BearsFan315

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About BearsFan315

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  • Birthday 01/31/1975

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  1. if it goes above, then it has to go over the mat. which looks ok, if you ever have to remove the toe board, you have to move grommet, mat, then parts.but then any water from below gets in between the metal and mat up to grommetif it goes under, then it is remove mat, then toe board, and done.water would hit grommet and disperse, as long as grommet was tight against the metal.
  2. ok, so how does the Steering Column Grommet get installed. Steering Grommet Top Steering Grommet Bottom Does the Raised Surface (TOP) FACE the INSIDE or the OUTSIDE of the Car (Engine Bay) Does the LONG Side go up or down ?? (the side with the extra rubber between column hole and outside edge) Does it come in contact with the Metal Plates that goes on the Toe Board and Fire Wall ?? Raised Face Up - Under Metal Plates Raised Face Down - Under Plates Raised Face Up - On top Metal Plates
  3. ok here are pictures of my Upper Metal Plate 1929 Upper Metal Plate 01 1929 Upper Metal Plate 02 1929 Upper Metal Plate 03 1929 Upper Metal Plate 04
  4. working on fitting up my new Wood for my 1929 for Floor and Toe. scanned the manuals and can not seem to find what hardware should be used to secure it to the sheet metal/ inserts. looks to be 1/4-20 but are they slotted round, slotted flat ?!? Wood Rough Install 1 Wood Rough Install 2 Wood Rough Install 3
  5. talked to Bill today out at Uvira, they are still in business and doing the reflectors. cost is $75 a pair and includes return shipping IF you include the check in the box on its way out. turn around it 2-3 days. they have a New shipping address, vs the one listed. and if you send via USPS they have a Post Office Box they check daily, other shipments go to a physical address they check routinely. so USPS is fastest way to get them something !!Actually had a really good conversation with him when he called me back. He told me he had a stroke recently, so he is a little slower but still kicking and working hard.seems to really enjoy what he does especially for old cars. He is a true fan old cars, and says he gets pictures from his clients and post them all over his wall. He is particularly a fan of Chevrolet, the 1929 in particular says it is a good looking car, says it is a far better car than the F**d. Told me story of friend who owned one as a kid, then sol when he got older, then turned around and realized he missed his car, and went and bought it back, and still owns it to this day.Will be sending mine his way soon, once they get straightened and nickeled. They do require that the reflectors be cleaned up, and nickel plated then polished before they get them. as all they do is aluminize them. said they used to do the entire process but is tedious and requires way more time, man power, and equipment.doing the aluminum coating is the easy part
  6. done a ton of searching and looking at the aluminized coating route, calling today to get pricing and such from Uvira, Inc. also a place that is in Ohio or kentucky does it as well. will provide details once i get em !!did not see anything on material, looks like mine are painted or coated black on one side and then silvered on the other also one seems to have a ding that makes a slight crease in the reflector, can that be fixed or not ??? I can live with it if not, will not be truly visible unless you take it apart and look closely at in.
  7. What material is the 1929 headlamp Reflector made of ??seems to be a thin sheet of metal ? or is that just from the coating looking into having them recoated
  8. Checking to see what is Correct/ Original for a 1929 4 Door, this is the Main Ground from the Battery to the Frame Rail (passenger Side) I checked the MPL and it list Cable, Ground Wondering if it was a Web Style Grounding Strap or just a plain ole Grounding Cable (Rubber/ Plastic Coated) ?? What Gauge is Recommended by the Pros here for best performance ?? Stock Length ?? This is what I have now from PO 1929 Ground Cable I plan to clean it all up, get a proper ground metal to metal, touch up paint, etc. This is what TFS has in their Catalog Ground Strap 9.5" , 12", or 14" long Also reading on here, there was talk about Grounding to the Drivetrain ?? is this required/ recommended on the 1929 ?? If so from where to where, and then same as above ?? strap or cable ?! Were the Battery Connectors for battery were the simple straight style:or something else ??
  9. is this the one ?? Home with detached garage, Vintage cars, greenhouse, and personal prop. Saturday, April 21, 2018
  10. Well ALL my bulbs finally arrived !! bought what i needed and then a few spares, bulbs were cheap. 1929 Bulbs just in case, the top right bulbs are Head Lamp #1000 from TFS, they are stamped china #1188
  11. once it was built, time to test it out... figured the best way to test a vacuum motor is with a vacuum !! but how to adapt it to the motor ?? I took my small house cordless vacuum, and then taped my plastic dollar tree turkey baster on to the end of the hose using vinyl tape (electrical tape). wanted to avoid any vacuum leaks. then the turkey baster end was a little to big for the vacuum connection, so wrapped a few turns of vinyl tape around the fitting and got a NICE SNUG fit. fired up the vacuum and NOTHING happened. short panic set in and thought the wiper was trash :/ then i thought how much vacuum is this vacuum actually pulling, so hooked it up to the Vacuum gauge, and it barely pulled 1 inch of Hg. so swapped out the cordless for the 5 gal shop vac. it pulls about 4 in of Hg. so connected it to the vacuum wiper motor. and away the wiper went. i was happy. let it run for a minute to make sure everything works correctly. just for you guys, I shot a short video, make sure you turn down the SOUND, the Vacuum is LOUD !! Vacuum Motor Mechanisms at Work Vacuum Wiper Swinging Wiper Arm videos are a little large, so may take a few minutes to initialize and run but they are cool, especially the one with the mechanisms Link to ALL 1929 Vacuum Wiper Motor Pictures Now it needs to be cleaned up/ remove extra grease, and then painted BLACK and installed.
  12. Then time to rebuild the paddle and then the Vacuum Assembly. I read instructions a few times, dry fir the builds, then assembled and secured. Vacuum Body Greased Up Paddle Greased Up Vacuum Body Cover Greased Up Gasket Installed Then Assemblies the parts, installed the mechanisms that make it work. Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 01 Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 02 Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 03 Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 04 Vacuum Wiper Rebuild 05 I ONLY had to trim one small section of the gasket, easily done with a razor blade. and realized on my model I did NOT really need the ROUND stop Sealer, but oh well.
  13. after tearing everything down time to clean each part up, remove the old grease and grime. I took my time doing this as NOT to damage any surfaces or break anything. also the copper parts of the paddle are very thin !! and their are NO replacements. Here is a shot of the rebuild kit Trico Rebuild Kit Side by side of OLD vs NEW Paddle Seal Paddle Seals
  14. Well spent the weekend tearing down and rebuilding the wiper motor. I Took my time, broke it down and laid out all the parts as i took them apart, took pictures of most every step along the way. followed the instructions that came with my rebuild kit, even ordered an extra gasket just in case i destroyed the one in the kit !! 1929 Wiper Motor Original 01 1929 Wiper Motor Original 02 1929 Wiper Motor Original 03 1929 Wiper Motor Original 04 1929 Wiper Motor Original 05 Basic Tear Down of the MAIN components Main Parts Spread Original Gasket on Wiper Body Cover Original Wiper Paddle Tore Down the Original Wiper Paddle Wiper Paddle Parts
  15. 1937 Graham for sale

    are they supposed to ROLL when parked ?? thought they were supposed to stay parked