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About critterpainter

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  1. The redneck in me would coast it down a hill and pop the clutch. Even if the valves are tight, or the timing is a bit off the beast should try to run enough to help identify the problem. In spite of the shops diagnosis, I am betting on mal-adjusted valves. In your first post you stated that it had hydraulic lifters. You probably adjusted the valves with some collapsed lifters (a Buick habit) that are now starting to pump up, causing the valves to become tight. LOOSEN the valves, an engine with loose valves will start easier than one with tight valves.
  2. The stainless hubcaps are reproduction. Original hubcaps (as you have found out) are chromed steel wrapped over a steel base. One of the styles of the reproductions was a stainless steel skin wrapped over a steel shell, very similar to original, but with a stainless skin. This style is currently not in production and the suppler is out of stock.
  3. I believe the interior rear window trim was a fabric covered piece of caning. Obviously most of these have rotted away decades ago.
  4. There may be an issue with the timing marks. IF the flywheel has EVER been removed for resurfacing during a clutch repair, it may have been installed wrong. Yes it can happen! Check the flywheel by pulling the plug on #1 cyl and turn the engine over slowly til #1 piston it at TDC with both valves closed. Do the timing marks show on the flywheel? If not then you may have to re-mark the flywheel to match the correct engine timing. I believe engines with hyd lifters were only used on DynaFlow cars, but I am not sure. Someone MAY have been playing with the crankshaft and flywheel.
  5. If it sounds like fuel pump, it just might be the fuel pump. If the carb bowl is full then the fuel pump is not working and you could be hearing the pull rods clicking.
  6. When sliding transmission back, a tapered flat washer may fall out. It sits between the front of the trans and the sleeve that the throw-out bearing assembly slides on. Bill
  7. SR-389 is the part I was referring to. It just sits in the bell housing and is held in place by the transmission. Its known to fall out and roll across the floor when the tranny comes out.
  8. The key to the "quickie" repair is to remove the outer torque ball retainer and look at the cork seal. If it is dried our and split, then the technique I mentioned above will work. Perhaps not kosher, but a lot less labor.
  9. If your car is a true 1947 with a 3 speed manual tranny, the leak at the back of the transmission is an easy fix. That year torque ball used a cork seal that was tapered. Bobs Automobilia has a repair kit that includes a neoprene tapered seal. You can either follow the instructions in the shop manual, or if you want to do it the quick and dirty way then: 1. remove the 6 bolts holding the torque ball retainer to the torque ball. 2. slide retainer back and remove the broken-shot tapered seal. 3. Cut the new seal and put it around the driveshaft in front of the retainer and make sure the bevel is faced forward. 4. Super glue the seal back together, stick it in the outer retainer and put it back together. Don't breathe a word to anyone as to how you fixed the leak.
  10. I missed mentioning the "toggle spring and the toggle lever" on the outside of the transmission case. It helps hold the transmission in gear. Don is right about the input bearing causing a problem. There is a tapered bellview washer that fits in front of the input bearing. It can fall out easily during disassembly without being noticed. Bill
  11. Are the shift linkage bushing in place and in good shape? This is the most common problem with poor shifting issues. Also on the last two Buicks I worked on, the shift mast was binding before it would travel its full distance. A little lube near the hand shift lever fixed that issue. One thing I check is to make sure that 3rd gear has full engagement. I shift the car fully into third using the shift lever, then I go under the car and disconnect the actuating rod from the lever on the side of the transmission and make sure that the lever on the side of the transmission will NOT move any further into the third position. If it moves more, then the adjustment is wrong. Adjusting is easy and good bushings are a must!
  12. You could have a bad flex hose over by the starter that has cracked. If it has dried up and cracked the fuel pump will only suck air, not fuel.
  13. I am going off my feeble memory here, but I think 37 is the last year of the flat-top piston. Changing to the later domed piston such as Egge supplies should wake the engine up. There was one year that the head may have had an interference problem, but my memory fails. The cure (if the pistons hit) was to install a newer head. The Guru's on this forum would know the details but I believe it is just a piston swap. The domed pistons are cheaper than the flat top pistons from Egge for some reason. Bill
  14. I believe that that is about the last of the low compression engines before the new piston was introduced. In 37 the compression ratio was 5.75 B 1938 the compression ratio was 6.35 to 1. I believe the change was due to piston design. If you are running factory 1937 pistons, then replace the pistons and you should pick up more horsepower. Las Vegas Dave Without the overdrive engaged, he is running the the stock gearing. Thats the advantage of an overdrive.
  15. 0 ohms at empty and 30 at full