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Brian_Heil last won the day on April 7 2016

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About Brian_Heil

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    18 Miles South of Flint
  1. 1923 Buick Bearing

    I'm not sure I follow your comment. Which bearing is wrong?
  2. 1920 ute

    A popular vehicle used in Australia to bring beer home from the store.

    For those with a newer Buick, there is hope. The muffler on my 1923 6 cylinder was split at the seam and leaking when I bought the car. The muffler needs a specific inlet diameter to fit the cast elbow/hanger and it needs to be offset at the inlet so it will clear the underbody and also offset at the rear to clear the axle strut arm. Turns out a 1960s GM 'grain truck' muffler is a perfect match, inlet diameter and offsets, can diameter, can length. Or at least it matched what I had that fit and was shot. When I showed it to the muffler shop guy, he gave a number right off the top of his head and darn if it wasn't a perfect match. Here's a pick from Waldron's catalog that is the same. I think I paid less than $20 20 years ago form the local muffler shop.
  4. New Old Tires?

    So, summarizing, the new (16th week of 2016) tire arrived just before the 4th of July weekend and we were headed out on our 1500 mile BCA National + After Tour + Vacation tour on the 5th so I did not want to mount the new tire and then find out I pinched the tube or had the flap out of place on my tour, so I left the 'new' 5 year old tire on and did the tour since I had shaken it down with several long rides. I shared all this with Coker that my return tire was going to come back with +2000 miles on it and they were fine with that. Fast forward through a very successful tour and home and tire swap and (free shipping label) shipped the 5 year old 2000 mile tire back last week. It then took calls to get 'them' to remember all this and credit my credit card since they made me pay up front for the 16th week of 2016 tire. Just got the credit refund confirmation. Getting pretty good at changing tires. Glad I got to do it in the garage at home and not in the middle of Wisconsin on the side of the road.
  5. Hemmings Motor Oil

    Indeed, oil is a very complex issue. BobistheOilGuy is the best site to search and review these topics in my opinion. (I just wanted to get people looking and thinking about oil in general and a widely advertised oil as well.) Relative to ZDDP levels and other questions. I have found the name brand oil suppliers to be very helpful in providing what their content is when you call their technical support lines. i.e., where are your levels, so I know what to add to get to the ZDDP level I desire?. Also, API ratings are very tough. If an oil meets SN and they state it, and has the API Starburst, it has met a multitude of tests and requirements. I have roller lifters in my 1923 Buick, as do many of you, so I do not have the flat tappet/cam lobe contact stress issue related to ZDDP levels. But I also own two small block Chevy vehicles with high lift cams, heavy springs, solid lifters etc. For now, I use 20w50 SN in all three and supplement the more modern two with additional ZDDP. I'm certain today's SN is multitudes better than the oil sold in the 1920's (and the 1960s too) and I have a high strength magnets in the pans of all 3 and change the oil long before 1000 miles (and have had to add oil several times during that 1000 miles on the 1923). My other thought on oil is the GM 3.0L/3300/3800/3800SC/GNX Turbo engine families which I had a great deal to do with. These engines were validated multiple times at 1200 hours at full load dyno testing on run-of-the-mill 10w30 Mobil (not Mobil 1) with an API rating of what was in place in the mid to late 1980s. GM bought it by the rail tanker full as 'factory fill' and we validated with factory fill. Why Mobil? They gave GM the best price for the current API rating in effect. I always think of how hard that oil worked in those engines with the manifolds and half the head glowing red and how I don't drive anywhere near that hard.
  6. Hemmings Motor Oil

    I see your point. They could not certify because the oil is not SN because the Zink is too high to meet SN. That would be the best case you could hope for. But if that's the case, why not state it as such? An API level of certification comes after passing a number of very specific and difficult tests that are costly to run and certify to. Why not take a current oil that meets SN API Certification and then add Zink/ZDDP to some level above the SN concentration and state just that 'this is SN certified oil with the following modified total Zinc content of XXX' and sell it? They don't do that. After all, that is what many of us are doing by adding ZDDP 'concentrate' to our current SN certified oil. Or buying 'diesel' SN oil with higher ZDDP. The Zink 'poisons' catalytic converters, so state this oil is for use in vehicles not so equipped. This is what they do on 'diesel' oils with higher Zink. Not meeting any API rating is of concern to me. You can purchase non detergent oil that meets something like SA or SB still, so as long as you state the rating and meet it, you can sell it. That's sort of the point of the API system. Here's an interesting link on API ratings and timeframes. 9 bucks a quart, I need more info than they provided and I told my buddy the same.
  7. Hemmings Motor Oil

    Cheaper ways to get ZDDP than $9/Qt and to a name brand and API rated oil you select.
  8. Hemmings Motor Oil A car buddy asked me for an opinion on this oil so I did some investigation. Did not see the API 'startburst' in the adds so I called Hemmings. Got referred to Champions Brands, the manufacturer. I will not state an opinion, just the facts as I have them (we shall see if this passes the Mr. Earl posting protocol). This oil is $9/quart. It does not have an API rating. The API rating/testing was not sought by the manufacturer, Champions Brands, per my discussion with them by phone.
  9. Favorite Pictures of My Pre War Buick

    I really like this one from this year's PWD After Tour last week. Downtown Baraboo, Wisconsin lunch stop. My 1923 Model 45, Rob Swearinger's 1924 Model 45 and Larry Di Barry's 1937.
  10. 1925 Buick coupe

    Welcome Jim! Join the BCA if you have not done so already. Also, use the search feature on this Forum. Lots of issues have been discussed in detail that will help you.
  11. learning about my 1917 D45

    My car came with an aftermarket spot light but it had no guts. The previous owner liked the non working spot since it had a wide angle mirror mounted on the back of it (and I do too). I found a 6V GE sealed beam lantern bulb used widely in the 50s and 60s and still available. Mounted it within the housing (it fit perfect) and behind the lens and it has worked great and bright as heck. I wired it to the pull switch that turns on the front courtesy light. Seeing the courtesy light on reminds me I have left the spot light on. If you blow up the third pick you can see the sealed beam within the spot housing.
  12. 1923 Buick Bearing

    1923 uses same. See pics of my old one. Quick search says they are now ~$100 online. George is a nice guy. Interested in his price. It was triple when I asked compared to Detroit Ball Bearing counter price years ago. Do your homework is all I'm saying.
  13. 1923 Buick Bearing

    Terry, Do you have the number? It was something like a 4 inch (100mm) dia x 2 inch (50mm) wide. I just looked up a 4211 (which is a 4x2 double row) and they are ~$75 online. I paid ~$50 20 years ago. I still have the old bearing in the new (20 year old) box in my stash of Buick parts. Let me get the correct number tonight and look it up. And my new ones came with side shields that help keep debris out and grease in.
  14. 1923 Buick Bearing

    Terry, You paid way more than me. Sorry.