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About jenz38

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Location:
    Germany,near Bremen


  • Biography
    Lifters-CC ,Germany
    Car : Buick Special Coupe in original rustfree condition with stripped nostalgic Hotrod Style with a hot 263 Engine .

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  1. Master Cylinder Rebuild for a 37

    Let Sleeving your Cylinder... 👍🏼. The Problem is the deep rusted damages inside the Cylinder ...., only a Rebuild Kit will not fix that Problem.

    Man... thats a Dream for me too,since Years...,an Overdrive in my 38 Special ... The hopped up 263 has an easy play with my lighten up Car . for Autobahn it would be perfect. 1500 Dollar sounds at first very nice...i would pay it without a big think about it. But if i think ahead about the costs for the freight to him to Ohio and back to me in Germany gets me very sick ...🤢.. Sometimes....if i had save enough Money...😉

    Good to see that still some guys understand and love theyr job . As i pulled out my windows i drilled 2 holes into the glas near the front frame in upper and lower position so i could pushed it out between the secured frame an this holes with a srewdriver carefully. By the way.. here is a Pic out if my manual from the oem vent window puller:
  4. Front Passenger door locks- why only there?

    On my '38 Sr.40Coupe it was like the same.... I simply has changed the complete outside Doorhandle from passenger to driverside and the other direction. I must only drive out the srew in the small hole near the Doorlock ... Its to see it if i open the door, When the screw is out ,i can pull the handle out of the door. I think it will work like the same at other models an years.
  5. Unkown Emblem

    Thanks alot 😉👌
  6. Unkown Emblem

    Anybody knows who is is from ? A friend of mine own it since 20 years Thanks ahead guys
  7. Buick straight 8 running rough, help plz

    Your Choke flapper are fully open if Engine is warm ? ...if not , its possible that its will suck to closed position under load. Also i would try an testride without aircleaner...maybe the old full metal ones are clogged with dirt.
  8. '38 Special gas mileage

    Here a pic of mine :
  9. '38 Special gas mileage

    Jeff, You had think about our aircleaner ? The old oilbath things are often clogged. I run newer, modern ( full stainless ,washable Holley marine-) 18" Airfilter on my Compound System (run it with 2 identical front carbs and straight linkage ) and it only go up to 12 mpg , if i run over 55 mph. If i stay under 55, normaly my coupe run with 17.5 mpg , at a soft sportive driving style.. Your Points and Valve gap (i drive with .004" less than the original .016" ) are correct ?...,and your Choke-flapper are full open ,when warm ? ;-). Exhaust too, an inside broken clogged muffler results the same problem ..less power and high consumption. .. i would say, try at first a fresh Airfilter... ;)...
  10. 1949 fuel pump

    Whats the problem with your pump ? ...leaking ? ...or no gas pumping ? this case i wuold open the upper cover (the 10 Bolts) and check first the diaphragm for damage and under it the both valves (ca.1" diameter) one for "in" and one for "out". I last time ,i had a pump on the Bench,there was the only Problem ,that this valve comes out of the housing... ,they are pressed and at the corner rivited with a Chisel or like that. I presses it back into the housing and thats it. Another Problem was,the repairkits are had the wrong size Valves and also a wrong diaphragm-size inside. Ordered from Bob for the right year. only M2C
  11. Straight 8 buying advice

    Nice rare car...👍🏼.. An 320 with a manual box,for me too ,is a must have in a '37 automatic tranny will not match ( for me) into a atentic prewar car . for me its a streedrod then, disco-billet- Wheels ,and a GM tilt coulumn with a boring Grant is not far away then .... (for my opinion ...😉). Be prepared this Buick parts are all "one Year only" parts.. look for the right big '37 synchromesh. For the 320 Engines, it will work with all later 320s (they have also better sealing in rear and the front mountingplate on the early engines will fit onto the newer ones ). Mainthing is,that they will come out of a car with manual Tranny.. because of they have different boltcircle and pilotbearing inserts in the crank instead of the Auto trannys. M2C
  12. Clutch fingers hitting friction plate springs

    They start with a real rear sealing (Rope) in '39 ... befor this ,there where no seal, only a spiral on the Crankshaft for outcoming oil running back into the oilpan. On an engine with higher inner pressure (worn out or brand new Pistonrings, too .) ,this spiral system will not work correctly and dont let run the oil ,against the pressure , back into the pan. And No James, its not possible to upgrade the pre '39 engines with a real sealing. I had the same problem with my original 38 engine an swirched over to a Engine of rhe 40's. Best gaskets offer a rubber 2 piece seal from '36-'53 ,but thats wrong,correct is from '39-'53 straight eights. I send a mail to BG for this mistake...if i remember right, they have changed the year-range in theyr (newer)offer.
  13. Clutch fingers hitting friction plate springs

    Put it all together,open the upper Bellhousing Hole from inside od the Car an adjust the finger from here so they will have all 3 a Gap of ca. 0.1" between it and the Throwout-Bearing in released Position (Pedal also full back with its rubber gasket in the Hole in your floor). A Washer under the ballstud i wuold only add ,if its nessessary . With this job your clutch should work properly .. Feel free an adjust like this your pedal pressure point like you like it and feel anatomic the best for your size. ( i like it ,to feel the pressure point with the heel on the floor). I done it like this, before i switched over to a jeep cherokee pressure plate,because of the rattleling when the clutch comes in. Another tip..Let your dust pan ,under the Bell, all times off ... in my case the Oil fog in it ,from the rear (pre '39) engine "sealing" ,will not lubricate the friction plate at higher revs .. M2C
  14. Steering wheel removal

    The 41 has also the horn contact cable in the center of the shaft?.... Then you must remove it first . don't push with the Srew from the tool onto this contact. the shaft you must protect it too, dont let the tool screw run directly on the shaft. In my case i pull the wheel without tool from the loosen the nut NOT COMPLETELY OF !!! and step with one feet betwern my pedals an pull it alternate left and right more and less .I handle the wheel at the half way of the struts. Mostly it my case..;-)
  15. Bouncy Tires

    I wuold also check the inner bearings//bushing of the upper control arm/ Shock my case they was worn out and resulting in the same problem where i bought the car 2004.. M2C