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About critterpainter

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  1. If it sounds like fuel pump, it just might be the fuel pump. If the carb bowl is full then the fuel pump is not working and you could be hearing the pull rods clicking.
  2. When sliding transmission back, a tapered flat washer may fall out. It sits between the front of the trans and the sleeve that the throw-out bearing assembly slides on. Bill
  3. SR-389 is the part I was referring to. It just sits in the bell housing and is held in place by the transmission. Its known to fall out and roll across the floor when the tranny comes out.
  4. The key to the "quickie" repair is to remove the outer torque ball retainer and look at the cork seal. If it is dried our and split, then the technique I mentioned above will work. Perhaps not kosher, but a lot less labor.
  5. If your car is a true 1947 with a 3 speed manual tranny, the leak at the back of the transmission is an easy fix. That year torque ball used a cork seal that was tapered. Bobs Automobilia has a repair kit that includes a neoprene tapered seal. You can either follow the instructions in the shop manual, or if you want to do it the quick and dirty way then: 1. remove the 6 bolts holding the torque ball retainer to the torque ball. 2. slide retainer back and remove the broken-shot tapered seal. 3. Cut the new seal and put it around the driveshaft in front of the retainer and make sure the bevel is faced forward. 4. Super glue the seal back together, stick it in the outer retainer and put it back together. Don't breathe a word to anyone as to how you fixed the leak.
  6. I missed mentioning the "toggle spring and the toggle lever" on the outside of the transmission case. It helps hold the transmission in gear. Don is right about the input bearing causing a problem. There is a tapered bellview washer that fits in front of the input bearing. It can fall out easily during disassembly without being noticed. Bill
  7. Are the shift linkage bushing in place and in good shape? This is the most common problem with poor shifting issues. Also on the last two Buicks I worked on, the shift mast was binding before it would travel its full distance. A little lube near the hand shift lever fixed that issue. One thing I check is to make sure that 3rd gear has full engagement. I shift the car fully into third using the shift lever, then I go under the car and disconnect the actuating rod from the lever on the side of the transmission and make sure that the lever on the side of the transmission will NOT move any further into the third position. If it moves more, then the adjustment is wrong. Adjusting is easy and good bushings are a must!
  8. You could have a bad flex hose over by the starter that has cracked. If it has dried up and cracked the fuel pump will only suck air, not fuel.
  9. I am going off my feeble memory here, but I think 37 is the last year of the flat-top piston. Changing to the later domed piston such as Egge supplies should wake the engine up. There was one year that the head may have had an interference problem, but my memory fails. The cure (if the pistons hit) was to install a newer head. The Guru's on this forum would know the details but I believe it is just a piston swap. The domed pistons are cheaper than the flat top pistons from Egge for some reason. Bill
  10. I believe that that is about the last of the low compression engines before the new piston was introduced. In 37 the compression ratio was 5.75 B 1938 the compression ratio was 6.35 to 1. I believe the change was due to piston design. If you are running factory 1937 pistons, then replace the pistons and you should pick up more horsepower. Las Vegas Dave Without the overdrive engaged, he is running the the stock gearing. Thats the advantage of an overdrive.
  11. 0 ohms at empty and 30 at full
  12. MIght be a 1936 tank. Some of those had the fuel pickup at the bottom.
  13. Check out Caswell Plating. I have used their sealer and so far I like.
  14. Find a company that tents houses to treat for termites and see if you can park the car in the garage of a house being treated if they think their chemical will do the job.
  15. IIRC when hunting a differential or an axle for a Buick, not only is the fact that the car a Standard important, but the body style also is needed to get the correct axle. There were at least 2 different axle types used in the mid 20's Buicks