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About 70sWagoneers

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  1. My favorite electric car = Detroit Electric Speedster Looks like its an underslung chassis too!
  2. Shoot, it even looks good without the running boards!
  3. I just went thru this same scenario. Took it all apart and then rebuilt the Lovejoys myself. I must have tried to install everything 5 times but just couldn't get the upper pivot pin in there. Finally I figured out the correct sequence and lined everything up with the help of a ratchet strap and bar clamps! Upon installation, he top of the knuckle and the pin should be spaced evenly between the shock arm. Caster can be tuned later. I bought seals, but I was at suck wit's end that I was relieved just to get it back together! James C.
  4. Did you have a crank seal in the timing cover? I don't remember seeing one when I took my motor apart and I'm wondering if it would be worth the hassle to retrofit an oil seal into the timing cover.
  5. Great work!
  6. Hah, I'm still unsure
  7. Those are great source pictures, Grandpa. But my eyes can't tell what is what. The first picture almost look like both manifolds have a paint sheen to them. But the second picture I can tell they each have different color/sheen. So, did they mask off the exhaust manifold before they painted the engine color?? Or did they paint the exhaust manifold too and all that paint burns off? I definitely see that most intake manifolds that I can look up on the internet have some remnant of green paint but all exhaust manifolds are usually well burnt up. It just seems like an odd masking task to do. But, I wasn't there so let me know! I'm still leaning toward individually painting the manifold their separate colors before bolting them together. And then I'll machine the mounting face. Anybody got any tips on mounting this homely manifold on a Bridgeport?? Thanks James C.
  8. I'm gearing up to refinish my intake/exhaust manifolds and was unsure of what colors were correct. I was going to paint the intake engine color (green) and the exhaust log will stay bare cast iron color. Does this sound right? The old paint is a mix-match of color. Thanks James C.
  9. I just moved from Athens a couple of years ago. I lived in Winterville. I wonder if I ever saw you at the Varsity cruise-in?
  10. Thanks everyone. The last post is very helpful. So, I've put new Viton sponge seals (hand-cut) in, welded the arms back on and applied paint. Since I filled with jack oil last night... no leaks!
  11. Yes. I just finished restoring a 1917/1935 Detroit Electric. It had a 1917 drivetrain; wheels and frame, and a 1935 body. The motor (1917) says "Anderson Electric Car Co." The body (1935) says "Detroit Electric Car Co.". So it is one of the last cars built before A. Dunk bought the company in 1936 which would have said "Detroit Electric Mfg. Co."
  12. Yes, all new cloth-covered wiring was used. I cleaned and rebuild all the connectors and electrical apparatus. Good thing it was relatively simple. No circuitboards!
  13. I'm in Mooresville, NC..... Race City, USA. If I can tomorrow, I'll call locateballbearings.com. Thanks James C.
  14. I went to the local bearing "distributor" and of course the dont have any seals, nor does the local industrial supply. I guess at this point Im just not sure who to ask. But Ive got the 1/4" viton sponge on the way, but if there is something better (for a decent price) or if I shouldn't use this, I'd like to know. Thanks James C
  15. Alright, so I tried a more direct route to the seals! So I welded together a puller with some pipe and a bolt that I tack weld to the dust cap to pull it off. Works great! Didn't have to remove the shaft or the piston caps. Tho now I have to weld fill some holes in the dust caps and refinish them (maybe zinc plate?). I also need to find some gasket material; 1/4" thick. The cheapest thing Ive found is sponge Viton on ebay. Anyone think this may be too soft? Otherwise all I can find is 1'x3'x1/4" cork rubber material at about $60 which I aint gonna do!