m-mman

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About m-mman

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  • Birthday 03/11/1958

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  1. m-mman

    Why does my 1929 Cadillac ride so poorly?

    FYI - The Cadillac-La Salle club authenticity manual for 25-29 Cads answers the question of spring covers with a question mark "?" I guess they have not settled the matter. . . ? The GM parts book lists 'fabric covers' for 1929 (is fabric also leather?). It lists metal covers for 1931 and up. (It is not clear for the 1930 V-8, the 12 and 16 do list covers) I would not think that they were optional. The Eaton spring video referenced above describes that leaf springs prior to 1950 were engineered (type of steel) to be lubricated and after 1950 the steel is harmed by lubrication.
  2. m-mman

    I think this is a 1937 Renault

    For what it is worth, 1967-8 Thunderbird seats...
  3. m-mman

    Brake lights on again!

    The return spring on the linkage SHOULD be holding the pedal in the full up (off) position. Fix this first! Nothing else in the system holds the pedal up and away from the master cylinder. It is a meaty spring. To check the push rod adjustment on the compensating port: Remove the cap on the master cylinder. look into the reservoir AS YOU PUSH THE PEDAL. There should be a small squirt that appears within the fluid, that is in the reservoir, each time you push the pedal. (if you push real hard or slam it, you can even get it to splash out of the reservoir) If there is no squirt/splash seen - SHORTEN the push rod slightly, and try again. The squirt should consistently happen within the first inch or so of pedal travel. The rod adjusts how much pedal travel is needed to move the piston into the MC bore. There are TWO holes in the MC (you can see both from the top) The big hole is the intake hole it allows fluid to move into the piston chamber. The smaller hole (which should have been verified as not being plugged during the rebuild) allows fluid to move back into the reservoir and RELEASE the pressure as the pedal returns. In the reverse action NO PRESSURE is created in the brake lines UNTIL the piston moves forward and covers this small hole. Then the pedal action can pressurize the system. The rod IS NOT to be used to adjust pedal height! The rod does NOT compensate for improper adjustment at the shoes/drums.
  4. m-mman

    Why does my 1929 Cadillac ride so poorly?

    I have a 29 Cad town sedan. I have only had it for 3 years and my focus has been on the engine and just making it run. There is so much left to learn (I have only driven it around the block once) but I will share what I know about the shock absorber links. The shock links are a socket that fits over the ball on the axle housing. There is a cup shaped rubber pad that fits into the socket and SOMEHOW holds the socket onto the ball(?) I popped one off accidentally and cant get it reattached(!) To remove the link properly you should unbolt the ball from the axle. 😞 Classic and Exotic Services reproduces the rubber socket part https://www.classicandexotic.com/store/p-3775-cadillac-shock-link-rubber-inserts-v8-v12-v16.aspx I have yet to buy or install them on my car (my rubber has turned rock hard) but somehow I think that is what is needed to make the attachment. Also it should be noted that the rear suspension on the 29 Cad is underslung so if you pull out a leaf you will not be able to raise it up with a block/shim at the axle. Because I had the engine out on my car I just went ahead and pulled the steering box. (I dont think it CAN come out with the engine in place). Glad I did this because upon disassembly I discovered that the lube had become so dry it was as if the box was packed in coal. (actual rocks) So never underestimate how dry old hydrocarbons can become.
  5. m-mman

    Vacuum tank fuel filter

    Thank you. Not enough information about the ability for a vacuum tank to draw through an electric pump and/or in line filter. I have that set up on my 29 Cad but have yet to really drive it to know that I wont have problems.
  6. m-mman

    1957 Ford (T-Bird) Power Steering Problem

    Air in fluid causes it to become frothy and increase in volume. In a P/S system this will only happen when it is being pumped - circulated. After shutting down the engine the bubbles/froth will dissipate just like the foam dissipates on the top of a beer or soda. Frothing is not normal it means there is a leak somewhere letting air into the system. (and generally fluid out too, which is how you find the leak) Low fluid level sucks a lot of air into the system and foams significantly To answer your question. In a P/S system fluid is always being circulated. It is sucked from the reservoir into the pump and sent into the system. There are valves and what-not that IF NECESSARY allow the fluid stream to develop pressure and force/assist the wheels to turn and lower the steering effort. If there is no attempt to steer the car (sitting still) the fluid will FLOW ONLY (from the pump, through the system and back to the reservoir) but will not develop pressure. Testing: Car off - Remove dipstick (or cap over reservoir) to check that reservoir is full. (1/4 to 1/2 inch from top) There should be no foam it should be nice ATF color & consistency. Start car DO NOT TURN THE WHEEL and look at the fluid as it circulates. A Ford reservoir sucks the fluid out of the center of the 'can' into the pump and returns it to the SIDE of the reservoir can directing the stream to essentially create a circular flow. In a normal system, at idle, with the top off the reservoir, the flow will be easily seen and will not splash out. (kinda neat to watch) If it is splashing, spraying or beginning to froth, you have a problem. Is there something (control valve?) that is creating pressure when there should be only flow? Is something restricting the flow creating pressure where there should be none? (situation noted above had incorrect filter) Is the reservoir missing a metal shield that directs the flow from the return hose into the circular pattern? Ford used the same pump for many years and there are variations on the reservoir, filters and covers that can inadvertently be switched and cause issues.
  7. m-mman

    Working visible gas pump anywhere?

    Yeah the station at the Gilmore. I have yet to visit but I have seen it pictured many times. Real nice for a background but I kinda see non-functional visible pumps (especially at a museum) like displaying a Curved dash Olds or a '03 Model A without its engine or drive system. It sits there. But I want to understand how did it work?
  8. m-mman

    Working visible gas pump anywhere?

    Owning your own original underground tanks(!) Wow, that would never happen in California. Interesting that the BC station seems to have nozzles with automatic shut offs. . . ? As I understood a visible pump operation you 'agreed to buy' what was moved into the jar and ran it out into your car. To 'fill it up' you needed to know approximately how much you needed to pump in before you started. How did this station calculate their charges? Pump 8 gallons up into the jar and if you only put 5 gallons into your car, they would subtract what you didnt use? Would they have run the 'excess' back into the underground tank, or left it for the next customer?
  9. Everybody has seen ancient visible gas pumps. Many have been 'restored' through repainting and aesthetic improvements. Some have been converted into aquariums, drink refrigerators or other non-automotive appliances. Recently I was attempting to explain to somebody HOW a visible gas pump worked and why it was designed to be visible. It was hard for them to understand and brought to my mind a question. Does a WORKING visible gas pump exist anywhere? I am talking about one (museum maybe?) where you can actually move the handle, fill the jar, and then open the hose to dispense the fuel. The liquid doesnt have to be real gas, it can flow into a simulated 'car' and be recycled. I am interested in experiencing filling and draining the visible part and understanding how much force it takes to pump the liquid into the jar and how quickly it empties. I think that there are very few people around anymore who can say that they actually experienced a working visible pump. Although they never existed in my world, I would like to share that antique car experience before I die. Experiencing other types of WORKING antique gas pumps would be great too. But where are they?
  10. m-mman

    Any help identifying this car?

    The 53 Ford is the Customline model. Differentiated from the cheaper Mainline by the long molding on the 1/4 panel blister. \ If the standing woman would step to the side, we could see what type of transmission it had. 😉
  11. m-mman

    Abandoned car found in Death Valley

    Death Valley - one of the driest places in the world. As a side note if it is within the boundaries of Death Valley National Park it will have to stay exactly where it is. All items within a national park are protected and may not be removed or molested. Scotty's castle has on display an original 1917(?) Packard touring that was originally used at the ranch and a 'pile' of junkers out back in a dump area. As I remember the newest was a 1950-53 Cadillac CDV. Way back when it was too expensive to remove them, so they were left where they fell. Today they are protected historical artifacts.
  12. m-mman

    1948 Ignition V12 problems Lincoln/Zephyr

    These distributors mounted to the end of the camshaft are quite unique are not easily modified or updated. Adapting a different design is basically impossible. Their failings and weak points are well understood and there are people who can put them right including rebuilding parts that were designed to be disposable. Search (and join) Lincoln Zephyr Owners club.
  13. m-mman

    1927 Elcar with lots of questions

    I have a 1929 Cad. The fuel gauge on it is a two wire system. Power comes to the dash unit then two wires go back to the tank. There is zero resistance when the gauge needle and float is at 1/2 tank. As the float goes up and down there is increased resistance for THAT SIDE of the gauge. If the wires are swapped full reads empty and empty reads full. I did find shops that rebuilt the sending unit and the gauge - non cheap - $300 for the sender and $500 for the gauge (it has two coils to be rewound). Both done well and now it does work.
  14. m-mman

    1958 (I think) Mercury - but what model?

    Introduced for 1956, dropped for 1957, returned (temporarily) for 1958, then gone forever... Not the best-sounding model name. Difficult to spell, has hard "T" ending, doesn't bring to mind beautiful places or images.
  15. m-mman

    1932 Packard 902 5-passenger (Victoria) Coupe

    The perspective on values that is consistently left off, is the COST OF RESTORATION. Mr. boeve you have said that you like to talk repairs. Do you comment on the cost of those repairs? Parts, paint, chrome, fabric, time, skill level of experts and use of specialty tools (machining) . . . . It would not be possible to pull a shabby original out a barn and put it in this condition for the price it is being offered for. I try to evaluate the asking price of a car by SUBTRACTING the cost of the 'REPAIRS' that it is wearing. In doing so I have found many cars (even those priced at tens of thousands of dollars) are actually being offered "FOR FREE" if only you pay a discount on the restoration work that was done to it. BTW - buying multiple Duesenbergs for the purpose of correcting the 'damage' that was done years ago through engine and body swaps?? Impressive. Putting things right again? That is hobbyist activity.