• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

38 Excellent

About m-mman

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 03/11/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Hacienda Heights California USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Hchris - I think the short 'filling time' is related to the fact that the tank(s) are full to start with and all the system has to do is refill what was used in the last few moments. If you pull the lid off of a (downdraft) carb, that has a mechanical pump, while the engine is running, you will see that the floats do not drop to empty before they admit additional fuel. They only have to drop 1/16" (?) and fuel runs in under pump pressure. Unlike with a toilet tank, the carb floats don't drop completely & refill, rather they 'vibrate' to keep the fuel level appropriate. The same thing seems to be happening in the vacuum tank. fuel runs into the carb by gravity (so it is always full) and all the tank needs to do is keep adding another 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel into the reserve (pre carb) tank. I was surprised that it was only drawing 5" of vacuum to refill. (As describe above by Pfitz I guess that is enough?) I previously measured 15" at the manifold. Cadillac uses a piston style vacuum pump (powered by the cam) and there is a check valve in the vacuum lines to ensure that there is always a vacuum at the tank. When running, the vacuum at the line that supplies the tank is a bouncing 10"-12". (the bouncing I believe is the effect of the accessory pump) This did not drop below 10" as I reved up the engine as you would expect to see when the gauge is attached directly to the manifold. I can easily see the advantages to having the additional vacuum pump such that your new Cadillac doesn't stall going up a long hill. It is a luxury car after all. πŸ˜‰
  2. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Hurray it seems to be functioning! Tim you were correct the old lid was deteriorating where the fuel line screws in . When attached the tension from the line pulled out the nut and broke the casting. 😞 I almost called you but remembered that based on sound advice I picked up two parts tanks at the Bakersfield Model T swap meet a few months ago. I didn't figure I would ever use them but I would dismantle them to better understand the operation. Turns out one had the exact style of top my original tank had. So, remove it clean it, clean up the needle valves with tooth paste and begin sucking and blowing on the ports to verify their function. Reassemble the tank and the new lid, attach it to my 15" vacuum source and With the fuel intake plugged the tank easily drew down to 15" and held it until I inverted it and the float shifted the valves and it dumped its vacuum. Set it upright again and it began immediately pulling 15" of vacuum. Install it on the car. Use the electric pump to get fuel to the carb so that it will run. Start the car. I plumbed a vacuum gauge into the priming hole that was in this lid. (not all lids have this port) This allowed me to sample the presence of vacuum in the center tank. Initially there was no vacuum <yikes> But I discovered that was because the tank was full and it was not calling for fuel. Rev up the engine to empty the float bowl in the carb and sure enough the float in the tank drops,allows vacuum into the tank - about 5" of vacuum - (it aint much, but it means that it is sucking fuel) Then when the tank is full it shuts off the vacuum. Thus allowing atmospheric pressure into the tank and this allows fuel to flow by gravity into the carb. πŸ™‚ I made a couple of short videos of this happening. I think this is the definitive way to watch a vacuum tank function. I have now driven the car around a bit, both on the flat and a hill climb and the vacuum gauge tells me that it is functioning normally sucking in fuel and shutting itself off. It did not stall going up 3-5 minutes of hill climb so it looks like it might be reliable. Now onto fixing other stuff to make it ready for some touring. Does anybody know the cruising (top?) speed I can expect from a 29 Cad? πŸ€” Thank you everyone for your help. Jim
  3. m-mman

    1963 Chrysler power brake photo?

    That looks like a heavy ceramic resistor. Generally there are only two like that that are used on a car. One for the ignition/coil (which is already in place next to the booster) and the heater/A-C blower. It should not need a ground, it only slows the blower when the switch is on low speed, and mounding it near the booster in the location suggested above would expose it to the cooling air that it should have when it is operated. (commonly these are mounted inside the heater/A-C box to be cooled)
  4. m-mman

    1931 Nash 890 Ambassador Club Sedan *SOLD*

    Beautiful. Does anybody recognize those hinge pin mirrors? I am looking for a set of 'touring' mirrors for my 29 Cadillac Town Sedan, and these look both practical and stylish. And yeah, I am well over this in just the purchase and mechanical repairs to the Cad. And I still aint done. 😯 Independents have always offered excellent value.
  5. m-mman

    Wiring Question

    As I see it the fuel gauge is the only key switched accessory. The ammeter is always on and the lights have their own switches.... Perhaps because of the design of the integral switch/coil, Dodge felt it was better to provide a separate switched terminal (which had to be located on the coil since the switch contacts are inaccessible) because if the fuel gauge drew power from the coil (rather than straight from the key) they thought it might reduce current to the coil thereby reducing the spark(?) I don't think a fuel gauge is going to draw enough current to upset the coil but if you do put your coil on one terminal of the replacement switch and the gauge on the other it will be just as Dodge did it.
  6. m-mman

    72 LeSabre coolant tank

    Get yourself a shop manual. There is no substitute for the wealth of information inside it. All the vacuum diagrams and troubleshooting diagrams are in there. There are plenty of old car vendors but I have found that if you check eBay you can probably get one for $20- $40
  7. m-mman

    Latch for ???

    I have looked at the picture dozens of times. I know that part! But darn if I can place it. Arrrrrggggg . . . I have touched that little bar that acts like a lock. . . . It cut my finger or broke my nail. . . . I remember thinking that I thought it was a bad design. . . . The 4 countersunk holes that receive Phillips head screws imply that it is from the mid to late 60s . . . . The small notches in sides of the flip open top are interesting It's just is not coming to me. . . . darn!
  8. m-mman

    seat replace in 28 D. B.

    Since no one has answered, I will make a comment. I have a 29 Cad and a 26 Lincoln. WHAT WERE THEY THINKING??? Yeah, the distance between the door and the bottom of the seat is ridiculous(!) I have size 12 shoes and yes, I also have to turn my foot sideways and stick it in straight. I have had to teach myself to twist and contort just to get in. (especially without damaging anything) I cannot just 'jump in and go'. Although I have gotten quicker with practice. Once inside, then there is enough room to be (reasonably) comfortable, but getting in and out is not at all like with my 1966 Mercury Parklane. Adjustable seats seems to be a late idea. They are fixed in the Lincoln. Cad introduced an adjustable seat as a new feature for 1929 but it aint much. Modifications? I will let the experts make a conclusive statement, but in the Lincoln (others?) the seat back seems to be a structural member of the body construction and any changes would not happen without a big investment in time and money.
  9. m-mman

    1953 Ford Victoria

    Neatest thing actually. All the style of a continental kit but without the additional weight and hassle. The rarest part of a completely installed option is the flat stainless 'pan' that fits behind the license plate, completely covering the opening over the fuel filler. Commonly lost when the plates are changed over the years. It is missing from the second blue car. As an FYI Ford literature listed them for 1955 cars also (they do fit) but I have never seen one on a 55.
  10. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Update on my work repairing a vacuum tank Thank you to Tim Long for talking to me on the phone and helping me understand testing and resolve my issues. The following is what I have learned and might assist others. Vacuum tank – It must have good vacuum source. Is the engine a good source (timing? Carburetor? Vacuum line to the tank?) My 1929 Cadillac engine was drawing 15”. However, for testing you need a consistent source and the 29 wont run without fuel, so I attached a long rubber line to my 1971 Cad and used the 15” of consistent vacuum from that car. Some tanks have a spare hole in the top. I guess it is for filing/priming the tank. It can also have a nipple screwed into it to connect to a vacuum gauge and measure the vacuum in the tank. I did so and with all the ports plugged, the best I could draw in the tank was 10”. (obviously leaking somewhere) I found cracks in the pot metal near the fuel inlet in the lid. I covered them up with a coating of JB weld and was then able to draw 15” into the tank with all ports sealed. <hurray> Now on to testing the valves. Without getting into how a vacuum tank works just know that there are three functional ports on the top. 1. Fuel in from the tank 2. Vacuum from the engine 3. Vent of vacuum to the outside. There is also a flapper valve in the bottom of the inner tank. Remove lid and inner tank. Examine flapper valve. Of the many that I have examined (just 3) the little flap always looks fine, so you need to test it. It opens to allow fuel out to the carb (never a problem) but it needs to seal (vacuum tight) to draw fuel in from the gas tank. To test - Hold inner tank against your face and suck(!) The flapper valve should close and seal. Blow and it should open easily. I also tested it by quickly dipping the inner tank into a bucket of water to see if it would seal against a liquid. On two of the 3 tanks I have, about ΒΌ to Β½ inch of water leaked in and it then sealed. I suspect that it took that long for the water pressure to build up against the outside of the flapper. On one inner tank the water continued to flow in until the tank was filled even with depth of the bucket. The flapper is bakelite It seals a brass surface ring that is embedded in it against the brass fitting. Tim suggested using fine (320) sandpaper to clean up the surfaces, which I did but after sanding I also saw no change in the sealing capabilities of the two good inner tanks. (either sucking or dipping into water) I then pronounced them working. There are two needle valves operated by a float mechanism. There are levers, pivots and springs. They do not seem to be disassembable. They are riveted together. If you have one that is bent or broken it seems that the only solution is replacement. Tim can supply new springs, and maybe he can fix the levers and arms, but you certainly will not be able to. But all this float and linkage stuff does is open and close two needle valves. One to turn on and off the vacuum from the engine and the other to vent the vacuum in and out of the inner tank. Again they are tested with your mouth. Screw in a hose barb or nipple and then attempt to move air in the proper direction and at the correct position of the float. With the float dropped down you should be able to suck through the engine vacuum port and NOT be able to blow air through the vent port. With the float up you should NOT be able to suck air through the engine vacuum port (engine vacuum shut off) and you should be able to blow air into the vent port. My two needle valves passed air in both directions with the float in both directions. How to fix it? Tim gave me the secret – polish the seats with toothpaste. Put a dab on the needles and seats and spin the shaft of the needle with your finger. It is NOT EASY to get your fingers between the levers and linkages but it can be done. However it also seems that you don’t have to spin them fast or long (I worked me for 5-10 minutes each) I stopped a couple of times and ran water through the holes/valves and blew some compressed air through them to help displace the crud that might have been removed through this lapping process. I was shocked(!) both valves began to seal and vent with the proper direction of the float. <hurray> I cut a new top gasket from cork (composition actually) Tim says he can supply a new one if you need it. Tim says that no additional sealer or chemicals are necessary. Assembly is tricky, getting the long pin at the bottom of the float into the hole in the inner tank takes patience (how did they do this in production?) but after that assembly is pretty straight forward. I reattached it to the 1971 vacuum source (and with the fuel inlet sealed) it drew down 15” in the upright position. This is the situation when it is sucking fuel from the gas tank. You can put your finger over the fuel inlet and you should feel a vacuum. I then flipped it upside down (this moves the float to the full position) and it correctly stopped drawing engine vacuum and quickly vented the tank through the vent port. Flip it upright and it sealed the vent port and opened the vacuum source. <hurray!> I then installed it on the firewall but ran out of time to test it under actual working conditions. But I am hoping for the best. Thank you, Tim, for your information and insight.
  11. m-mman

    Help ID'ing the maker of this hubcap

    1970-72 specifically. (usually top line LTD) . They are H-E-A-V-Y and have a factory balance sticker on the backside. Generally they stay on, but because of the weight many of them ended up on the side of the road. Finding survivors with bright red centers can be a challenge. The plastic is not reproduced. FoMoCo used similar versions on Thunderbird and 1973-76 LTDs with different centers and other variations.
  12. m-mman

    53 Mercury Paint/Trim Codes

    This Merc parts book, printed in 1954. FYI -The farther away from the date of production the less reliable the information will be. Paint codes generally stay accurate as time goes by because somebody might want to correctly repaint a 5, 10 or 15 year old car. However interior and trim codes are commonly dropped or otherwise corrupted because rarely is anyone going to want to match the upholstery on a 5, 10, 15 year old car. Soft trim are also the first parts that manufactures drop and make obsolete so the codes become meaningless early on. Just reread your post. The 1960(?) parts book is commonly used. You have a April 53 book? Mine is December 53 Perhaps the red/black combos were added??? Especially if your car was built in July of 1953 - (end of the model year)
  13. m-mman

    72 LeSabre coolant tank

    Sounds like perhaps your problems are greater than with the OVERFLOW tank. The plastic bottle connected to the little overflow tube that exits near the radiator cap is for the sole purpose of catching the (little bit) coolant that escapes then holding it such that is is sucked back into the radiator. It's presence does not add in any way to the cooling capabilities of the radiator. If your tank is original and old and it has just cracked and broke, then you can replace it or not with something original or not. However if I remember correctly Buicks of this era used two tanks (radiator and windshield washer) and they are mounted on the radiator shroud and are rather integral to the underhood aesthetics If however your tank "blew apart" and it did so because of the huge force of expanding steam coming from the overflow tube, then you need to do more work with your cooling system before you worry about the bottle.
  14. m-mman

    52 Ford Victoria Gear Selector Arm

    Unlike in the world of 1950s Chevrolets, there is little to no standardized aftermarket parts for the purpose of installing modern components in these cars. You will have to work with what you have.
  15. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    I bought a 'repair kit' several years ago as I was starting the project and didn't know much (I still don't) It came with a cork gasket. When I took it apart this time I reassembled it with some permatex to give a better seal. The JB weld I put around the fuel inlet hole hardened over night and it seems to have helped. when I connected it to the 1971 vacuum source today - and when I sealed up the filter, the vent and the fuel inlet, it quickly rose to a full 15" that the 1971 was putting out. πŸ™‚ BUT open the valve on the filter and the vacuum drops quickly. I think this proves that the flapper valve is NOT holding/sealing OR Open the vent port and the vacuum drops quickly also. I think this proves that the vent port is not sealing. I have a couple of old parts tanks I got at a swap meet. I removed each of the inner tanks (same as mine) and I dipped them into a bucket of water. Fill the tank and each drains easily However, on one the water will seep in and will fill up the tank. If you put your finger and touch the flap momentarily it will seal and not leak water. The other one seals without a problem. Both flaps look the same. Obviously one has a flaw somewhere. How might one recondition the sealing surfaces on the flapper valve? So, perhaps I can take my tank apart and substitute the 'good to seal' inner tank but that would still leave the issue with the leaking vent port. The little 'needle' seal. It is all riveted in place . . . . ? How does one dismantle it? or clean up the cone seal and the seat in the lid?