PFindlay

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About PFindlay

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  1. I have three of these 36 x 4 tires. They are Universal brand, probably 40 years old at least. Some sidewall cracking and poor tread, but they'd be ok for a display car or to get your project rolling while you wait for new tires. Two of them were on my 1911 Cadillac until just recently. $50 USD each plus shipping from Canada.
  2. Here's a curiosity ... if you look at the closeup of the 1911 Cadillac, you can see that the carb mixture dial has been pulled way out from the dash, with a bracket mounting it to the steering column. It should be sitting almost flush to the dash. This appears to be a period modification. That dial is quite hard to reach when you're driving, so someone came up with an improvement. Peter
  3. PFindlay

    Radiator Dog Bones

    I have one that may be what you're after. It measures about 2.150 inside the threads and is 16 tpi. see pictures. Peter
  4. PFindlay

    1913 Buick Prices

    I spoke to the owner of this 1914 McLaughlin last night. It is still available and seems like a fair price, in Canadian dollars. https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1914-McLaughlin-Touring-Car_27816256 Peter
  5. PFindlay

    Twenties touring ID?

    Boy, the American shown above certainly checks off some of the boxes. Here they are side by side: Similarities: running board swoops up roof bow has a Y in it doors and door handles frame showing above running board short, vertical hood louvers design of rear spring showing at rear of car Differences: headlights and cowl lights wheels (disks may have been an option) American fenders appear to have more rounded edges Could this be it?
  6. PFindlay

    Twenties touring ID?

    Thanks to each of you for the suggestions, but I don't think we've got it yet. If you look at the left edge of the picture you can see the spring setup and it's different from the Lexington. Also, the rear doors in the picture appear to come straight down in front of the fender, making for a rectangular rear door,;no cutout for the fender curve. The Marmon running board sweeps up at the rear as well as the front. The hood louvers are unique in that they are quite short, and low on the hood. Any other suggestions would be welcomed. Peter
  7. PFindlay

    Twenties touring ID?

    Can anyone ID this car for me?
  8. PFindlay

    6 volt LED bulbs

    Thanks Matt, that's exactly what I was looking for. Peter
  9. PFindlay

    6 volt LED bulbs

    Does anyone have any experience using 6 volt LED bulbs in their vintage cars with 6 volt systems? I see a company in England has them and it seems like it might be a good idea. The company is http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/ Peter
  10. The touring on the right, with its top neatly folded away, is a 13 or 14 Cadillac.
  11. The car in the lower right of the first picture is a 1911 Cadillac with aftermarket front doors added. Peter
  12. PFindlay

    Vancover Island to east of Toronto

    Just to clarify - are you looking for someone with an enclosed trailer to bring your T home, or for someone to bring your T and its trailer home? When would you want it done? Peter
  13. PFindlay

    Mystery touring circa 1910.

    11 Cadillac?
  14. Maybe I was a little vague because I couldn't quite remember what I did. So I opened up my spare tank and here's my explanation. I'm no expert on these tanks, so someone out there can correct me, but I haven't had any more fuel problems since I discovered and fixed this problem. First, the problem ... take a look at the picture here and the red arrows I've added. On the left shows the float in the down position. The needle valve on the right falls down at this point. On the right the float is in the up position. Notice that the needle valve is not all the way up. On both my tanks I found that this needle gets "hung up" and doesn't close properly. I can feel it by giving it a little push to see if it's stuck, then frees. (This occurs mostly when the unit is in it's normal, vertical position. Not laying down as in the picture.) So, my solution was to take a thin piece of wire and make a wrap around the needle where the blue arrow is pointing. This gives the needle a little more push when the float rises and it pops up as it should, past the point where it gets hung up. ... For me, at least. I suggest you see if this needle valve is hanging up instead of closing when the float comes up. If it's moving freely, then ignore all of this.
  15. If it will only run when you manually fill the vacuum tank, then it sounds like your problem is there. Perhaps vacuum related, but maybe not. I was having fuel problems on my 27 Auburn (Stewart-Warner vacuum tank). It seemed like it was running out of gas. When I filled the vacuum tank it would fire up and burn off that much gas before stalling again. Eventually, I discovered that the needle valve (or maybe the arm it rides on) had worn in such a way that the valve could get hung up and not operate properly. If I had known this was the problem, I probably could have given the tank a good tap and it would have settled itself in, for awhile. I ended up making up a small spacer that I inserted so that the needle valve sat up a little higher. This changed the angles involved slightly so that the needle doesn't get hung up anymore. I haven't had any further problems. I have a spare vacuum tank and never had any luck switching tanks. Turns out the spare was worn pretty much the same way. My advice would be to check the needle valve int he tank to make sure that it operates smoothly and completely. Peter