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About m-mman

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  • Birthday 03/11/1958
  1. 1970s Ford EVF - Fairlane?

    Yes a 1973 Ford full size. The cheap, cheap version! No bumper guards or rub strips, no chrome trim around the parking lights. I am surprised that it is wearing full wheel covers. It is pillared four-door hardtop, because they dropped the full sedan style in 1972. I would have to consult the brochures but it is certainly a Galaxie 500 and might even be a Custom 500. During the years '70-76 the focus was on the cars wearing the LTD name (including LTD Brougham) and the Galaxie and Custom names were constantly being slimmed down as to the number of body styles that wore them. (two-door, four-door wagon etc) until only the "LTD" name remained.
  2. 1928,, 30, 31 Caddilac Hood Handles

    There were some on ebay recently. I dont think they were ever sold. Search completed auctions. They may have been listed as 1929. . . ?
  3. Why updraft carbs?

    Yup, it is a Johnson. . . . I guess it was designed in house by a Mr Johnson at GM/Cad(?) Supposedly it has a thermostatic control to adjust the mixture. . . . . It was evaluated by the folks at Classic and Exotic Services in Michigan (They make all the parts for these) and pronounced it 'healthy' (?) I have had many other issues with the car and I am just now beginning to to think that i might get to start operating it for an extended time and maybe driving it for a distance. It has been a long uphill battle so far. Typical restoration experience you are all familiar with
  4. Why updraft carbs?

    Thank you all. Understanding the way things work (technology) seems to be much easier going forward ("These are the improvements") than going backwards ("Why did they do that?")
  5. Why updraft carbs?

    I am new to 1920s & 1930s cars so excuse me if this seems like a stupid question. I have long history with 50s & 60s cars and understand them well. In an effort to experience an "old" car before I die, I have acquired a 1929 Cad and a 1926 Lincoln. Acquainting myself to the ancient technology has been a very steep learning curve. Mechanical brakes, vacuum fuel systems, three brush generators, etc. are not things I have had any experience with, but S-L-O-W-L-Y I am beginning to understand them. (and there are few 'old guys' around who could explain things that I have been able to connect with) I am working to learn the cars on their own terms and not 'improve' them. But some of the technology has me baffled. One question I have not found an answer to (and I have searched) WHY updraft carburetors??? Gravity pulls things down. The 1900s stationary engines that autos were based on seem to use side draft carbs at least. Opposed engines seem to have downdrafts. Either an inline or V type engine, why use an updraft? It either makes for a strange V type set up having the carb so deep in the valley, or in an inline it puts the air intake almost at the dirt road surface and without an air filter. By the early 30s most everyone seems to have agreed that downdraft was superior. What were the ancient automobile engineers thinking that caused them to choose an updraft set up from the beginning?
  6. Short answer: some/many of those things mentioned do not care whether the ground is positive or negative. . . Many other things however DO care very much. 12 volt vs 6 volt - 12 volt is an increased 'pressure' in your system. 6 volt things spin faster, burn brighter and get hotter when given a 12 volt diet. Likely why the seller might have made the switch. However, putting 12 volts to a 6 volt system is like whipping an old tired horse. It might force something to work for a short term, but it is going to kill things in the long term. It is a good choice on your part to sort out your issues by retaining the 6 volt parameters. Perhaps you can post a picture of your battery and your cables? There are things that experienced eyes can see that you cant, yet.
  7. Not yet mentioned is the size of the battery. (Cold Cranking Amps) Not all 6 volt batteries are equal. A 6 volt Volkswagen battery wont work. A 6 volt lawn tractor battery wont work. . . . It takes a big heavy (truck size?) battery to create enough AMPERES to spin over that beast. Unlikely that Autozone or any 'popular' parts house is going the have the correct battery. BTW - Welcome to the collector car hobby. One of the things car collectors ENJOY is FIXING and REPAIRING their cars. Serious car people do not expect their new purchases to be perfect the first time (FYI- a lemon is just a car that needs further diagnosis) and they expect to have to LEARN about their car. (as you seem to want to do) Repairing helps you to 'become one with your car'. Stick with it, enjoy the car ON IT"S TERMS and you can have a lot if fun.
  8. I am still new to 20s & 30s cars. Where is the best place to get replacement belts for the side mount tires on my 1929 Cadillac? I would think that there might be a better place than a clothing store and a cheaper place than having them made at a harness shop.
  9. Spindle reinstalled opposite side from original

    You installed them without issues (or use of force) so they must be pretty similar between the two sides. Sometimes it maters, sometimes it doesn't. One way to check these things is to compare the manufactures part number. (do you have a parts book?) If the same part is used Right and Left, then it uses the same number and the orientation doesn't matter. If the R & L numbers are different then SOMETHING is different between them. You can also look in the shop manual or lubrication charts for references to the grease fittings and see which side they are on.
  10. How to reinstall front springs

    What is the car? Typical suspension where the spring is between the frame and the lower control arm the nut to pull the spring together must be accessible through the hole in the control arm. (the cup in the frame is commonly 'sealed') Things to know: The length of the threaded rod does not change. Only one set of arms on the compressor moves up and down the threaded part. The threaded part SEEMS to grow, only because the spring is compressing. The arm piece that rides against the nut must be as close to the end of the spring as you can get it To keep the threaded part short enough to not hit the cup in the frame, mount the arms of the compressor as closest to the ends of the spring as they will go. This will compress the entire length of the spring (not just the middle) and should allow the spring to become small enough to be inserted or removed. YES sometimes this is difficult! I have had to hook the arms onto the spring and 'thread' them 'deeper' on the spring by twisting the arm assembly such that it is gripping very near the end of the spring. (very deep into the cup in the frame) Very limited space and you have to be dexterous to place it. (Or remove the compressor arm assembly once you have installed the spring.) Of course the control arm must be free to swing on the bushings as much as possible to allow insertion/removal of a spring that is not fully compressed. On 1957-64 Fords I have to use a pry par to hook the (not fully compressed) spring on the control arm protrusion to get it all to fit. If the spring works against the upper control arm (Falcon? Mustang?) there is usually enough access through the shock holes and control arm that this is not a problem.
  11. Horn ring I.D.?

    It should be noted that this is the Mercury DELUXE wheel, a rather rare option. Hence the reason it was difficult to recognize Good job
  12. Radiator Woes

    I had the Brassworks put a new honeycomb core in my 1929 Cadillac. I was told the honeycomb cores are made only in England. (by request?) It took 3-4 months and cost $2000 . . . . Yeah, it hurt but what else are you gonna do? I wasn't sure how good or bad the old one was, but I had rebuilt the engine (not cheap) and made everything else new, so I just did it. Maybe off topic but another skill that has disappeared is carburetor rebuilding. Carb kits for 1950s -1960s versions are still $20-$40. I have plenty of good cores I can build, but IF you try to buy one (rebuilt?) the sellers want $300-$500 minimum. I cant buy a Motorcraft 4 barrel CORE for less than $200. Old parts, needing old skills, that are quickly dying off.
  13. 1960s Lincoln grille piece?

    I am very familiar with 1964 Lincolns and I don't recognize it. The chrome, holes and curve at the bottom makes me think rocker panel molding, but It is not '64 Lincoln rocker panel. The end with the two holes and the ridge butts up against something...
  14. Looking for Packard twelve

    Hummm. . . the presumably translated(?) text on the website is something that would seem very suspicious if I were to see it in an email.
  15. I will go with 1963-64 Chevrolet