m-mman

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About m-mman

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  • Birthday 03/11/1958

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  • Location:
    Hacienda Heights California USA

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  1. m-mman

    1960 Edsel Wagon Wanted

    Interesting but you cannot make a 'fake' 1960 Edsel wagon. They only made a little less that 3000 1960 Edsels in all body styles. They made only about 275 1960 Edsels wagons in total. While a 1960 Edsel sedan front clip can be bolted onto a 1960 Ford and the different dashboard and interior trim items can be physically swapped, 1960 Edsel wagons have unique tail trim. The taillight bezels and lenses are smaller than the sedan and there is a huge piece of wagon only diecast trim that connects them. There are no NOS or reproduced trim items. The pieces needed to make a 1960 Edsel wagon, come only from a 1960 Edsel wagon. So, if you have a rusty, beat up, Edsel and you moved the trim and other pieces to a more restorable Ford wagon you have essentially restored the Edsel using the Ford, you have not made a 'fake' Edsel. It is POSSIBLE to move the 1960 Edsel trim from a 2 door sedan to a Ford convertible, (and it might LOOK like an Edsel) but it can never be a 'real' 1960 Edsel as there are subtle details that an EDSEL expert could easily detect to identify the change in body style. Since 1960 Edsel convertibles are big dollar cars any potential buyer would be foolish to not have the car of interest authenticated.
  2. m-mman

    Early 1900's -What is it?

    California does and has had just too many cars to ever try to keep track of. California registration and ownership information has been routinely destroyed/deleted after 8-10 years of non-registration. Because of computer storage since the 21st century this may not be completely true, but it is certainly true going back into the collector car years.
  3. m-mman

    1963 Buick Electra 225 Brake Issues

    I will assume that the rebuilt booster is functioning properly, and that you have a quality vacuum source Is the rubber line plugged? or collapsing? the engine should run very rough and likely stall when it is removed from the booster. If the pedal does not (or has trouble) returning, check the pivot for the pedal. (way up under the dash) It might be stuck/sluggish. Look under the dash find where the booster rod connects to the pedal and disconnect it. The (now free) pedal should swing as easily as a child in a park. If it does not, there is a BIG pivot pin for the brake pedal that can be slid/pushed out after removing whatever retainer clip it has. (spring clip? cotter pin?) NOTE: sometimes the pivot pin is part of the pedal assembly and you slide the entire pedal to the side to remove. There are likely nylon bushings on the pin/shaft and in the support bracket that is holding up the pedal. I have had the nylon bushings stick to either the pin/rod and/or the support bracket. Clean everything up and lubricate the pivots. (I have used a light lubriplate type grease) and reassemble. Again the pedal should swing freely. I think your Buick brake light switch is hydraulic and on the master cylinder, but sometimes the switch is mechanical connected to this linkage. If so, then of course it should not be binding either. The other problem that can be checked is the adjustment of the intake/compensating ports. Remove cover from master cylinder. Look into it as someone pushes the pedal. As the system is pressurized you should see a small 'squirt' (or stream of bubbles) in the fluid coming from the smaller of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. Release the brakes and every time the pedal is pressed you should see this little squirt. (Note: if you slam the pedal hard it should be a big splash - maybe splash in your face - that can make a mess -but then you know it is functioning) If you are not seeing this squirt (bubbles?) consistently, then unbolt the master from the booster and shorten the rod that leads from the booster into the master. (its screw adjustable and it should not take more than a full turn. (maybe even a half turn) reattach the master and again check for the splash with each pedal push.
  4. Nice car and good luck to you in your sale. As a comparison, real estate agents will tell you that (except in very hot markets) houses are rarely sold before being on the market for typically 30 days. 60 to 90 day offerings are not unexpected. While an old car is not as expensive as a house,it does represent a significant investment (both money and space) and quick deals are not typical.
  5. m-mman

    39 Chrysler Brakes all new, NO PEDAL??

    Recap: So you DID have a pedal (albeit low) and then you pushed REAL HARD, and the pedal then (slowly?) fell to the floor? (with no leaks seen under the car) If the above conditions are true then the primary cup in the master cylinder is bad (leaking internally) and allowing the MC piston the pass through the fluid and not compress it. Remove and disassemble the master cylinder and you will likely find the cup to be cut or torn. Replace the rubber parts in the master cylinder.
  6. m-mman

    1964 cadillac sedan deville. Wont crank...

    OP do not get confused. The solenoid in the image above is upside down from the orientation it would have when installed.
  7. m-mman

    1964 cadillac sedan deville. Wont crank...

    GM starters have three connections on the top solenoid part. 1. Battery cable connecting to BIG terminal in the middle. There are also other much smaller wires connected here that bring power into the car that need energy. 2. A little connection that is energized ONLY when the solenoid has engaged the flywheel. This wire brings full 12v power to the coil The dash switch sends a resisted (less than 12v) to the points/coil when it is is the run position and no power to the coil when in the crank position. So this powers the spark when cranking. 3. A little connection that receives 12v from the dash switch when it is in the crank position. Apply 12v here and the power goes thru the winding's on the solenoid, magnetizing the 'slug' inside the solenoid which pulls the starter pinion gear into the flywheel. When the solenoid slug has hit the end of travel it makes the connection between the battery cable and the starter motor. NOTE: There is also a 4th connection on the solenoid. It is a thick piece of copper that comes out of the starter motor and bolts to the solenoid. This connection is bolted in place when the starter and solenoid are joined before installation and not touched after installation. Assumption: You are using a jumper wire to send 12v to the little solenoid connection which activates the starter and it runs. This means that the starter assembly works (and it's associated wires) Now get out your test light. Test: When you turn the key inside does it send 12v to this same wire? (likely not because if it did you would not be having a problem) Trouble shooting goal: Why isn't the key sending 12v to the starter? Suggestions of things to check: Is 12v getting inside to the key? Are the plugs on the firewall clean and solid? How about the wires from the firewall behind the dash up to the key? Is the key sending 12v to the terminal on the back of the switch when it is turned to the start/crank position? Key switches can fall apart inside and look OK on the outside. FYI - The power to the starter, from the key, is routed thru the neutral safety switch. Is the neutral switch passing along the 12v from the key to the starter? check both sides of the neutral switch. This should get you started. Good luck.
  8. The government wants to see a tamper proof number that can be used to identify a specific vehicle and used to match with supporting documentation to establish ownership. Originality aside (steel plate? brass plate? riveted? welded?) if you can not get the correct one, you can use a set of stamps and hammer the numbers (numbers that match your title and hopefully correctly describe the car - year, model etc.) into the metal on the frame. Something permanent is really all a good verifier wants to see.
  9. m-mman

    Please help identify this valve

    1959 Fords & Edsels did not use any water valve to control the temperature of the output on the heater. The 'Hot - Cold" lever moved a door that blended air through the heater core. This meant that during the summer hot water was circulating through the core at all times. Any air that bypassed the blend door would put hot air into the passenger compartment. Instructions in the owners and shop manual suggested turning this valve closed during the summer. However few people did, so they routinely stick in the open position. The suggestion above that they need to be opened and closed regularly is accurate. Aside from leaks, you can leave it open all year long. Or replace it with a straight nipple to connect the hose in a leak free manner. Original style valves that can be opened and closed manually still readily exist and can be found at a good parts house.
  10. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Hchris - I think the short 'filling time' is related to the fact that the tank(s) are full to start with and all the system has to do is refill what was used in the last few moments. If you pull the lid off of a (downdraft) carb, that has a mechanical pump, while the engine is running, you will see that the floats do not drop to empty before they admit additional fuel. They only have to drop 1/16" (?) and fuel runs in under pump pressure. Unlike with a toilet tank, the carb floats don't drop completely & refill, rather they 'vibrate' to keep the fuel level appropriate. The same thing seems to be happening in the vacuum tank. fuel runs into the carb by gravity (so it is always full) and all the tank needs to do is keep adding another 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel into the reserve (pre carb) tank. I was surprised that it was only drawing 5" of vacuum to refill. (As describe above by Pfitz I guess that is enough?) I previously measured 15" at the manifold. Cadillac uses a piston style vacuum pump (powered by the cam) and there is a check valve in the vacuum lines to ensure that there is always a vacuum at the tank. When running, the vacuum at the line that supplies the tank is a bouncing 10"-12". (the bouncing I believe is the effect of the accessory pump) This did not drop below 10" as I reved up the engine as you would expect to see when the gauge is attached directly to the manifold. I can easily see the advantages to having the additional vacuum pump such that your new Cadillac doesn't stall going up a long hill. It is a luxury car after all. 😉
  11. m-mman

    Vacuum tank testing/proof of function?

    Hurray it seems to be functioning! Tim you were correct the old lid was deteriorating where the fuel line screws in . When attached the tension from the line pulled out the nut and broke the casting. 😞 I almost called you but remembered that based on sound advice I picked up two parts tanks at the Bakersfield Model T swap meet a few months ago. I didn't figure I would ever use them but I would dismantle them to better understand the operation. Turns out one had the exact style of top my original tank had. So, remove it clean it, clean up the needle valves with tooth paste and begin sucking and blowing on the ports to verify their function. Reassemble the tank and the new lid, attach it to my 15" vacuum source and With the fuel intake plugged the tank easily drew down to 15" and held it until I inverted it and the float shifted the valves and it dumped its vacuum. Set it upright again and it began immediately pulling 15" of vacuum. Install it on the car. Use the electric pump to get fuel to the carb so that it will run. Start the car. I plumbed a vacuum gauge into the priming hole that was in this lid. (not all lids have this port) This allowed me to sample the presence of vacuum in the center tank. Initially there was no vacuum <yikes> But I discovered that was because the tank was full and it was not calling for fuel. Rev up the engine to empty the float bowl in the carb and sure enough the float in the tank drops,allows vacuum into the tank - about 5" of vacuum - (it aint much, but it means that it is sucking fuel) Then when the tank is full it shuts off the vacuum. Thus allowing atmospheric pressure into the tank and this allows fuel to flow by gravity into the carb. 🙂 I made a couple of short videos of this happening. I think this is the definitive way to watch a vacuum tank function. I have now driven the car around a bit, both on the flat and a hill climb and the vacuum gauge tells me that it is functioning normally sucking in fuel and shutting itself off. It did not stall going up 3-5 minutes of hill climb so it looks like it might be reliable. Now onto fixing other stuff to make it ready for some touring. Does anybody know the cruising (top?) speed I can expect from a 29 Cad? 🤔 Thank you everyone for your help. Jim
  12. m-mman

    1963 Chrysler power brake photo?

    That looks like a heavy ceramic resistor. Generally there are only two like that that are used on a car. One for the ignition/coil (which is already in place next to the booster) and the heater/A-C blower. It should not need a ground, it only slows the blower when the switch is on low speed, and mounding it near the booster in the location suggested above would expose it to the cooling air that it should have when it is operated. (commonly these are mounted inside the heater/A-C box to be cooled)
  13. m-mman

    1931 Nash 890 Ambassador Club Sedan *SOLD*

    Beautiful. Does anybody recognize those hinge pin mirrors? I am looking for a set of 'touring' mirrors for my 29 Cadillac Town Sedan, and these look both practical and stylish. And yeah, I am well over this in just the purchase and mechanical repairs to the Cad. And I still aint done. 😯 Independents have always offered excellent value.
  14. m-mman

    Wiring Question

    As I see it the fuel gauge is the only key switched accessory. The ammeter is always on and the lights have their own switches.... Perhaps because of the design of the integral switch/coil, Dodge felt it was better to provide a separate switched terminal (which had to be located on the coil since the switch contacts are inaccessible) because if the fuel gauge drew power from the coil (rather than straight from the key) they thought it might reduce current to the coil thereby reducing the spark(?) I don't think a fuel gauge is going to draw enough current to upset the coil but if you do put your coil on one terminal of the replacement switch and the gauge on the other it will be just as Dodge did it.
  15. m-mman

    72 LeSabre coolant tank

    Get yourself a shop manual. There is no substitute for the wealth of information inside it. All the vacuum diagrams and troubleshooting diagrams are in there. There are plenty of old car vendors but I have found that if you check eBay you can probably get one for $20- $40