Air tool question/s

[Roadster90]

Hate to say this, but I am at a point in my life where I don't think I am going to be working on automobiles a great deal longer, however I am missing a few tools that I have always wanted and just have simply subsisted without. Kind of a toss up anymore as some tools would now actually help me with my physical condition.

I haven't really needed a 1/2" impact before because I didn't care about breaking nuts loose, and did care about having to bring out and running an air line every time I used one. Well my back condition may now benefit from having one. The same for the little 3/8" air wrench. The reason for all of this dialog is if I did get them (both 1/2 and 3/8"), I really would not use them a great deal and don't really care to buy expensive ones.

Can some one suggest a brand/s or vendor/s that they have had experience with and have served them well please?

I have always wondered about the quality of a lot of the "stuff" that Harbor Freight sells. It may not be the best quality of course, but I would not be production line type of user. I have seen or heard of 1/2" impacts costing from 19.95 to 39.95 there v. 99.00 to 129.95 Craftsman and other better makes. Opinions please and thanks ?

[JWC]

If budget allows do buy a higher quality tools. I do have a couple of air tools from Harbor Freight that serve me well, just remember before each use, add a few drops of oil used in the air tools, and this goes with out saying BUT I will say it any ways, you do get what you paid for, and you will be paying for the name also.

[Vincent Vega]

Ingersoll-Rand makes some pretty decent tools. I'll always pay for quality tools. H-F tools are not worth it my opinion.

[Shelby]

You should get tools in the mid price range. A lot of them are exact copies of Ingresoll Rand and Chicago Pneumatic.

The cheap ones are real trash.

[Guest DTerry]

I probably use my 3/8" air wrench or my 1/2" impact wrench once or twice a year. I bought the cheapest I could find a bunch of years ago and at that rate of use they should last forever.

[2seater]

The biggest difference I have found is the higher quality tools generally have more power, particularly in the impacts and such. There is a very large difference between a 1/2" impact with 200 odd ft/lbs of torque vs one with 400 ft/lbs. It isn't as noticeable in die grinders and other such tools, but it is there and the higher quality tools seem to be easier to "feather". One other thing to looks at is air usage. There can be a wide variation in the air flow requirements between tools, not terribly important if you have a large compressor. I do have a varied selection of air tools, and a few are from Harbor Freight, and they have been reliable.

[padgett]

The first question needs to be "what is your air supply ?" If 90 psi at 6 SCFM then you have a lot of options. If you don't have one yet that you need to consider either electric tools or buying a package.

[Roadster90]

Great thinking Padgett...I was wondering if my compressor would run a 1/2" OK or not....I am fairly sure it would, but at any rate, please comment on below:

I replaced my 1980's 220 volt 2 hp <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> Sears compressor in 2002 with a (by the way, this little 2 hp comp would run an air file, DA sander, and a Binks Model 18 gun >> squirt a whole large size car no problem...only had to let it run and catch up now and then):

5.5 hp 120 v. single phase 25 gallon tank Craftsman permanently lubricated compressor...the type Sears has sold 12 billion of <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.

displacement cfm 11.9

The specs read SCFM @ 40 psig 8.6

SCFM @ 90 psig 6.4

cut in pressure 100

cut out pressure 130

Comments please?

[padgett]

What the large print giveth....

My wife surprised me with a Sears compressor one Christmas, for years I have been using a belt-driven 3/4 hp single cyl compressor on a 30 gallon tank that sits under the workbench. Typically I could run a grinder for about 30 seconds before it needed to catch up. It pulls about 10-12 amps of 120.

The new one is a red upright marked 6 hp (starting) and 2 hp (running). It sounds like a berserk bumble bee and the most you can put on a 15 amp 120 line. It has the same ratings as yours so the marketeers must have been at work.

It handles about anything I can through at it but took back some cheap air tools (one was a grinder) and replaced with not-so-cheap ones that used less air.

Since I use only occasionally, and just one tool at a time it does just fine.

[Roadster90]

thanks to all for your comments, and Padgett for the info on the compressor <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

[alexhouston]

My experience is that to break loose many lug nuts, etc I have to get out the breakover and cheater bar all too often. Seldom do I ever use the impacts when working on anything other than wheels, and then the 4-way is much easier. I would recommend a 3/8 air ratchet for most auto work. Mainly due to small size which will fit most places where an impact won't. I also find my ratchet is much safer to use to reassemble motors, etc due to not so easy to over-torque.

As far as good tools at best prices, I buy only the best brands. Harbor Freight tools have never lasted for me, and most frustrating is that you cannot get parts anywhere. I find pawn shops to be a really good place to buy tools. Usually I bargain for price. I never pay their posted price. I typically get tools at 1/3 the new price, cheaper than the Harbor Freight cost for junk.

[padgett]

I often use an electric to R&R lug nuts (after using a cheater to loosen and a torque wrench to tighten). Changing tires is one of the most tiring things I know (particularly when over 90) and every little bit helps.

The constant on and off I went trough troubleshooting the ABS light was particularly bad.

Incidentally after a few "we are forwarding your question to the proper people" I have heard nada from Continental-Teves about the mixup in error codes.

[Roadster90]

I ran into the same code issue about a year and a half ago...Caused me to initially replace the wrong front wheel sensor at first, but both of them had frayed wires and needed it anyway so I just discounted the adventure as me not knowing left from right or visa versa <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />.