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About BearsFan315

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  • Birthday 01/31/1975

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  1. yeah was wondering if the mold was not hot enough or cooling to fast !? hopefully they get that figured out and take care of, or if it is the actual mold make a new one
  2. BearsFan315

    Using 3D technology

    love this, doing some of this on my 1929 Chevrolet I am restoring. needed a spacer, none available, designed it up in CAD, 3D printed a few of various thickness and then test fitted. few other parts I am working on as well I do a LOT in CAD, when i have to make a new gasket I digitize the original, then i can print a paper 1 : 1 and trace out on material. this way IF a gasket is detroyed I have a digital file to recreate it no worries. Technology is Grand when you use it for resourceful reasons !! now to 3d print the parts i need and find a guy like you all that can pour and cast them here is a shot of 3 spacers of various thicknesses wondering if the 3d print was accurate, holes were dead on !!
  3. been installing my new floor and wood, and got the mat installed so put in the accelerator pedal. thought i would follow up on the anti-rattle spring with some pictures of my install. Accelerator Rod, Spring, Washer small spring from my local hardware store, 1/4 SAE Flat Washer Accelerator Rod Installed through Carburetor Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Front Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Rear Anti-Rattle Spring, Washer, Return Spring Installed From Top Not sure if this is 100% correct, but it seems to hold together and fit Nicely. The Return Spring goes around the front bolt/ stud of Exhaust Manifold.
  4. Power Cable from Battery to Starter Top Down Look of New Cables Ground Bolt Outside Frame Rail These cables are pretty rigid, but will Flex if needed. I plan to FULLY Tighten down the connection on the starter and Disc Switch ONCE the battery is in and Cables Routed and Secured. Need to be able to swivel the lug on the Bolt to get the proper Angle !! May just toss the battery in and fine tune them to be certain. that way there is no more adjusting and configuring later. Battery will go in and stay in after that. will connect charge cables to the battery connectors for ease of access and use.
  5. Installed all the new power and ground cables last night. Ground cable to Frame Rail Ground Cable to Disconnect Switch Frame Rail on the Right, Battery on the Left Looking Forward
  6. Few shots of the Mat installed, I had to order Pedal Rubber, will install those once they arrive Pedal Shot Drivers Side Passengers Side Floor Shot
  7. Pictures of the Rubber Mat from TFS Top Side Fisher Logo Close-Up Close Up of Creases/ Wrinkels from the Rubber Mold these are the marks people talk about and refer too when they talk about waves, creases, wrinkles in the rubber mats. One Supplier for everyone
  8. installed and secured the wood in the 1929 today Drivers Side 1 Drivers Side 2 Passengers Side Battery Cover Installed[/quote]
  9. got the wood all stripped down, then applied 3 coats of Helmsman to it. ooh does it look nice, yes i used satin did NOT want the bowling ally shine !! Disconnect from underneath car Disconnect from Top Side Disconnect Switch this is permanent install, well at least I hope. used flat head, slotted screws and countersunk holes for clean install. the switch was installed just high enough to get the key in and turn it and NOT rub the wood or interfere. it is also slightly tucked under the front seat, hopefully out of the way of anyone and everyone feet !! Touched up the paint on the battery tray and around where i ground off the paint on the frame rail for the ground cable and hardware. i want to make sure i have a GOOD SOLID GROUND !!
  10. Well started assembling the parts back on the Floor/ Toe Board for my 1929 Toe Board 01 Front Toe Board 01 Back Toe Board 02 Front Toe Board 02 Back got this all ready to go back in, had to touch up some paint on the frame rail and clean up the area for the ground cable to connect to the frame rail. once that is all done and dried i will install all the floor wood.
  11. Lahti35 thanks !! lots of time, love, and work on my 1929 will be glad when it is back on the road and driving
  12. Just for reference... Here is a comparison of the finish colors of The Original vs Now Helmsman vs Original Side by Side you can see the Color Differences Helmsman vs Now Looks a lot closer
  13. spent some time working on the Floor Wood. I spent a week or so trying to match up finishes and colors on what Ted (Chistech) di on the Oak he installed under the seat. After many tries and not getting close I threw in the towel and pulled the seat, sanded and stripped the piece of wood and then put 3 coats of Helmsman on it and the Floor Board & Toe Boards. I put on a coat, let it sit 12 hours, lightly sanded with 220 sand paper, then applied another coat. have to say that it came out really nice, probably too nice. 2 coats would have sufficed, but directions said 3 to seal... I also used the Satin finish, did NOT want a shiny coat. Ted Board Refinished with 3 Coats Helmsman Close Up Floor Board Top Side Toe Board Top Side I will let them CURE for the next few days then install them and secure them for now
  14. i did NOT scan it, i did it digitally from a picture in AutoCAD
  15. I plan to mount it under the wood, so only the center post of the Switch will be visible, and can place the key or cap on it when needed. however the post was way to long and stuck way above the wood, so i needed a way to lower the switch and securely mount it. 3d Printing to the rescue, i designed a spacer and printed it out in PLA on my handy dandy 3d desktop printer. Switch and 3d Printed Spacer Top view of Spacer the holes line up perfectly and fits nicely. Test fir of swtich and Spacer Top view of Test Fit With key installed When it gets permanently installed i will use machine screws, flat head slotted so they will sit flush with the wood.