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Brake system flush


Jhellman

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There have been a number of posts on this and there is information on the faq. Some time back I posted a link to step-by-step instructions for building a pressure bleeder from a garden sprayer for under $20. Since annual flushes are probably the order of the Teves day, the pressure bleeder is the way to go. BTW, opening the bleeder screw will drain the caliper. The more important matter is to evacuate the reservior before bleeding so the worst stuff is not forced through the master cylinder.

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Guest wally888

Barney suggests removing the hose (bottom most) on the reservoir 1st., to get the junk settled there out of the system. ( There is a non replacable filter there)<BR> From that point on you have several options, press. bleeder, vac bleeder (someone might advise further about those options). I used the system pump to run about a quart from the reservoir through the rear bleeders, till fluid ran clear.<BR> Once you have cleaned out the reservoir, fill, pressurize, have someone hold pedal down a little while you open and close rear bleeders (keep reservoir full)<BR> You can then bleed the fronts manually as per Manual.<BR> Think these instructions are in the "Brake" at reatta.net.

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Also I'd recommend buying two bottles of the better DOT3 fluid. You may not use both completely, but it's better to run more fluid through the system than to leave any junk in there. Also don't use fluid that has been compromised already with moisture.<P>I had a hard time getting that braided hose off the fitting on the bottom of the reservoir. There is not much room to work in there. I recommend taking the cowl brace rod off or moving it to get enough room to put a container and newspaper to catch ther fluid that is going to come out of the reservoir fitting. <P>I used a gallon milk jug under the reservoir, cut with the handle part still attached but with the jug cut roughly in half. Be careful as this will fill up when you flush the reservoir, and a cut-up milk jug is very flimsy when filled with slimy brake fluid!

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Might add that on careful study of the diagrams, I would flush the rear circuit prior to the fronts. <P>The rationale is that the control valve dumps directly into the rear circuit. Fluid from there then fills the front circuits. By flushing the rear first you reduce the possibility of contaminants getting into the front circuits or main valve.

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In reply to cpu's post....<BR>because of the problems removing the hose from the bottom of the reservoir, the easier way is to go to the pump end of the hose.<BR>pull the metal clip, wiggle the 90degree plastic fitting to break it loose, and pull it out of the pump housing.<BR>I use a piece of vinyl tubing and plug the 90degree fitting into the tubing and drain it under the car to a oil change pan.<P>With it still disconnected, pour into the reservoir at least a cup of new brake fluid to flush out the old.<P>When that drains. plug the 90degree fitting back into the pump housing, add one or two cups of fresh fluid to the resevoir. Turn on the key to pump fresh fluid into the pump, and accumulator. <P>Note..this will push old fluid that was in the pump out into the resevoir. So pull the 90degree fitting and let it drain. pump the brake pedal to purge the accumulator and that will push more comtaminated fluid back into the resevouir. When it all drains,<BR>it would not hurt to do the above steps again to remove additional contaminated fluid from the pump.<P>When you are satisfied with the color/condition of the fluid being drained from the reservoir, plug in the 90 degree fitting, add new fluid, turn on the ignition, and proceed to bleed the master cylinder/brakes.

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Am getting ready to flush but one question about pulling the return hose: plastic fittings were mentioned. What is the likelyhood that the fitting will break off when the hose is removed and is there any salvation ? Which one is better to chance ?<P>Barney - you are in a hot climate, what is your experience ? (am not sure about these newer cars but some of the plastics GM used in the '70s would disintegrate if you looked at it).

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I just did mine last Saturday and, yes, the plastic elbow fitting did break. I made a new one in brass, thinking that I would not be able to purchase it as a separate item. If the fitting has been regularly removed it may slide out easily with finger pressure but if it has not, and it requires a tool to remove it, there is a chance that it will break. I should add that I thought that I was being careful, so proceed gently.<P>Alan.

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