Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 (edited) 1911 Buick model 14 as it appeared in June of 2000.Thanks,Joe Edited January 31, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek trying to edit title per request (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55PackardGuy Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 That's a sweet car. Are you going to post some photos of the restoration process? It won't be too long and you'll have a hundred year old car. Not many can say that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 (edited) Thanks,Joe Edited January 31, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ewing Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Joe, That is one beautiful Buick. I'd love to see more pictures. What a blast that will be to drive about town in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JO BO Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 You lucky,lucky,lucky...dawg. So many beautiful old Buicks showing up lately. JO BO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 22, 2006 Share Posted April 22, 2006 (edited) Currently turning the axle spindles to accept Timken bearings; thespindles were bent about .070 off the axle centerline and had tobe straightened before turning..Thanks,Joe Edited February 9, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted June 10, 2006 Share Posted June 10, 2006 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted June 25, 2006 Share Posted June 25, 2006 (edited) Shown are the old ball style wheel bearings on the left wheel;the wheel to the right has been sleeved front and back for taperedbearings with new seals on inboard bearing side. I'm machiningsleeves from pre-heat treated steel with an .001 interferencefit..Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 (edited) next project was checking the runout of the brake drums; one wheelgave me trouble as its center hub had been welded up and the locatingdiameter for the brake drum wasn't running concentric with the bearings.I ended up boring the locating hole of the drum and sleeving it.Joe Edited January 31, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 22, 2007 Share Posted April 22, 2007 (edited) Working on the transmission; cutting new gear teeth on a reworkeddouble gear shaft. 2 of the original gears were pretty chewed up... Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 29, 2007 Share Posted April 29, 2007 (edited) This gear was a little trickier; it has a 17 tooth internal gear which acts as aspline to lock up with the driven side of the clutch for high gear. I first roughedout the teeth by drilling and milling the tooth cavities before using a hand groundtool with the tooth profile to broach the finish shape of the sides & outer edge.It took a couple of additional passes around before the gear fit freely into theclutch gear on all the teeth...Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 Joe, my hat is off to you. I would only dream about doing work like this. Please, what training is involved to learn to do work like trhat? Tool and die maker?JD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 30, 2007 Share Posted April 30, 2007 (edited) Hi John,No, just worked in a lot of different general machining job shops. Whatyou don't learn from trial and error is all in Machinery's Handbook..Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 (edited) Everything fits even with the two gears "growing" slightly from theflame hardening of their teeth. Also new is a screw in bearing carrierfor the pinion gear (bottom). I ended up using a Timken tapered bearingwith a needle thrust bearing behind it to replace the obsolete ballbearing on the pinion gear.Now on to the clutch and torque tube side of the tranny....Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted May 26, 2007 Share Posted May 26, 2007 (edited) Model 14 clutches are prone to "sticking" when engaged- so much that laterversions (including mine) have a spring loaded plunger which contacts theside of the clutch unit to stop rotation.So on the advise of another model 14 owner, I bought a "jackrabbit" clutchdisk set sold by a model T supplier. The disks are covered with a frictionmaterial (on right) versus the old bronze disks to the left.The old disk drum had to be turned down by about .270" and the slotsmilled back in to accomodate the smaller model T disks; also the O.D. ofthe new disks had to be reduced by an eigth of an inch to clear the boltsthat hold the assembly together....Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted June 13, 2007 Share Posted June 13, 2007 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted September 4, 2007 Share Posted September 4, 2007 (edited) I finally put some paint on the assembled transaxle... Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 19, 2008 Share Posted April 19, 2008 (edited) [ Rebuilt 1" Schebler carburetor at right (same as used by Buick model 10).Thanks, Joe Edited February 3, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 (edited) Painted frame; I built a support frame around it to rotate thepiece while sanding and painting.Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toeout Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Hello Joe,I am a new member to the discussion forum, based near Dublin, Southern Ireland, I have the task of rebuilding a 1908 Buick (we think?)there will be many questions that I could do with answers to and judging by your experience you probably can supply the info?Looking at what you have already done the engineering quality looks fantastic, I only hope I can come near it.Most of the car is there but the outer clutch to gearbox drive unit and the flywheel square drive is missing and I have no idea what they look like to show the seller of the car what I am after.Do you have any images of these items please?RegardsIan Anderson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 (edited) Hi Ian,Shown is a Spicer universal joint I replicated a few years back(on right). I was fortunate that the original on left was included with the car. The square socket on the end of the yokeoften gets chewed out.Thanks,Joe Edited February 2, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toeout Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 Hi Joe,Brilliant information,very many thanks for that, I now realise that the square drive that fits the coupling and the input shaft aligned by a woodfuff key are missing, any pics of that item?Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 Hello Ian,No photos of it on hand, but the original drive end is around 4-3/4" long. It is made from 1-3/8" diameter steel with a 1-1/8" square milled back about 4 inches. The center hole is 7/8" inside diameter with a 3/16" (I believe) drive key in line with a corner square. Make the lengths longer; they can always be cut back if need be....Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toeout Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 Hi Joe,Many thanks for the info, I will get a drawing done and sent the the machine shop.Would you be able to tell me if you know of anyone who has a clutch cover + plates or complete assembly for sale?As this part is missing I would like to modify it as per your clutch.RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 Hi Ian,None that I am aware of; I'll keep my eyes open..Thanks,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 I was able to restore the diameters of the linkage balls ofboth the radius rod arm (above) and the pittman arm (below)minus .020". With a short bar of steel (at left)and a tubeof valve grinding compound, I hand lapped the link balls to aneven size (whithin .0015" on the diameter).The bar has a 15/16" drilled hole in the end with tapered boreout to the largest diameter of the link ball.It takes a while; about .002 to .003" per hour by hand. It isfaster with the tool in the lathe, but leaves scratches in thesteel...Thanks,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toeout Posted August 26, 2008 Share Posted August 26, 2008 Hi Joe,Would you have any info on the clutch cover for a 14B, we have given up hope of getting the parts from the previous owner.Would you have a drawing?Sorry to ask.RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
serb Posted September 30, 2008 Share Posted September 30, 2008 I am bringing this back to the top just because I think it is a fantastic read. I find it amazing to read Joe's blow by blow description of what he is doing. We should all have that type of patience and knowledge.You go, Joe.Stevo 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted October 1, 2008 Share Posted October 1, 2008 Thanks Stevo,Just trying to find a web hosting site on which my uploadedphotos don't look like they have 1/8" inch of grease smearedover them....Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted October 2, 2008 Share Posted October 2, 2008 (edited) Out of frustration with trying to seal a cork carburetorfloat, I machined a die to hydroform two halves of a floatfrom .005" thick brass shim stock.I found that I needed to limit the travel of the brass whithinthe die cavity between drawing and annealing of the blank;shown to each side are inserts made from 5 minute epoxy whichfit whithin the steel die cavity.The upper half of the float has a threaded brass lug (4-40 tapwith a blind hole) for attachment to the float arm.I tried out the float in dad's model 10 Buick- so far noleaks!...Thanks,Joe Edited February 3, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek edit title per request (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted October 4, 2008 Share Posted October 4, 2008 (edited) Arrangement for checking fuel level in float bowl;It turns out the brass float is too bouyant- a differentfloat arm will have to be fabricated to raise the fuel levelat least 3/8" of an inch to avoid starving out on hills...Thanks,Joe Edited February 3, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek edit title per request (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 (edited) The center five teeth of the bronze segment gear on thesteering box had quite a bit of wear; I was able to silversolder the top half of the worn teeth. I then re-faced thegear in the lathe and cut all the teeth .070" of an inchdeeper. I used the good profile teeth at each end for grindinga fly cutting tool as well as figuring out tooth spacing..Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek edit title per request (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) [ It fits!I was tickled pink today that I was able to cold bend mybrass steering wheel spider in the arbor press (between woodblocks); still a little scary though...Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_Joe Kieliszek Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 (edited) [ Making neoprene spring snubbers for the leaf springs. I wasable to "machine" a square pocket in the rubber using a flexible shaft Dremel grinder mounted to the Bridgeportspindle. The small center hole in the neoprene material was opened up with a 1 3/8" hole saw in the lathe (drilling half way from each end). The rubber cuts off easily in the bandsawand the ends are squared up on a bench mounted belt sander...Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe Kieliszek Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 (edited) Pressure testing for leaks at 4 p.s.i.; the only ones found were around the filler cap neckwhich were easily soldered. I made a cap out of delrin plastic with an o-ring at the baseof the threads and tapped hole for the guage.Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe Kieliszek Posted July 11, 2009 Share Posted July 11, 2009 (edited) Tires mounted on painted wheels- they slid on easily with handsoap aboutthe bead. Many thanks to Greg Fish in obtaining a positive I.D. on the darkgreen used on the body, fenders & wheels of his late father's model 14 Buick.Thanks,Joe Edited February 4, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe Kieliszek Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 (edited) Hello,Making progress on assembly work; I set the motor in this week (minus theflywheel). I can now center up the driveshaft/transaxle to the flywheelmounting flange via the u-joint (not pictured).I had a local boat top and tarp maker sew up a set of tire bags with velcrostraps; I'll be able to move the chassis around without scruffing upthe grey tires..Thanks,Joe Edited February 5, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe Kieliszek Posted November 22, 2009 Share Posted November 22, 2009 (edited) I've been sidetracked with a tedius but interesting project -replicating theearly style of drive chain used on the Model 14. One of the chains on my carwas old enough that it still had individual cotter pins on each of the connectingpins between links (on one side of the chain only). The other end of the pinshas a low round head.So I bought 2 ten foot lengths of number 60 drive chain; modern chain isdimensionally identical to the old stuff. Using a chain breaker, I took apart150 inches worth of connecting and roller links. Using carbide end mills, theholes in these were drilled out to slightly under 1/4" (they were 6 mm).I bought 200 hardened 1/4 inch clevis pins from Mc Master-Carr. These wereeach drilled with a 1/16 carbide straight flute bit at the cotter pin location.The clevis pin heads were then rounded off in the lathe (a lot of sharpeningof the carbide tool bits). The pins were sanded to length and champhered.Then just add 200 cotter pins and you are ready to assemble... Edited February 1, 2016 by Joe Kieliszek (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 Wow. You are much more patient than I am to be able to pull that chain work off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Joe Kieliszek Posted November 29, 2009 Share Posted November 29, 2009 Hi Derek,Thanks; now I'm hoping that the chains will have the proper tension aroundthe sprockets. I'd hate to readjust the freshly painted drag link rods betweenthe drive and trail axles...They looked as if their settings have never been tampered with.Thanks,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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