Need advise on which type gas tank sealer to buy/ sending unit

[ajordanbuick51]

Hi,

So I removed the 51 Buick?s gas tank and found that the gas tank and sending unit was full of rust. I?ve been researching on-line to see what my options are. I went to this link http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Fuel/tank.htm I?ve found 5 different options to clean the tank

1 is www.eastwoodco.com 3 step gas tank (cleaner, etch sealer) sealer for 44.95

2 is http://www.hirschauto.com/ gas tank seal & Etch for $35.95

3 is http://www.por15.com/PRODUCTS/COMPLETEKITS/FUELTANKREPAIRKIT/tabid/106/Default.aspx Gas tank 3 step seal process for $62 (also saw this on ebay)

4 is the http://www.gastankrenu.com/ cost $arm and leg $100-499

5 is find a radiator shop and boil out the tank and have them seal it with one of the above first 3.

Wondering if anyone has used these before and what works the best. I would like to do the Renu process however, there are no vender?s in GA and I would have to ship it to one of them via Freight. What is you guys experience with his?

Sending unit I found it in 2 locations one is www.oldbuickparts.com for $69.50 and www.bobsautomobilia.com for $75 I think I?m just going to eat the price on this one. Does any one know who else sells these?

[NTX5467]

Just as with a rusty radiator or heater core, when you get the rust out of the tank you could ALSO well have "perforations" in the base metal that will have to be dealt with in some way or another. Therefore, after the cleanout and "look-see", you might end up needing a new tank anyway.

In the "sealer" realm of things, there might be some that are going to clean as best they can and then seal over what's left. They might not admit that, but it could be the way things happen if it's a really rusty situation. For example, as I recall, POR-15's claim to fame (at least on rust you can see on cast parts and such) is to remove what can be removed and then "encapsulate" what might be left, taking away its oxygen source, and then let you paint over the resulting coating--one way to stop the rust, but I'm not sure if their fuel tank process items will do similar with the fuel tank innards.

So, you might need to carefully read through the various products' websites and see how each product works and how well it appears to work AND if it will do what needs to be done with YOUR project. I do feel like that a first step would be to take it to a radiator shop that does fuel tanks and let them get it cleaned out best they can, checking for perforations when finished, and then do the seal/coat process. As I mentioned, it could be that you'll end up looking for a new tank so you might also investigate that option too. I'm not sure if you might also need to apply the cold galvanize coating (inside and outside) before the interior sealing operation, so that would also be something to investigate. Key thing is that what you get done will stand the test of time many years down the road--in a trouble-free and reliable manner (why it might be best to replace the tank and use the old one for a backup or "extra parts" when the vehicle might be sold).

In the price of the sending unit, don't forget to include the shipping costs, as it appears that both vendors mentioned are in the same ballpark with their pricing. Make sure that any sending unit will also include any seals/gaskets to attach it to the tank itself and has the correct electrical plug-in for your wiring harness. Plus, make sure that you have a new fuel tank sending unit strainer in the mix too, whether as part of the sending unit kit or purchased separately.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

[Mark Shaw]

I used the Hirsch procuct on my 29 Buick tank almost 20 years ago and have had no problems. I cleaned my tank with one can of Drano in 1 1/2 gallons of hot water with about a quart of crushed pea gravel to scrape the internal surfaces. This is how I did it:

Removed the sending unit and sealed all un-capped openings. Mixed the Drano in the hot water, poured it into the tank, added gravel put the cap on and did the twist on front lawn vigorously shaking the tank in all directions for about 20 minutes. Dumped all contents, rinsed twice, unsealed the sender opening and blow dried with a hair dryer & just left it in the sun for a couple of hours. Then I used the sealer per the directions.

You can take it to a radiator shop to do the same thing, but it costs a lot more & it isn't near as much fun.

Mark Shaw

[Guest imported_MrEarl]

You may want to post questions such as these in the Postwar Technical Forum for better response. Here is a previous thread related to your question.

Cleaning and sealing a gas tank

[ajordanbuick51]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You may want to post questions such as these in the Postwar Technical Forum for better response. Here is a previous thread related to your question.

Cleaning and sealing a gas tank </div></div>

Thanks...wow a chain in the tank and shake around...humm

[ajordanbuick51]

I've had trouble finding a replacment tank..used, new or remanf. or something that I could make work. If anyone one knows a good place that would help too.

[imported_buick5563]

Alex,

You are going to have to rinse it out after it comes back from the radiator shop anyway. The place that boiled mine out put some solution ( I think trans fluid mixed with something) to prevent further rust and when I sealed the tank with (shoot, I forget which brand) sealer it pealed off in sheets. I then sent off the tank to get the renu system installed (sprayed). It works like new, but they didn't bang out the dents and it doesn't look like it came from the factory this way. So, after spending $ on boiling, $ on the sealer, $ on shipping, $ on the renu system, $ on the return shipping, I probably have well over $600 in my gas tank. YAY. I would find the best one you can buy and not seal it with anything. Just my two cents.

Mike

[FireballV8]

I agree with Mike, I just cleaned my 55 Century tank out and it looked good, so I sandblasted the outside in order to paint it and a bunch of tiny pin holes appeared, now this was a good tank in a running and driving car. So off to a few shops and no one wanted to mess with it, so off to Gas Tank Renu it went, I should get it back this week. They quoted me about $300.

The renu system works well, I had a 57 Roadmaster that needed a gas tank, the tank in the car was completely rotted on top. I couldn't find one, so I went to Gas Tank Renu and they fixed it and it worked great.