jenz38

Hope the Seal around the Flapper are still intact?..also the round Seal on one side of the Flapper?.. the you have a Chance. Use the clean flapper for measuring the Housing by our feeling. It must be at all positions similar the same brake loose power while wiping through the housing. Look for small bubbles(damages) they come/grow out of the Aluminium material in direction where the Flapper runs,this will slow down/brake the Flake the Flapper massive. What they also don't like ist when then complete Motor ist drop down and you have small dents in the relatively thin Motor Wall. Mostly it helps if you grinding the surface of the Housing with fine 320 wet sand paper in direction where the Flapper works. Instead of water i use WD 40 or something else. The Flapper must work even soft from side to side,then it's ok. For greasing I use batterie grease because its acid free. Good luck.

When al it's ok...check our your idle mixture is correct ?.. Screw for first start after Carb repuild should be 1,5 turns out.

Check also the Choke ,it opened correctly and not sucks to close position while accelerate? Or an Air leak at Intake manifold to Head ,or at the Carb to Manifold Gasket ?.. seen often wrong gaskets there.. Check also your Wiper Hose for Air leaks. good Luck, to find the Problem and keep us postin' M2C

Correct 👍🏼... Take a cardboard plate onto the Rad Core to save it for damaging while you pull the Rad out.

🙂👍🏼

If its so tight then you.must pull the Horn Contact out of the steering shaft. Important then is, to let the Nut on the shaft for safety if the wheel comes of. Take the puller onto it with maximum power without damaging the top of the hollow shaft and Thread, then hit with a hammer onto the end of the Puller bolt. Normally the Wheel should comes loose with a loud bang,that's why the Nut must stay on the upper end of the Shaft thread. Good Luck

Thanks for postin the success 👍🏼..where do you have find them?

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I forgot, the Crank from a manual Car has a bigger bolt circle and especially bigger center hole dia than the one from a automatic tranny Crank. There isn't enough meat for maschining it to match the automatic crank.

Sam , with the complete engine to the Maschineshop is only , because you can let the Engine complete assembled. Of course ,you can only take the Crank to it. The pilot bearing adapter is not heavy pressed inside the Crank, yuu can fix it at home with a Hammer without problem, if you take my drawing sizes. For open drivetrain You need a two link system for rear axle, like the chevy C 10 from mid 60s or a new kit (Speedway motors). The small leaf springs and brackets alone ,aren't stable enough. For the rest feel free.. it's your Car.

Jim ,tell us your suggestion for fixing Sams 37 tranny /263 Dynaflow issue. A overdrive is nice,I like it too.., but first he must have a matching engine in front of its Transmission. In my case ,I never would destroy the original condition of my absolutley traditional 50style build 38 with a v8, especially not a unimaginative SBC. My Car has a soul and never would hurt him with things like this. All my original parts stored and 100% demountable.

This are the drawings , they are in metric This/My Flywheel is also 3 kg lighter than oem, for quicker acceleration.. 😉

👍🏼... Ah, ok..that's with the 4 bolt carb was new to me too. The Dynaslow will not fit to the lenght of the '37 Torquetube, I think Also you will be not satisfied with the OEM rear end ratio of 4.44 because of the additional slip in the Converter instead of the direct 3rd speed on a manual transmission. My suggestion, Take the 37 flywheel, 4,0 Cherokee Clutch,and the 263 to a machine shop, they can make you a Flywheel with the boltcircle and center hole from the Dynaflow Crank. Starter ring you can get new from Bob for shrinking it fresh on the new Flywheel. They can also machining you a adapter insert inside the Crank for the installation of a pilotbearing from a 95 silverado. This adapter is on outside like a cone, you press it into the crank and tack welding it on outside for safety. That's like me has done this.

Yes, the on Cyl 7/8 angled ,late intake manifold will look a little bit stupid in a 37 ,the Carb would always stay to much "ahead".. If you have the old Manifold, not angled from the 248 ,i would prefer this. The carb is with 4 bolt flange, instead of the 3 bolt of our ones and won't fit onto the intake,as Bruce said also.

The Waterpump and it's short cast iron angled tube on driver side is also 263 only. If you don't have this tube maybe Dave have one for a 263 ?. The 38 Fuelpump is fit in the 263 block, I also ride the 38 OEM pump on the 263 because it looks cleaner than the Fuel Vacuum combo of the later rigs. 248 Manifolds fits to the 263 with little metal work in front of it ,because of the angled water tube in front. Cheers Jenz

Your 263 is out of a manual tranny car ? You can see it if you have a throwout bearing or the flange for it inside the crank. If not, you can not installing easily your 37 flywheel to this 263 automatic crank. You need a adapter for installing a TO bearing inside the crank an the bolt circle also is different.

You have solid (more noises,like mine )or hydr. Lifters ?..(may be a single hyd.Lifter stuck a little). I would say ,check the valve clearance, Check for that the Oil pressure is good like always.. Check for no oil smelling (consumption) out of the Exhaust and the for the Cooling system is ok.., make a fresh Oil change before you start and then I would go. So often I see bad running old engines,because of so much cold starts and short distance runs with low temperature and low Revs. That's not healthy for old style Carburetor Engines. They start to build oil crust everywhere in the Valve seat and Piston area. They run much better after a long distance run at good operating temperature because of it burned all the crust off.

I run Radials (like the sizes: front 6.50x16,rear 7.50x16) because of the much more stable run,especially when ruts on the streets. Before the radials i had fresh Firestone (WW) bias Tyres..,man what a different in stability.. The bigger Tires in the rear gives me 5 mph more speed at the same Engine revs. My car also is nearly 2" lower in front and rear. An I find it looks good on my 38 Coupe . I'll never wanna ride with WW's because,I find meanwhile it's not fit on a "cheap,poor" Special. My opinion...😉 Since years I like the look with the black walls, every day again. M2C

If you have no hump rims it's always saver to use tubes .

I run also a 140 grade oil, with the best results.

May be this Thread from 2017 helps you?

Not mine, but found it in german "small"-Ebay. https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/armaturen-oldtimer-buick-1931/1634759719-223-7602?utm_source=sharesheet&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android If somebody is interested in, click on green field "Nachricht" and send a non difficult message. (The most people here understand English).

Look at Bob's Automobilia... ,They sell them.

If you will you decide to swap it,here my experiences : I had done it too on my '38. The old Frontplate will work fine on the 363,also the Flywheel (attention here,marking the location on the crank!,it will fit in all positions if you don't mark it). All Aggregates from the 248 will fit,(also my better looking small '38 Fuelpump), except the Waterpump,Thermostat housing and its tubes, that you need with the Engine. The 2 upper threads from the 263 sidemounts you must block with its srews, because they goes into crankcase,and starts otherwise to leak. May be you have problems with the position of the crankcase ventilation tube on passenger side, the rocker cover from the 248 looks like similar but doesn't fit to the 263. But this is peanuts ..;-).. M2C

🙂👍🏼