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1990 4T60 transmission shift module symptoms..


ptt

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I am not a transmission expert by any means, but it looks like no one else has a suggestion either. To the best of my knowledge, the modulator only has an effect on the shift firmness, by altering the internal line pressure. More vacuum = soft, less vacuum = firm/hard. To increase line pressure to maximum, disconnect and plug the vacuum line to see if it makes any difference in the ability for the transaxle to actually move. The throttle cable, which connects the throttle to the transaxle, will have a effect on the shift point. If the cable is disconnected, the trans. will shift up very early. If it is pulled out to the full throttle position, it will hold the gear much longer before it will shift.

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If it's not freewheeling and you feel the compression holding the car back the second gear clutch pack is probably good and the sprag is probably OK. The problem could possibly be a sticking throttle valve (or cable) or a problem with the governor. Few things I would try that might give you some indication of whats going on.

Make certain the Throttle Valve cable is adjusted properly and there is no indication of it sticking. If you open the throttle and the TV cable goes slack when you release the throttle you have a problem that will keep the transmission from shifting normally.

1. Put the shifter all the way down in the first gear position. Get on the throttle and run the engine up to about 3500 RPM and hold it there for a couple of seconds... Then shift into second then third by hand to see if it will shift. Report back here what happens.

2. I would add some SeaFoam TransTune additive, arm up the engine while shifting from reverse to drive and back in case it is a sticking valve. The car sitting overnight with the additive might help as well. I've known TransTune to help in some situations like yours.

You have nothing to lose and it won't cost you much.

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If it's not freewheeling and you feel the compression holding the car back the second gear clutch pack is probably good and the sprag is probably OK. The problem could possibly be a sticking throttle valve (or cable) or a problem with the governor. Few things I would try that might give you some indication of whats going on.

Make certain the Throttle Valve cable is adjusted properly and there is no indication of it sticking. If you open the throttle and the TV cable goes slack when you release the throttle you have a problem that will keep the transmission from shifting normally.

1. Put the shifter all the way down in the first gear position. Get on the throttle and run the engine up to about 3500 RPM and hold it there for a couple of seconds... Then shift into second then third by hand to see if it will shift. Report back here what happens.

2. I would add some SeaFoam TransTune additive, arm up the engine while shifting from reverse to drive and back in case it is a sticking valve. The car sitting overnight with the additive might help as well. I've known TransTune to help in some situations like yours.

You have nothing to lose and it won't cost you much.

Ill give it a shot and post results. Thanks!

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If it's not freewheeling and you feel the compression holding the car back the second gear clutch pack is probably good and the sprag is probably OK. The problem could possibly be a sticking throttle valve (or cable) or a problem with the governor. Few things I would try that might give you some indication of whats going on.

Make certain the Throttle Valve cable is adjusted properly and there is no indication of it sticking. If you open the throttle and the TV cable goes slack when you release the throttle you have a problem that will keep the transmission from shifting normally.

1. Put the shifter all the way down in the first gear position. Get on the throttle and run the engine up to about 3500 RPM and hold it there for a couple of seconds... Then shift into second then third by hand to see if it will shift. Report back here what happens.

2. I would add some SeaFoam TransTune additive, arm up the engine while shifting from reverse to drive and back in case it is a sticking valve. The car sitting overnight with the additive might help as well. I've known TransTune to help in some situations like yours.

You have nothing to lose and it won't cost you much.

I checked the throttle linkage today. It appears that the accelerator pedal cable and TV cable at the throttle body are operated in tandem? I opened the throttle body all the way anf released it and could hear the gas pedal "thump" back into place. Couldnt really decern if the TV cable was loose or not. Is it easier to see or tell if it is not working from under the car or at the other end at the transmission? Not really visible from above.

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Guest spongebob

i had ( and still do now) have a simular problem, i took it to the GM dealer to have the realys checked,, the guy told me there was a wire that was shorting on the frame..he taped around the worn wire and told me it may happen again....a couple years later and its doing it again..im going to climb under the car and check out what and where he taped the offending wire...

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There are also switches inside the transmission that tells the ECM which gear the transmission is in. I think they are used for ignition timing, emissions control, etc. As far as I know they aren't used to control the way the transmission shifts.

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The TV cable does move in tandem with the throttle but it connects to the transaxle vertically on the top side. It connects below the air intake hose. Nothing underneath. The gear indicator switches are also mostly on the top side and they all connect, along with the torque converter clutch, in a large plug at the top front of the transaxle. There are two or three switches, depending on model and the wiring runs under the trans. brace that connects to the drivers end of the engine. The switches do not control the trans. itself, they are only indicators as Ronnie stated.

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I havent had a spare minute to even lift the hood! I did look at the TV cable but couldnt tell if it was broken. It didnt seem to be binding though. I hope Im looking at the correct spot at the trans end of the cable at the top of the housing? Might get another look this PM and post results.

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New cable is needed if it is what is sticking. It could be the valve inside the transmission has a problem. Most likely it is the cable.

I've not changed a TV cable on one of these transmissions. The FSM describes removing it as disconnecting the cable at the throttle body, removing one bolt holding the cable at the transmission and unhooking the cable from a rod in the transmission. Fairly simple BUT... it shows the transmission side pan off in the illustration for replacing the cable. If the side cover has to come off it could turn into a big job getting it off. I would investigate to see if you can get replace the cable yourself.

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You might be in luck on replacing the cable. Another view of where the cable attaches to the rod shows the rod sticking up above the transmission case. If you take the old cable off you should determine if that it was what was sticking causing the slack in the cable.

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I have an FSM. Problem is its for the 1988 Reatta model year. Didnt those use the T440 style trannies? The question is did they change the TV-Cable by the 1990 model year? Never dealt with a TV-Cable before so another question is....is the return spring that may be the culprit part of the TV-Cable? Is the TV-Cable a "Dealer Only" part? Today the positive side-post lead threads stripped out on the Coupes battery...:mad:...when it rains it pours.

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The transmission in the '88 thru -90 are basically the same transmission. There were probably upgrades made as the years went by. I think the cable should be the same but I can't say for sure. The spring that pulls the cable back is inside the transmission.

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I did a quick comparison between my 90 coupe which is running and shifting find other than a rare shudder going into OD....and the errant 'vert. Both tv cables are slack at closedthrottle but the coupes tv cable is very taunt at WOT compared to the errant tv cable on the 'vert! The runniny/shifting coupe does occasionally shudder going into OD going up a slight hill though. A shadetree DIY friend stated to me he thought the tv cable only handled down shifts like for hwy passing. He is a mopar fan if that means + or -.........

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Ronnie, Id much rather stick with the help on this forum than the DIY MoPar guy! I have a few hours off call this AM so Ill be pulling the TV Cable out of the Convertible and see what develops. I will post results....

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Finally got some time free. I took the tv cable loose from the transmission casing and pulled it upwards. It feels like that end of the cable is attached and has spring return feel. Just slack when in closed tb status. Im beginning to think the worse case seanario.....

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Is the cable adjusted properly? There is a ratchet type mechanism in the mount at the throttle body. If you have the cable off, it is easy to see. You squeeze or press on the release button and pull the outer casing back through the mount. When everything is reinstalled, the cable will self adjust by pressing the throttle to the floor.

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It sounds like we are talking about two different symptoms. The torque converter clutch can lockup in third and fourth gear, so if being very gentle with acceleration it may feel like an extra shift. The signals from the transaxle gear indicator switches and TCC can be monitored in diagnostics to get a more definitive idea of what is actually happening. The TCC can shudder at the lockup point if operation is sticky. Sometimes can be cured with a fluid and filter change. I have not personally tried any sort of trans. oil treatment but it may help if a fluid change doesn't. The actual gear shift points can be modified somewhat by TV cable adjustment. Vacuum modulator modifies shift firmness.

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.....returning to my original subject...I locatesd the adjuster on the TB end of the TV Cable and it has a rubber boot encasing where the readjusting tang/button is. I pushed in on the tang/button and pulled the TV Cable towards the Throttle Body. It seemed to "ratchet" a number of times and I then stepped on the accelerator pedal inside the car as mentioned. I am out of time today and have to run to work. More later. Thanks all!

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The adjustment sounds backwards? It should ratchet when the throttle is pushed to the floor. The casing is pulled back away from the T/B and the cable pulls it back to the correct adjustment when the throttle is pushed. My car is in storage so I cannot verify.

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