Rufcar Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 In an earlier thread we talked about loosing vacuum with a higher cam. That said where can I find a proper vacuum booster that would be proper for my 65 riv gs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I bought a vacuum canister from JEGGS. I have not installed it yet so cannot comment on if it restored my power brakes back to where they were before larger cam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rufcar Posted April 9, 2015 Author Share Posted April 9, 2015 Coast. I have seen many on line , some run off the front belts others are electric. Hoping to find an electric one I can mount away from the engine. It has not effected my brakes buy rather my account and heat as I don't have enough vacuum to hold things open very long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Yikes, I did not even think about all the other things that are vacuum driven.. My A/C and heat are not working yet so that issue has not smacked me in the face yet. Let me know if you find a good solution. I sure wish I would have gone back with the original cam spec... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Stoneberg Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Good thing about the 64's if I remember correctly is that without vacuum the A/C is stuck on full cold. Depending on where you live, that is not a bad thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 On the 1983 Riviera XX's that I owned, the power brakes were not vacuum assisted; they got their assist from a hydra-boost system. I don't know to what means you're ready to go to get assist to your brakes, but this could be an alternative.http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/operation-diagnosis-and-repair-of-hydro-boost-power-assist-systems/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coast Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 I finally got around to installing my vaccum tank today. It worked great, got my brakes back to where the were prior to the cam install. Cheap, easy fix! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rufcar Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 How much vacuum should I have at all locations when I test? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 How much vacuum should I have at all locations when I test?About 18 or 19 inches is normal depending on camshaft specs. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rufcar Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Tom my car is still in the paint shop (6) MONTHS. When I last tested it I had about 8 or 9 in all ports and spent a zillion hours getting thing to even attempt to work. Then I read about the cam. The PO put in a cam and I never knew this would effect the output. That's why I am looking for a vacuum pump that could solve the problem. The brakes are fine. I ran a new line to make the trunk lock work but I had to bypass the unit and run a direct line with a valve to make the heater control valve work. I can get the actual to go one if I help the vacuum valves by hand. The compressor and dryer are new and the lowest temp I get is 55. This whole vacuum system has been the most complicated system to work I have ever encountered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Tom my car is still in the paint shop (6) MONTHS. When I last tested it I had about 8 or 9 in all ports and spent a zillion hours getting thing to even attempt to work. Then I read about the cam. The PO put in a cam and I never knew this would effect the output. That's why I am looking for a vacuum pump that could solve the problem. The brakes are fine. I ran a new line to make the trunk lock work but I had to bypass the unit and run a direct line with a valve to make the heater control valve work. I can get the actual to go one if I help the vacuum valves by hand. The compressor and dryer are new and the lowest temp I get is 55. This whole vacuum system has been the most complicated system to work I have ever encountered. Measure your vacuum level at the manifold to establish a base line. If your brakes are OK that indicates to me you should have a high enough vacuum level to operate the hvac components. The system is not that complicated, you shouldnt be having insurmountable problems. Isolate and test each component with a vacuum pump or hand held vacuum pump. You are probably losing vacuum at one or more components which is rendering all components non-op. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now