Jump to content

fh4ever

Members
  • Posts

    180
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

1,022 profile views

fh4ever's Achievements

1,000+ Points

1,000+ Points (3/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

8

Reputation

  1. Wow....what a find!!! I'm with nvonada...dont change a thing....love that patina!! Body looks straight! more pics please !!
  2. I haven't researched it anymore, but quite confident I can find something that will work, just may not be the same style as mentioned above.
  3. almost forgot.... SC38DLS...can you post pics of your button assembly as it is going back together? My button is deteriorated and half missing, I may eventually get another one. It appears the button is supposed to be pushed in and turned to lock in but I cannot be sure this is how it is. Also, I might have another part missing as I cannot tell if a spring keeps the button raised, nor can I tell where the wire is connected. any pics you can provide would be appreciated. hopefully your 38 is about the same as the '39, mine is the phantom wheel similar to yours. thanks
  4. apologies for hijacking this thread.... +1 on the rear quarter vent window rubber seals for the '38 /'39! however, I did talk to Shrock Bros about these a couple of years ago and they did not have them....I even asked if they would like to use mine as a pattern to make the molds and the reply was they were trying to downsize. They are good folks and we talked for while...he said if I ever catch up with him in Carlisle he would give me pointers on making a mold and casting the rubber. I feel fairly confident in making a mold, its the shrinkage of the old rubber (outside lip) and the cracks that would need to be filled in order to have a good pattern to go by. And you would have to pour a mold twice since the left and right sides are different...doubling the cost. I almost believe I would have to cast a hard plastic seal (using the old seals as the pattern) so that I can do "bodywork" on it (adding material and filling in cracks, sanding smooth, etc)....then this would become the new pattern. Another thought would be to 3D scan the old seals and then add material to them in the cad software and 3D print the pattern. I already know the Ford seals might can be used, but their outer lip does not lay flat against the body. Sealer would have to be applied under the lip to seal it. ideas/ comments appreciated...thanks
  5. Robert...you may remember and already checked on this lead....."hsperf was parting a '39 about a year ago, his post indicated a second parts car too." are the two doors different from the 4 door?
  6. i remember that car...I was there too!!! I was looking at the interior thru the passenger window (left side) and the semiphores almost hit me in the head when Mike operated them ! Nicely done car too.
  7. here are pics of my '39 interior door handles for comparison...they appear to have the same shape as what the body catalog page 62 shows (26958P). The window cranks have that same cross pattern on the surface as the door handles. Interesting to me as I never noticed before, there appears to be a black plastic coating or heavy paint remaining on the end and more on the underside at the opposite end. Were they not bare metal? George, I am looking at the body catalog page 62...#1 might be 2117-40A ( for a 3A, 4A), its difficult to tell on #2 and #3, the catalog only shows an illustration of one length handle matching that shape and its 2117-40E (G to 5G). Perhaps one of yours will fit anyway? if the boss dimensions are needed, I can easily measure mine to see if any of your handles might work.
  8. hsperf was parting a '39 about a year ago, his post indicated a second parts car too. I can find the link to his post if you need it. I might have a couple but they will be rough as they were in a fire long ago....I wont bother looking unless asked to.
  9. rbk mentioned the ford front wheel cylinders...I thought I would post a pic of the front piston mod i had to do on a '39 commander. The piston on the left is obviously the original. The middle is the un-modified ford. The one on the right is modified by machining the notch down to achieve the same thickness as the original. I could have removed the entire center boss....but I opted to use the ford rubber boot since it was supplied (if my memory is correct). I had the rear wheel cylinders sleeved and made new rear pistons.
  10. hi all, no replies yet...so I am bumping this to the top . thanks
  11. hi all, I finally ordered the '41 to '46 ford rear quarter vent window seal (19A-7229904/5B) for my '39 commander. I immediately started comparing it against my original. After some head scratching, I thought I would seek out help on this before I do anything like cutting and gluing.....or sending them back for a refund. First of all, the Ford window is much larger and some cutting/glueing was expected. However, I did not realized it was going to take 3 cuts to get the hinge pins and the latch slot to align. It would require a cut on the side, top and bottom!!! The next issue is the rubber lip that should go over the body seam flange...it goes outward some...creating about a 3/16" gap between the body flange and the rubber lip. Since everyone likes pics..... here is the seal raised to show you the body flange.... here is the seal pushed down over the body flange...you might be able to see the 3/16" gap between the rubber lip and the body flange. Even if the rubber lip is pulled down, it still appears to be a little short and part of the body flange may be exposed. Yes the window frame is not there...so that would pull the seal towards the inside of the car about the thickness of the body flange...reducing the 3/16" gap slightly. I intentionally did not put the seal in the window frame as it may get scuffed (in case I have to send it back for a refund). In my Aug 1,2018 post, I stated where I compared my '39 seal to a '38-'40 Ford seal part number 81A-7329904. It really looked like a match except for the outer "flange lip". The distance between the pivot pins were identical...I think the latch slot was even in the same place....meaning that only one cut would be required. But the outer rubber lip appeared to go straight outwards and not down over the body flange. I also compared the '37 Ford (no match), Rumors are this Ford seal '41-'46 (19A-7229904/5B) has been used successfully on the '39 commander. If anyone out there knows anything about fitting the Ford seal , please let me know how it was done.
  12. Thanks Robert for reviving this post........I am not not sure if the original post is for the front or rear vent windows...but I am still looking for the rear vent window rubber for the '39 commander. I cant tell from my body catalog if the 40 is the same as the '39. I understand a late 30's ford rubber can be made to work for the '39. My rubber is intact but it has hardened and has "splits" along the outside lip. If I knew more about casting these from the originals, I might would give it a try.
  13. you are correct, I forgot about the snowy climates...if the car was stuck in the snow, we would jack the car up to put the tire chains on. And with the snow, the ground was already wet and soft, and probably not level since you were stuck!
  14. that body appears to be straight...wonder how rusty the underside is?
×
×
  • Create New...