63viking

Rear suspension

42 posts in this topic

Has anyone lowered the rear suspension, or tried to?

I would like to hear from anyone who has attempted to.

I have some ideas, but would like other input.

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There are different things you can do to "lower" the rear, but most of them will affect the camber and unless you want to replace tires more often, then they are not the best option.

The most work, but probably the best overall method would be to reconstruct the rear mounting so the entire rear suspension unit could be moved up.

You could simply remove the rubber mounts, that would lower it over 1 in but there would be a substantial increase in road noise.

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Ok, What about removing the rubber blocks and cutting them in half the long way, and putting the cut piece on the top of the spring?

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That won't work, It will raise the car. The only way to lower it is to remove some of the ark for the spring.

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That would work if you could find some that would work on the Reatta.

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Check these out, and call or email these friendly Folks- even though not specifically listed- something might be available?

 

WEBSITE

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the two ways i was looking at was narrow the spring by cutting off some off one side or attach a link to the center of the spring and hook it to the crossmember below. shortening the link will lower the car.in other words pull down on the center of the spring and cause the outer ends to rise.maybe use a shackle designed to use with lift blocks.

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Posted (edited)

89 reddarkgrey;   That would be great IF they had anything that would fit. But they don't even list Buick.

Edited by 63viking (see edit history)

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Yes, Handmedown, That's what I was thinking. You might get a rough ride but it could work.

I also was going to try and shave the leaf down to 3" across just after the mounting and see if that would weaken it enough to lower it.

If I used a shackle type of pull down I am wondering if the spring ends would bottom out against the suspension?

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i was going to narrow a spring a while ago.i even bought a used spring.i think a table saw and right tooth blade will work.then i saw what a bitch it is to swap springs.

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I had the same idea. Got my spare spring from J. Finn. Now I thinking of trying the shackle idea.

First Idea was to drill a hole thru the spring, put a plate on top and on the bottom of the cross member and use a piece of threaded stock thru.Then use a lock nut on the top and one on the bottom. (I am not sure of drilling a hole in the spring)

The only other way to do it would to make two L shaped pieces out of threaded stock and hook them over the spring, drill two holes in the cross member. Run a plate under the cross member with two 

holes lined up and put nuts on them .

What do you think?

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I think you may be taking the wrong approach to lowering the Reatta in the rear by modifying the spring. If it were me I would be looking at how to move part #7 up higher on part #6 in the diagram below. That way you avoid changing the geometry of the rear suspension and all the other problems that can pop up - like running out of shock travel, camber that can't be corrected, spring breaking and you name it..

 

If you take part #6 and #7 to a good machine shop and explain what you want to do, they could possibly make an adapter - or modify part #6 - so you could bolt the spindles on higher up which will drop the car. It would have to be done a way that would move both the spindle and the brake parts up to keep them in alignment. 

 

I've had dropped spindles on the front of my '99 S10 Blazer for 10 years. I've had no problems with alignment or otherwise. I was able to buy the drop spindles for my Blazer but with a little engineering and a good machinist I think something could be made for the Reatta that would drop it.

 

Going this route would be a lot less work for you than changing how the spring mounts although it might be more expensive. I don't like the idea of modifying a spring

 

58a86e4017ca9_suspensiondiagramrear.jpg.b8501c34c6d51e6faa12e77c4d4d208f.jpg

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So your vehicle isn't down- or use your own- clean it up nicely, box it up, and ship it:D

 

I bet one of these companies know what you want.  I think Ronnie is 100% correct here:D

 

COMPANY #1            COMPANY #2 

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There's only one problem with Ronnie's idea.  What about the gear for the ABS?

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Ronnie might be onto something....a steel plate between #6 & #7  could be made...

#6 bolts to #7 so if you could move the mounting holes up on the adaptor plate it would lower the rear to any amount you choose.

The only unknown is where and how the caliper mounts, if it mounts on #6 then you would need to make the adaptor plate have the needed holes to mount the caliper.

Lets say you used 1/2 thick steel plate (that should be strong enough) that would also move the rear wheels to the outside 1/2 inch on each side.....with stock rims and tires that should not be a clearance problem.

I don't have the higher math skills but moving the wheels out also changes the loading on the stock spring and that may also cause the rear to set a little lower.

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I repeat.  What about the gear for the ABS?

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The ABS Reluctor Ring is part of the Hub. When they make you custom spindles- all the mounting holes are duplicated. Your Hub is plug-n-play.

 

58a88f769d0f4_ABSRELUCTORRING.thumb.JPG.c9abb269e6ca438a44f24ce5d0a0a4be.JPG 

58a88fa33c9ed_REARABSSENSOR.thumb.JPG.9c38b94d42ed8e1bffb1b337bc5cb1c7.JPG

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1 hour ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

So your vehicle isn't down- or use your own- clean it up nicely, box it up, and ship it:D

 

I bet one of these companies know what you want.  I think Ronnie is 100% correct here:D

 

COMPANY #1            COMPANY #2 

 

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It looks like Barney has a point about the brakes and Viking about the ABS, so, part #6 either needs to be extended in length to where it bolts to #7 or alternatively, extend the lower mount of #6 where it bolts to the lower control arm. That would reduce the travel available in the strut by the same amount but I don't know how close it is to bottoming to start with.

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Here are a couple of ideas that may cause you to loose some sleep.

Neither would change the spring rate, they just raise the wheel location (or if you prefer...lower the body)

The left one puts a spacer on the lower "A" arm outer mount....since there would be two potential pivot points...one must be made so it cannot pivot.

The sketch on the left is the adaptor plate mentioned above.  The adaptor would need a big hole in the center for the ABS wheel and some way of attaching the ABS wheel sensor.

The plate would also need to have provisions for mounting the brake caliper etc.  This would move a stock wheel out the thickness of the adaptor, that could be corrected with aftermarket wheels with a different offset.

In both cases...the amount you can lower the car is controlled by the wheel diameter,   in both cases, as the wheel goes up in relationship to the lower "A" arm...the end of the "A" arm gets closer to the inside of the rim.

All of this would take some good layout, precision machining, and possibly trial and error.

REATTA REAR.jpg

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The spacer idea is pretty much what I meant and I like your sketch, something I sadly lack. My thought was to weld the extension to the bottom of the original part. Essentially material added to the bottom machined with the proper bolt holes. No worry of the extra pivot point. The point about wheel clearance is well taken. It will also raise the anti-sway bar mount since the mount on the strut will be higher, but I have no idea if that would need to be addressed as well.

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Posted (edited)

With all this sketching and guessing and theory- I'm guessing my idea of simply having new lowered spindles and knuckles made by a reputable company that specializes in this- is totally out of the question?

 

If so- why?

 

Custom Fabricated Spindles

 

Another Company, with details

 

As said before- remove your parts, clean them, box them up- then ship out.

Edited by 89RedDarkGrey (see edit history)

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No... your idea of having a new spindle made is what J Leno would have done.....you get it engineered, designed, cast or machined from a big chunk of steel, drill, tap, etc  ...I try to think of solutions for the more average owner...someone that

might have a few less resources.

The adaptor plate would be the simplist solution from material availabity, but even then having a shop cut, add the holes etc could be expensive....unless you happen to have a mill in your shop.

I know a guy that just changed the steering on his '32 Ford (hot rod) from a Vega steering box to a rack...one custom made 90 degree 1/4 inch bracket cost $120 from a local machine shop...simple with little tolerance.

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20 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

the more average owner...someone that

might have a few less resources.

 

Supercharged Handcrafted Luxury for two.

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and

"mental illness.

The "GSX" has arrived.

1990 coupe, Silver.

Nickmane "QUICKSLIVER"

 

I'm sorry... THIS CAR isn't an average Reatta:rolleyes:

 

58ab6d656353e_AVERAGEREATTA.JPG.7e1bb1bfb8ba0e1a52f259e4ff820cde.JPG  And Jon isn't an average ownerB)

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