bepnewt

I want an "original" carb -- 1964 Riviera

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    Brain,

 

      As an aside from the carb. do you have the aluminum block that screws into the back of the carb. with the PCV valve nipple, hose, clamps & PCV valve????  A fitting off that for the power brake booster pipe & hose & clamps to the power booster????  Also on the right rear side of the carb. angled to the right is the fitting for the trans. modulator valve. It's NOT just a regular OPEN fitting. It only has a hole in it of about .060" which is what regulates the vacuum to the modulator. Do you have the CORRECT fitting???

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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Not sure what's up with the messaging.  Maybe it has something to do with me just logging on the forums for the first time since the AACA upgraded them.  My maibox may have gotten fubar'd or something.

 

Check is in the mail.

 

-BEP

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How about the above questions??? Know what I'm talking about??? Do you have or can get these nec. parts???

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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If the items in question are different for each carb, then I probably don't have them.  I'll get a pic of what I have on the car now tomorrow.

 

Is any of that stuff on the carb in this pic?

 

 

Riv Carb Dirty.jpg

Edited by bepnewt (see edit history)

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Yes, you have the aluminum block with the PCV nipple & the brass fitting for the power brake booster. Now look at the r/rear of the carb. to see if you have another smaller fitting. IF you do, remove it & look to see if it has a small hole on the backside.

 

 

Tom T.

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The carb in that pic is now completely disassembled.  The mechanic that dunked it took it all apart.  I'll spread the pieces out on the table and see if I can find the pieces in question.  I'll probably have to take a pic and post it here.  I'll do it tonight if I get out of work at a decent hour.

 

Thanks Tom, for thinking of all the details.

 

-BEP

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20 hours ago, bepnewt said:

If the items in question are different for each carb, then I probably don't have them.  I'll get a pic of what I have on the car now tomorrow.

 

Is any of that stuff on the carb in this pic?

 

 

Riv Carb Dirty.jpg

From what I can see of the linkage on this carb, it's not a '64 carb.  The '64 carb has a roller on it that activates the transmission kick down switch.  What are the stamped numbers on the left front (as you view it from the front) bolt pad.  Do you know the correct number for a '64 425 AFB?

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This is a link to pics of the current carb on my 'Riv, the one I am replacing:

https://goo.gl/photos/Ea6iJ8ooTK4k2y9x9

 

This is a link to some pics I took tonight of the carb that was in the box after it was disassembled and dunked:

https://goo.gl/photos/BjU8wtu1AFLynrxT8

 

It looks like the disassembled one is 3665S, which I believe is correct for a '64 425 based on this page:

http://www.teambuick.com/reference/carburetor_numbers.php

 

9 hours ago, telriv said:

Yes, you have the aluminum block with the PCV nipple & the brass fitting for the power brake booster. Now look at the r/rear of the carb. to see if you have another smaller fitting. IF you do, remove it & look to see if it has a small hole on the backside.

 

Do the pics in the second link answer this question?

 

-BEP

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The center picture in the bottom row show the correct kickdown linkage for a '64.

 

The information in this chart is way too general. It shows numbers for '63 - '65 but they're not interchangable  The '63 has to have linkage for a mechanical kickdown rod, the '64 has to have the roller for the electrical kickdown, and the '65 has to have a pin on the linkage for the kickdown / switch pitch.  Three years - three different carbs.   DIfferent carbs for 401 and 425s as well.  Probably nothing more than the size of the secondary jets.

 

Open this link and scroll down to the bottom to see all of the '64 applications.  It shows two numbers for a '64 425 and your 3665 is one of them, the other is a 3635.  What's the difference?  I can't tell you but perhaps Jon "Carb King" Hardgrove can.  (He owns The Carburetor Shop from which I copied the link.)

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick2.htm

 

The attached picture shows the the roller on the carb and the push switch (orange rubber boot)  for the kick down.  This is on my '64 Riviera. At WOT, the roller will depress the switch and activate the kickdown solenoid in the transmission.Carb linkage and line details - '64 Riviera 001.jpg

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Picture #3 has the fitting I'm talking about on the R/Rear. Remove it, 1/2" box wrench to see if it has the small hole. If it does you now have EVERYTHING you need.

 

 

Tom T.

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If, when we're all done with this & are satisfied, rather than throwing that "bad" carb. away would you be interested in donating it for parts????

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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18 hours ago, RivNut said:

 

Open this link and scroll down to the bottom to see all of the '64 applications.  It shows two numbers for a '64 425 and your 3665 is one of them, the other is a 3635.  What's the difference?  I can't tell you but perhaps Jon "Carb King" Hardgrove can.  (He owns The Carburetor Shop from which I copied the link.)

 

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Kbuick2.htm

 

 

I checked my '64 chassis manual.  The 3635 carb is for a manual transmission car.  It sounds as if Tom has you on track to getting you set up with the correct carb.  Congratulations.

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I didn't get to this last night.  I set a reminder to do it this evening.

 

-BEP

 

On 7/26/2016 at 1:48 AM, telriv said:

Picture #3 has the fitting I'm talking about on the R/Rear. Remove it, 1/2" box wrench to see if it has the small hole. If it does you now have EVERYTHING you need.

 

 

Tom T.

 

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Brian,

 

   Just to let you know that your check has arrived.

 

Lets make further contact through my e-mail address & we can work out the details. 

 

telriv@yahoo.com

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... time passes ...

 

Tom came through with a beautiful carb for me a while back.  I finally have time to install it.  Should I put any gasket sealer on the main gasket?  If so, which side?

 

-BEP

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I was told no sealer by someone so I mounted the carb dry.  

 

I hooked the the hoses up by guessing based on the other Carter carb I'm replacing.  There's nothing hooked up to the brass-looking tube near the top on the back side.  There's also nothing hooked into the trans modulator valve.  

 

I shot a video showing what it looks like now.  When you have a minute, please take a look and see what I am missing or have incorrect. 

 

https://youtu.be/bdlKP2HOI6M

 

In the closeup pic Es posted above, there is a white plastic thing mounted to the manifold.  I don't have one of those.  Do I need one?

 

Thanks, all.

-BEP

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3 hours ago, bepnewt said:

I was told no sealer by someone so I mounted the carb dry.  

 

I hooked the the hoses up by guessing based on the other Carter carb I'm replacing.  There's nothing hooked up to the brass-looking tube near the top on the back side.  There's also nothing hooked into the trans modulator valve.  

 

I shot a video showing what it looks like now.  When you have a minute, please take a look and see what I am missing or have incorrect. 

 

https://youtu.be/bdlKP2HOI6M

 

In the closeup pic Es posted above, there is a white plastic thing mounted to the manifold.  I don't have one of those.  Do I need one?

 

Thanks, all.

-BEP

The tube at the top of the air horn is a fresh air supply for the hot air choke.  It should have a tube running to the bottom end of the tube running through the exhaust manifold.

 

The line for the transmission modulator is threaded to an outlet in the bottom back corner on the passenger's side.  

 

The hose screwed into the back of the intake is the supply for all of the vacuum needed for the heat and a/c controls in the console via the canister on the passenger side inner fender.

 

You have quite a bit of sorting out to do there my friend.?

Edited by RivNut
effing predictive text (see edit history)

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PS - I watched the entire video again and the threaded end you need for the transmission modulator is on the hard line connected to the hose coming from the intake.  The bright fitting on the bottom of the carb is the fitting into which the modulator line is screwed.  The tube at the air horn is not a vacuum line, it's just a fresh air supply.  It can stay "as is" and it will not effect anything.  I couldn't see the inner fender so I can't tell if you're missing the vacuum canister or if it is there how it's hooked up.

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Ed is correct in what he mentioned. Where the hose is hooked up to the manifold is where the vacuum is used for the HVAC controls. Remove that hose from the line & screw that line into the fitting on the r/rear of the carb. This runs down to the modulator valve on the trans. Run a vacuum hose from the fitting on the manifold to the black circular plastic canister on the right fender-well. The only other thing I noticed is the brake line goes UNDER the linkage NOT over as pictured. If the HOT air tube is not hooked up to the fitting off the choke housing the choke will NEVER open all the way.

I thought you were going to install the electric choke??? If you use the electric choke set-up you have you will need to block that inlet for the hot air supply or you will have a small vacuum leak. If you start the car & put your finger over the part you will feel a slight suction.

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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Thanks for the replies, guys.  I'll do more on this during this week, I hope.

 

Re: Choke - I said something in our email exchanges about an electric choke.  I had been watching general carb installation videos and they had electric so had it in my head that mine was electric, too.  It was a brain fart moment.

 

I used the round plastic black choke adjustment thingy off of the other carb I had.  The spring was different, though.  I'll attach a pic of the one that got cracked (left side) and the one that I had (right side) and used.  If I need to swap springs, let me know. I watched a video on how to set the choke initially on these type chokes.

 

-BEP

 

 

HotAirChoke_GoodAndBad.JPG

Edited by bepnewt (see edit history)

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It really tees me off that after packing so well that it came through with a broken choke housing. If the housing you have is from the other 3665s carb. you have just use it as it is. If you want to clean up the spring it can be removed easily (try not to stretch it out of shape) enough by lifting the spring part out of the plastic notch. OR, you could swap springs. Just make sure you orientate them in the correct facing position. If you are going to use the original hot air set-up you will need to run two 1/4" pipes. One from the choke housing fitting to the top rear of the right exhaust manifold (hot air supply) & one from brass nipple of the top rear of the carb. air horn (fresh air supply) to under the manifold in the bottom middle. You will more than likely have to drill out the broken/rotted pieces from the top rear & bottom middle of the exhaust manifold. I usually do this with a drill bit slightly smaller than 1/4" & the broken/rotted pieces will just come out easily. You shouldn't have to drill more than 1/2" or so. Go too deep & you run the possibility of going through the air tube that goes through the manifold. As a matter of fact after you get the car started & BEFORE drilling see if you can feel/hear any exhaust coming out of the rear of the tube. Very seldom have I encountered a bad tube through the manifold. If you can feel/hear exhaust you will have to purchase a repair kit that clamps around the manifold  For the hot air side (to the rear top of the manifold) I normally use a copper line. You can get the correct heat covering at many of the Corvette suppliers. The choke housing brass nut can be purchased at your local NAPA or other auto parts store & maybe even your local hardware store. Then you will have to flare the end that goes to the choke housing. The fresh air side from the top rear of the carb. air horn you can use a piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing. These pieces will NOT rot/rust. OR, you could go all out & use stainless tubing. The pieces should go into the manifold about 1/2".

Let me know if I can be of any more help. Almost wish I was close enough to help or do it for you.

You will have to ask for pictures from some of the members who may still have the original hot air & fresh air supply tubing still on their cars to get a visual of the orientation of how this tubing is run.

Any members able to help Brian with some pictures????

 

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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