fh4ever

Since you mentioned it, there were 3 sets of tacks nailed into the wood about where the top spring wire went...(one set in the middle and the other two near the outer edges). Very little fabric remained under the tack heads. These may have been the hold down loops you mentioned. It is more obvious to me now the seat springs would need these loops in place, before the top "flap" is pulled tight and wrapped over and nailed down on the rear. I got this pic off of the internet....its not mine but it shows how the seat should look. That corner where the white trim is tucked under looks tricky. That trim is vinyl wire on welt. The tacks on mine holding it in place appear to stop where the curve starts. Any secret to keep the ends from pulling out of place?

hope this helps to explain it

hi all, I finally bought a sewing machine and started my seat upholstery. I started on the back seats as they had the most original material left that I could use as patterns. They turned out great for a beginner. On to the front seats.... I got the front seat bottom and the " seat wooden frame" covered and they look great too. However, I am having some issues on the front seat back spring portion. This is the spring section that supports the driver's back. I had little or no useful original material left and had to go on my own with it. It appears this spring section was covered with material by hog rings on the two sides and the bottom. Looks like you have to leave enough material on the top to stretch over the wooden seat frame and fasten it to the back side of the wooden frame. This spring portion has a couple of tabs on the bottom of its frame that inserts at the bottom into slots or pockets (in the wooden frame) to hold the bottom of the spring frame in place. (keeps the bottom of the assembly against the wood frame as well as prevents it from going down any farther) My question is...what holds the top of the spring in place....I am sure folding the upholstery over the wood frame keeps the springs from separating from the wooden seat frame. However, if you pull the top upholstery material (to tighten the upholstery) up and over the wood frame, you lift the spring frame out of its lower pockets. It appears the top of the spring frame needs to be anchored prior to stretching the material over the wood seat frame. Does this make sense? Any tricks I might be missing on the front seat to get the upholstery tight?

The banjo wheel does have style...gotta love it! I have the "Chassis Parts Catalog" 1934-1936. Looks to be an original copy with worn and tattered edges. My horn ring is broke on the center ring. You had previously mentioned you were a welder....and the pot metal ring could be tig welded. Do you think the chances of success is good with an experienced welder? I have a tig but I know I will ruin it for sure. I have thought about the "Muggy Weld pot metal solder". I am missing the parts that go on the horn wire...but I think I could come up with something for those pieces. And the other parts I need are 1310-35B and 1310-12D...which seem to be available.

you are looking for 1310-24A in the illustration? I do see part number 197602 on page 439 which is for a 9A (what I have). Mine is cracked and I have not looked for anyone to weld it yet. But I am interested to see if you can find one. I still need the spring clip 195462

I too needed that info until I seen it in the '39 shop manual. It shows a cutaway view of the steering wheel assembly. One half of the view is the standard steering wheel, and the other half is the phantom wheel. The view is not the best and I used a magnifying glass to help see the blurry detail....but I think what you need is all there. I assume the phantom horn ring is made of pot metal, and not alum. One of my spokes is cracked and I was wondering how to weld it back together.

wow!....I was browsing youtube last night, and I ran across the video of you guys in the mud. I applaud you all for driving these cars as if it were 1921 road conditions (poor and non existent) !! sure had to be brave to go off on such a journey! must have been a real adventure! Can you tell us more about the trip? Where was it? how many cars? (3 cars were in the video), was it a camping trip? (I am assuming the guy in the jeep posted the video?)

SC38dls.....ever get your '38 back on the road after the collision? speaking of '39 rear vent window rubber....I am still searching.

nice pics....got your primary colors in that photo....red, yellow, and blue sky !! CE looks good!

I just googled it and your right...there are other similar tools with adjustment. Something else I saw a while back but never checked on my new relined shoes ... the shoes should be co-radial (or arc'ed) with the drum. (snapshot is from another forum)

just throwing out numbers...it seems the tool is for new shoes and drums, not turned drums. ....or is there some adjustment on the tool for compensation?

sorry ...over thinking it again...on the "special tool" above....I assume it is for setting up a brand new brake drum (and shoes) for a given diameter. Could it even work on an 80 year old drum that has been turned .020", .040", or even more ? does the tool have a way to compensate for the true diameter of a turned drum?

Sometimes I tend to overthink it too ! I did set my clearance by feel... but have thought about trying to make something similar to that tool. Another idea...The '51 ford pick up uses a slot in the face of the brake drum ...just large enough for a feeler gauge. I cut a new slot on a replacement drum once...always felt nervous about weakening the drum but it made major and minor adjustment easy.

My shoes were probably lined with the later material....I had one of the reputable folks online here do the relining. On page 349 of the chassis parts list book, they show the equal length shoe linings on the B and C cars, and the short/long shoe linings on the 1A thru 10A cars. If you look on page VI, they show the B and C cars were '34 and '35, and the 1A thru 10A as '35 thru '40....if I am reading it correctly. And the fact that your shop manual and my '39 shop manual shows the short lining in the rear, I would conclude it originally came from the factory that way. I believe those engineers at the time were quite smart and had a mathematical reason for long and short linings, as well as dual diameter wheel cylinders to equal out forces and equal wear on each shoe. I am now more than ever tempted to cut my rear shoe linings to a shorter length to make it match the factory books.

This question on shoe length has always puzzled me. My shoes came back relined with equal length lining as opposed to a short/long lining like the manual shows. I found some articles on shoe length design and drew my own conclusions rather than other's opinions....see my post #15 at the bottom of: https://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/forum/your-studebaker-forum/tech-talk/1963077-1939-coupe-express-president-et-al-brake-shoe-adjustment Install them the way the shop manual shows.