• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About fh4ever

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    South Carolina
  • Interests:

Recent Profile Visitors

900 profile views
  1. Hi rbk, I thought I had better not wait any longer to ask..... on my '39 commander, I am missing some items on the horn button assembly of my banjo style wheel. I have the part that bolts to the steering wheel ...illustration 1310-35B push button contact (#195460) and 1310-24A horn ring (#197602). I also have the metal cap 1310-40B (#195513) looks like I need......would you have these? snap ring 1310-27 (#195462) button with emblem 1310-12D (#195515 black or #196631 cream) I am also having trouble understanding what holds the horn ring to the wheel ....and without a compression spring, what holds the horn ring off of the contact area? Can anyone explain how this works?
  2. hiya 37S2de, your skill level sounds a lot like mine. As you are probably aware, the smaller beads present less of a problem....but these wide beads wreak havoc on the panel!! The groove in the female coin tool is about 2mm wider than the female rolling die....certainly not intentional.......and I believe this extra space made it more forgiving. I would have used the same outside diameter blanks for both coin tool pieces, but it was all I had..that is why the male is smaller than the female. I really hesitated buying the english wheel as I thought this might be a one time use, let's hope that is not the case! I am starting to get a little too old too...to try some things, but its only now I have the means that I can give it a try. Spinney...both my grand-dad's car and mine have these headlights....it wasn't till I joined this site I realized these are '40 headlights. I guess someone changed them out over the years. I modified the park light socket to use the double filament bulbs so I have turn signals at four corners.
  3. thanks for the kind words. I studied up on it a good bit, made my own wide rolling dies, did about a dozen samples, and went for it. You are right, the panel really does want to warp. I followed a post on the H.A.M.B. that helped me out a lot. Pre-stretching on an english wheel helps, but as you can see, I still have the potato chip edge on the right side of the panel (no attempts made at that point to flatten it). The coining tool also helped to flatten it out some....and then heating it and shrinking it helps. Here you can see more of the coining tool I made. The long flat bars (welded together on the left) keeps the two halves aligned.... and it had to be that long to fit over the panel. The large diameter of the 2 halves should also help flatten the surrounding metal at the end of the bead. I placed a center mark on the back side of the bead... and aligned it with the the hole to center the tool on the bead. A press would have been great but I have none with a large throat....so 2 or 3 blows with a heavy hammer worked just fine. and here is the back side of one of the last test samples before moving on to the real deal....notice the center marks for tool alignment. And the attempt to shrink the edges which did help.
  4. one more pic....here she is freshly bathed after all that dusty work.....now ready for the front and back glass, and upholstery.
  5. before I could really get started on the "tool box" work, the rear valance needed a lot of attention, both on the inside and outside....I had to completely replaced the lower 1-2" and the weather strip channel. Here it is just before the floor work began.
  6. fabricated the floor, had to make the male and female "coining tool" for the ends of the "wide" beads. finished floor in primer !!!....
  7. i cut out the trunk floor, the curved section just behind the seat, and the "tool box". closet matching thickness seems to be 20 ga, first, the tool box" goes back in...
  8. hey cowtown, I am back on the door latches.....(see post above )....PM also sent.......can you send me pics of the latches?
  9. nice!! wish mine was a coupe. dont mean to hijack, but are there supposed to be bushings in the holes where it attaches to the hood? It appears mine have some sort of shoulder screw and no bushing. I cannot seem to find this in parts catalog either. Bushing sure would make sense. Can you guys expand on this or point me to the parts catalog page? BTW...I might could use the drivers door latch...or the right rear...which might be in better shape...aren't they the same? I like the photograph with the old trucks in the pics too...cool!
  10. I have a left side...same as photo, but the upper arm is broke off just beyond the spring holes. Where are you located? any pics of the parts car?
  11. an option to Gary's suggestion would be maybe to cast it. Here is a link where a headlight glass was cast with resin. www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMe9MOBjkmc&feature=youtu.be&rel=0 The problem would be that you would need an original to make the pattern by. The mold materials are not that cheap either. Wonder how clear and smooth it would be for an instrument gage?
  12. I need to replace what is left of the trunk floor above the gas tank on the '39 commander. Anyone know what ga steel was original? 20 ga seems close but there is not much left to get a good measurement. The undercoating preserved the rest of the floor very well. However, it was not coated above the gas tank and that area is now Swiss cheese. I can recognize where the beads are rolled into the floor and I will be duplicating those for strength. I can cut it out to the good steel and maybe get a better measurement, but I thought I would seek advice here first. I want to make sure it is not too thin that it will sag and rest on top of the gas tank. ...or too thick making it harder to work. thanks
  13. DMV would be the best place to ask but they still may not give it to you straight the first time....for example, I called them about putting a salvaged titled car on the road, and was told it had to have "rebuilt" which meant documentation and inspection by the DMV. I later found out I was good to go with just the title designated as "salvage" and no further action was needed. As far as lien holders is concerned....I think they may put "undisclosed liens" on the title . Be sure to ask about that.