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Brian_Heil last won the day on April 7 2016

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About Brian_Heil

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    18 Miles South of Flint
  1. No that is one of the springs I have, just cleaned up on a wire wheel. I thought of the name of the guy working on making springs, Ray Brown. Not sure if he ever got anywhere with the project.
  2. Also, you should contact Lee Wangerin in Lakewood, CA. He is not on the internet but in the Buick Roster. He has all sorts of parts for 1923's and amazes me with the parts he has or knows of.
  3. Thx for the information Terry. I bought a tube of assembly moly at lunch today. I like how you built a galley. Here are some pix of my felt washers from McMaster Carr. The one on the stem got oiled and it swelled up some so looking like one per stem is all that will fit. I use gear oil with EP in my rocker shaft galleys and will fill the upper spring retainer cups with same to leak down and fill the felt when the engine is warm.
  5. And there is somebody out there selling Stewart Warner tanks but I don't have his name or contact info. Anybody? Maybe Leif will be kind enough to tell us which model tank you need as S/W made many styles.
  6. No rush as I mentioned in my email to you today. Thx!
  7. John, I was going to ask the same thing. Is that felt down between the head and the cage on the lower stem as viewed thru the bird hole? I don't think the felt would last there especially in the exhaust gas stream. Here is what I went with so far: 3/4" O.D. x 1/4" I.D. by 1/4" thick. 955571A550 These are about as big as a life saver and stretch to fit over the stem, I might have room for two, I have not measured my lift yet to see if two will fit. I plan to install them on the stem on the top of the cage were I can get oil to them. I think this is where they should go. I'm open to suggestions if someone has a better idea. I believe the felt washers (to retain oil on the stem) were new for 1923. I have never seen a real set. It will be interesting to see how long these hold up.
  8. Don't have any headlight rims but let me know what I can do to help otherwise.
  9. Greg, Good to hear from you Brother! Ready to jump ship and buy a Buick? I edited my original post with a footnote to see this post since I did the on-line detective work with the box labels Denny gave me with the new valves and the dimensions match up so my error on the BB Chevy and Caterpillar info.. Believe that must have been early guess talking on the BB and Caterpillar from Denny on another project of his. I'm running Cummins and Case Diesel exhausts. They should last. LOL. The intakes are Engine Pro # 01-01847S Cummins Diesel Exhaust The exhaust valves used are SBI #02084 Case Diesel Exhaust Let's chat about the event this Spring at the Gilmore Museum. Maybe drive over together? Got a Pierce that will keep up with a Buick with a fresh valve job?
  10. Heavens to Betsy, someone on eBay lied to me! I agree Terry, these are NORS. Real Buick valves have the trade mark Buick script stamped in the head too and these do not. Note to self, don't mess with Kansas.
  11. As additional information, I got my micrometer out and measured the NOS valve stems and the modern stems. I guess I needed to know just how big did the cages have to get honed to fit the new stems. Interesting the NOS stems measure 0.370 on the exhausts and 0.371 on the intakes. Guessing that Buick used a common reamer to make both cages and ran the exhaust valve/cages a little looser as you should. The valves stems were ground so that diameter could be adjusted easily. The Chevy BB valve stem used for the intake mic's at 0.379 and Mr. Chubby, the Caterpillar is 0.402 Here are some pics as I'm sure there are several folks who have never seen a valve cage. NOS valves are to the left of each of the modern valves. And yes, you have to make certain you line up that 'bird hole' in the cage with the runner cast in the head and make certain it does not rotate as you lock down the jam nut and seal ring.
  12. Also, anyone know of the status of the Valve Spring project that was being worked on? A new set of springs sure would be nice to go with these rebuilt cages.
  13. There were several Tour posts from last year where I had burnt, leaking valves. First time I had the hood up on my '23 on a Tour (knock on wood) in 20 years. Thought I would start a new thread and cover what I did to solve the issue. Thanks to Dandy Dave and Larry Schramm for capturing the 'event' forever on digital camera, and for stopping and helping too. We did get back on the road and my Buick did finish the week. Issue is worn valve cage stem bores allowing the valve to wander around and not seat which leads to leaking which leads to burnt exhaust valves. The intakes stay lubed since they run cooler and were worn but not badly. The exhaust valves were burned to ~0.020 inch gap/burn path/missing head material. 1923 is the last year for the jugged head and the use of caged valves on Buicks. So, what to do? I have a set of NOS Buick valves I bought off eBay years ago for $3/valve. Still have them. Going this way would require having the worn cage bores further oversized and grey cast iron rod pressed in and then drilled, reamed and honed back to stock dia. to accept the NOS valves. The other option is to find 'modern' valves with stem diameters just a tad larger than stock, hone the cage stem bores out to fit and also machine the modern valves to correct length, head dia. and re-grind head, add the keeper slot hole to the end of the valve and grind the cage seats to match. Since going this way, saved the NOS valves for another day and left the cages capable of being sleeved in the future, I went this way. Turns out the larger diameter Buick intake valves are close to (very cheap cost wise) big block Chevy valves and the Chevy valve stem diameters were just a bit larger that we guessed correctly that the worn cages would clean up to fit them nicely and they did, so they were bought, cut and ground to correct length and keeper slot added. The head diameter had to be trimmed down too which caused the head seat surface to be re-ground to a smaller diameter. Note these valves are long enough to lop off the Chevy keeper groove end and still have enough length to put the Buick keeper slot in. Cage stem bores were honed to size and cage seat ground to match the new valve. I think we removed ~0.006 inch of cage stem bore dia. or 0.003 on the stem wall to remove the wear hour glass shape and fit the stock Chevy BB stem diameter with proper clearance. Again, the intakes were not that bad compared to the exhausts. The exhaust cages were really worn, so a 'large' stem diameter, small headed valve with enough length to allow for the keeper slot had to be found. A (not so cheap this time) Caterpillar exhaust valve was found to fit the bill for $20 each and given the same treatment as the intake valves and the cages honed (a bunch) to fit and the cage seat ground to match. Sounds easy since I didn't do any of the work. At this point I need to put a plug in for Denny Newman in Clio, Michigan and his machine shop. Most of Denny's work is on Brass cars and he does it all from paint to line boring an 4 cylinder EMF block to fit half shell bearings that are babbitted to his design which was todays project when I stopped at lunch. A huge Packard block was on its way out after being machined. My valve work was a 'fill-in' job. I almost have enough additional exhaust cages to go the second route with them and have these cages sleeved and use the NOS valves. Mark Shaw has been a big help finding used, rebuild-able cages. Thank you Brother Shaw! Now my issue is painting. Not the Buick, but a dining room, a back hall and a 1/2 bath. If Mamma aint happy, aint n-o-o-o-o-o body happy as the old saying goes. A reassembly project in the garage would not be in my best interest at this time. Edit/correction to the actual valves used, see post below. Thx BTH.
  14. Back in the day, I had a leaking freeze plug on a beater Nova. Could not get to it and did not have the money to fix correctly as a broke college student. Found a freeze plug block heater that bolted in the correct size freeze plug hole. Knocked the freeze plug into the block (could not pull) and bolted in the block heater freeze plug and went years that way until I sold it to the next kid.
  15. I have known and toured with Skip and his family for years. He is as fine a person as he is a mechanic. They don't come any better.