1927 and Q is 1937. The Champion engine did not see the light of day before 1936, so your casting letter must be P or later. I have to M29C Weasel engines from 1944 that have casting year letter X, a 1933 Rockne engine with letter M, two 1932 Commander engines with letter L and a 1931 President engine with letter K. And also an M5 engine from 1947 that has 47 as the casting year code. So I guess the letter codes must have ended when they ran out of letters in 1946.
  11. Adjusting the valve clearances on the Rockne is not very hard, but it can be a bit tricky to reach the valve lifters nearest the carb. If you have some tappet spanners it will make the job much easier but it is possible to adjust the valves with regular spanners. You might need to grind down one of the spanners a bit though, when using regular spanners. The tappet clearances is as follows, quoted from the Service Specifications and Adjustment manual for the Rockne: "The recommended valve tappet clearances are: Hot - Exhaust .006", Intake .004"; Cold - Exhaust .007", Intake .004". Hot is considered approximately 150 degrees F or after the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Cold is considered as Room Temperature. Valve clearance should not be sacrificed to obtain quietness of operation.
  12. They are screwed in, right hand threads. On the ones I have removed I glas blasted the housing first and then let is soak in WD 40 or a similar product for a few days. I then used small vice grip pliers to unscrew the pipes. With some careful back and forward movement they should loosen. You have to be very careful as they can easily break. Also I would recommend removing them as the passages on the ones I have taken apart were all clogged up.
  13. The UR-2 is supposed to be blackened. There are DIY kit available for this. As for the fuel pump I think it is originally glossy natural zinc finish as it's made from a zinc alloy. But over time it will become grey as the surface oxidizes. To restore the original finish you can zinc plate and blue/natural passivate it. Or just paint it silver.
  14. That's too bad. I have attached two pdf files with some information that might help you out. Alexander Stromberg UR-2 and UUR-2 - Information.pdf Stromberg URO-1 UR-2 and UR-23 - Partscatalog.pdf
  15. I would hesitate to use the UR-23 as a donor for parts as it's is very hard to find as it was only used on the 1934 Dictator. And it doesn't have the same jets as the UR-2. I have restored two UR-2 carbs and they are not that hard to restore your self it you have a good one to start with. The parts that are usually bad are the springs for the accelerator pump and the venturi which is made out of pot metal, a zinc based metal, which deteriorates over time. I made a new venturi from aluminum. And of course the parts I have mentioned are never included in the repair kits that are available. Can you open the UR-2 and see how it looks like inside? Alexander from Sweden