1941 Transmission HELP

[1941]

After a long winter storage I "un-mothballed" my '41 Continental

only to find it will not drive in low gear. It literally "pounds" out

of first gear upon releasing the clutch.

I drove this car over 900 miles to the Gilmore meet last June with no problems.

I am hoping it is a linkage problem rather than missing teeth!

My question are these:

I would like to remove the transmission cover (a side loader) to inspect

the gears and will have to put it on a lift to do so.

What steps do I take to remove this cover?

This car has always had a "shake " when first shifting into first or

or reverse. - Bad transmission mount??

This car has a columbia rear axle.

ANY HELP APPRECIATED

[Rolf]

A few tests could be made before getting in to a pretty big job of pulling the cover with the trans in the car, you have to remove the clutch linkage as it swivels in the cover, but if you can raise the car, take the rear shift rod loose, and see if you can manually move the shift lever further, both ways, if the rod is too short it may be keeping the low/reverse gear from engaging fully with the cluster gear, and with the resulting wear, "pops" out of gear, solution is to adjust the rod so that full travel is reached when you put it in low gear, the rods are adjustable, if that doesn't work, and you are getting full travel on the shift lever, I fear it is trans removal time, and some gears will have to be replaced, the "shake" could be a bad rear motor mount, that is letting the engine/trans rotate when you put it in gear, check it by having a helper in the car when you lift it, have the helper start the engine, push in the clutch, and put it in low, meanwhile you are watching hawk like from below for any twisting or problems in the clutch linkage, these unusual problems are alway interesting and good to know, so keep us informed on what you find, and that big powerful 12 and the low rear end gears will launch your Connie in 2nd almost as good as low, but reverse is a problem-

[1941]

Thanks, Rolf!!

I confess I know NOTHING when it comes to the gearcase.

A year ago, after LAST winter's storage, I noticed a LOT

of oil on the ground under the car. I thought it was engine oil.

but then after removing the pan over the transmission

(what a job!) I found it was the tranmission grease leaking out of the

rear (seal?) transmission mount. I did fill the case for the big trip.

Also, REVERSE currently does work fine.

[Rolf]

Another tough one with the car intact, but that sounds like the mount is loose on the back of the transmission, and I don't think you can get to the bolts with the driveshaft and torque tube in place, you would get a little access with the 2 piece coupler off, but it would be really tight, and the gasket is probally washed out too, so tightening the bolts alone might not seal it up again. The reverse working normally is a bad sign, if the low/reverse sliding gear is moving back and forth all the way it is supposed too, and the "popping" out of low persists, your cluster gear probally has a broken low gear, and it is the most expensive gear in the transmission, I know, because when I street raced my '40 Z in the '50's, I blew a lot of those 26 tooth cluster gears, that got me buying "parts cars", available then for less than the price of a used transmission alone, them was the days, as Archie Bunker used to say-

[1941]

I have an appointment next week to use a hydraulic auto lift.

I will check the linkage, but fear I am missing some teeth.

ONE LAST QUESTION:

I think it will take some time (and lots of $$) to find

a good gear cluster. We're now into the prime driving season

here (3-4 months long). Can I still drive the car SAFELY by just

avoiding first gear? It does easily roll in second. I will try to flush

the gearcase in case there are any fragments.

I would like to take the car on two driving tours.

?????????????????????????????????

[Rolf]

You can run without a low gear with impunity, just make sure when you start, the Columbia is in the non-OD mode, new foreign cluster gears, Chinese I think are being sold by Job-Lot Automotive in Queens NY, they are expensive and not of the greatest quality, but will work fine if you handle it gingerly, but that leak out the back must make a God-awful mess everywhere you park, and if you run it dry, you may ruin some other expensive parts, good luck, Rolf

[imported_Phil Knapp]

In the 1950's and early 1960's I was driving 1939 and 1947 Ford convertibles. These cars used the same basic transmissions as Lincolns. I managed to break the low/reverse slider gear on a regular basis and never had any trouble driving in second and third. It was sometimes a problem finding a spot to park that I didn't have to back out of! I even drove (round trip) from Rochester, NY to Milwaukee, WS using only second and third gears (plus the Columbia overdrive). I wasn't even smart enough to remove the broken teeth. I worried about them, but they never caused any problem.

Since things ar a lot more expensive now, I would recommend that you inspect the innards of the transmission and remove whatever loose or broken metal parts you can find. I would then refill the transmission with 140 weight gear oil and have a fun, but careful, driving season!

PS. Send or post some photos of your driving tours. I've seen pictures of your gorgeous blue '41 Continental at the Gilmore museum.

[no more]

I have a hard time believing it broke while resting....loss of fluid is easily found, clean it then drive

and look...the only opening are in the bell, ft seal..rear seal..(which mustbe bad due to soft broken mount) and side cover..in the car u can pull side cover and look inside..but before u do all that..and yes replace the mount..

please check / replace the shifter linkage bushings which wear out and prevent car from locking "in" to gear..simplistic answer yes..but worth a sunday look..i bet u see no rubber or sloppy from that gil trip...

i had the grey 40 conv parked at kz.. most of u never saw it..mr cole hasnt room for pics...

ps.. mr browne on robinhood lane has "nos" cluster!! i inquired..as i have a chipped tooth..i replace ider and low..

stock ford items..

jb

oHIo

[imported_Phil Knapp]

Don't feel bad, Jeff. I've known Dave Cole for over 40 years and he's never printed a picture of any of my cars.

At least your gray 1940 Zephyr got coverage at the Gilmore Museum meet at:

http://community.webshots.com/album/554143472NkqHXU

and:

http://community.webshots.com/album/554535045VcCLcv

I think your radials would work even better on 1941 Lincoln 16x5 inch wheels.

[okdave]

i am having a similar problem see my recent post. have you found out anything about your tranny. i found shelled gear in my transmission oil upon draining. david

[1941]

Sorry I haven't responded until now. ANOTHER old car project has kept me busy.

I was able to inspect my '41 Connie on a lift. Quite the DISASTER!

The (supposedly) reputable restoration firm that redid this car

back in the late 90's used silicone to rebuild the two front engine mounts as well as the rear

transmission mount. The result is this:

The front right engine mount has totally separated (what's left of the rubber and solicone) from the metal. The engine under load now cocks to the left.

The transmission mount is totally "delaminated" due to failure of the

silicone "rebuild". This has caused the transmission to tilt such that

first gear cannot be fully engaged as the shift linkage hits the framework.

Needless to say, I will NOT be driving this car this summer.

I have located a man in Detroit that rebuilds these three mounts -

sold exchange only - about $200 each.

As for the gearcase, I will wait until fall to pull EVERTHING and then

tackle that problem.

This car has been driven very little since 5 years of storage from 2001-2006.

I do have all the service records from the previous owner and have found that

this same "restoration" shop put 90 weight oil in the tranny case,

which certainly didn't help the leakage problem.

LOTS of work (and $$$) ahead.

[okdave]

what kind of fluid should go into a non overdrive transmission. dd

[peecher]

The owner's manual calls for 90 weight gear oil but the modern 85W should work fine.