70sWagoneers

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About 70sWagoneers

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  1. What type of paint? 1937 Buick special

    I just got off the phone with TCP Global and their paint guys said that acrylic lacquer doesnt blend with nitrocellulose lacquer. Is the original 1937 paint nitrocellulose??
  2. I have a survivor 1937 Buick Special. It is all original and well "patina'd". The color is Chancellor Blue. Im pretty green when it comes to painting. I would like to "blend" in some spots that are a bit rusty like on the cowling under the hood and in the fenderwells. I know the color will not match but it doesnt matter. I just want a correct color paint that is compatible with the original paint. Ive found many color chips on the internet but no mention of type of paint. What type paint would Buick use in 1937? Is it nitrocellulose lacquer or enamel? If it is nitro, the only place i see so far to get it is Hibernia Restoration. Any other sources? Thanks James C
  3. Clutch fingers hitting friction plate springs

    Thanks jenz. I will set my clutch pedal up per the manual's instruction and then raise the clutch fingers until I get about 0.1" air gap between fingers and throwout bearing. I am also getting a lot of oil on the flywheel and am worried it will contaminate my clutch. I am not sure where it is coming from. I sealed the rear main bearing pretty well I thought, but there is also a pretty steep hill that I back down to my parking spot so perhaps oil is just coming right out the rear main bearing! Seems there is oil coming from everywhere! Very frustrating. Oh well Thanks James C
  4. So Ive rebuilt and re-installed the engine into my 1937 Buick Special 248ci. It runs! But when the clutch throwout bearing pushes the clutch finger levers in they hit the friction plate springs. So just for now I have the clutch pedal adjusted just enough to disengage the clutch without pushing the levers into the springs. I remember the peculiar sound it makes from before I rebuilt the engine so it had the same problem then. So when I rebuilt the clutch I readjusted all the fingers until they were even, but I didn't know what height they were supposed to be set at. I measured off the top of the pressure plate, bringing the two low ones up and the high one down till they were even. But now I see that they all should have been brought up too! Does anyone have any idea what the distance from the top of the pressure plate to the fingers should be?? The only reference I could find was to a "special tool", but I couldn't find that. So now Ill have to adjust the fingers up while installed in the car. I guess the best I can do is to turn the locking nuts on the fingers equal amounts of turns and hope all is even. And as a second concern, does anyone know if there is a washer or shim under the ball stud that the throwout fork pivots on? I didn't take enough pictures of when I dissassembled so I just put one thick washer under the ball stud. Thanks James C.
  5. I see a couple of dual point Dyna on ebay too. I just wonder if they are worth the hassle or not. Thanks, everyone. James C
  6. Thanks everyone. How does the Delco replacement part work? Are the plastic pieces mounted to the dist housing or the breaker plate? If they mount to plate, it doesn't seem like it would rotate very smoothly against the pits in the ball bearing groove. But it has to be better than the ball bearings. Is there any drawback to the Dyna-Flytes with dual points? Thanks James C
  7. 1937 248ci Intake Man. Gland Rings

    Thanks everyone. I made a jig and ground them down in the Bridgeport at work. I took about .060" off. James C
  8. Ive got a 1937 Buick Special with 248ci engine. Im working on the distributor and it seems the distributor plate assembly will not rotate smoothly on its ball bearings. It will move but it seems to go from indentation to indentation. Not a smooth movement at all. The ball bearings themselves don't have any gross irregularities. The distributor plate, in the three pockets where the ball bearings sit, have some wear, but it is fairly smooth. The groove in the distributor housing that the ball bearings ride definitely have large "indentations" where the whole thing gets stuck in one place. The indentation is so large I have to ask whether it is actually supposed to be there? Then my other question is what options do I have on fixing this. I have seen reference to the Dyna-Flyte breaker plates, but that doesn't seem to fix the wear in the housing (which I may be totally mistaken about). It looks like the Dyna-Flyte does away with the three ball bearings and rides on its own bearing system. Is that correct? I have also seen the Calibromatic or Spark-o-liner which seems to install a liner into the ball bearing groove. Does that work? And one last question, do these kits come with new ball bearings? and/or where do I ket new ball bearings? Thanks James C.
  9. Sooo..... I machined a good bit of material off my intake and exhaust manifolds since they were quite pitted and leaking. But, I didn't realize till now that the gland rings may need to be machined down too!! I'm not sure how much material came off the manifolds since it was just down on a belt sander till it was all flush. It could easily have been .050" or more. The ring is about .375" deep. the shoulders in the block and manifold add up to about .290". I also have fiber gaskets that came with my Egge gasket set. It is about .100". That leaves me with about .015" of gasket squish till the ring contact. So what kind of clearance do the gland rings need from block to manifold? Thanks James C.
  10. I work in a professional shop, it takes forever
  11. pre-war Delco-Remy Distributor mystery port

    Thanks. I wasn't going to take it apart any further to find out!!
  12. Ive got a Delco Remy distributor off a 1937 Buick Special 248ci. Ive stripped and painted the housing. During the process of purging all the old grease I took out this cap screw (background of picture #1). But I didn't realize there was a spring and possibly something else in the hole! It is the "possibly something else" that concerns me. I just went about pushing and digging all the grease out and luckily found the spring after I pushed it out. From other forums, I think this is the "pipe plug" for the oil reservoir along the distributor shaft (picture #2). In picture #2 it looks like there is just one thing behind the plug, but I cannot tell what it is. Just a spring?? But then that brings me to the question, "What does the spring do?". I would think the spring would be holding a check ball or valve. Did I loose a ball?? Let me know what yall think. Thanks, James C Pic #1 Pic #2
  13. Gasket between block and bellhousing? 1937 Special

    Thanks.
  14. 1937 Buick Special 40 248c.i. Is there a gasket between the block and bellhousing? Or metal to metal? Thanks James C.
  15. Paint under spark plug cover? 1937 Special

    Thanks guys. I think my engine had a few replacement pieces; the spark plug cover, rocker cover, and water pump were all painted a non-matching shade of green which wasn't sticking well to a black under coat. The block was the correct original color. The head Im not sure about.