Insights for looking at 62 Skylark V8 that sat for 15 years.

[rechless1]

In a few days I will be looking at a car that has been sitting for 15 years. The owner is 85 years old so I presume he did not prepare the car for storage. Please provide me with things I can do to see if it runs without risking damage to the car and me. thanks. (62 Skylark V8 conv in California central valley, covered garage - not sure if walled.)

[Guest BJM]

The percentages are against it running from the start. Attempts to get it to start would likely damage the motor. For an initial meeting on the car, I would not attempt to start. If it doesn't start, then this may cause embarassment to the seller-make them uncomfortable.

I think it would be better to ask when he stopped driving it, did he drain any fluids. If not then check the conditiono f the fluids and level. Look for obvious signs of leakage, and where. Remember, if there was any gas in the tank 15 years ago, it's now shellac.

I would try to turn the motor over by using teh proper socket and bar. If it turns over, then there is hope that you could change out fluids and maybe get a start.

Other things: Wheels may be locked up.

[Guest brh]

I think the direction you should head is assume the worse case. To properly turn that engine over you must get oil in those cylinders, and even then the rings may be stuck, the water pump frozen etc. See if the engine is in good condition (holds water, and oil) check the frame for rust out, possibly try shifting the trans and then assume you will need to flat bed it to its new home and rebuild the engine and trans. Now if after careful checking the engine will turn and fire and the trans is fine then you are covered. 15 years is a lot of time.

[critterpainter]

I have to agree with the other 3 replys. Do not try to start it! that usually causes more work! Try to turn the engine over by hand. You don't have to spin it..just make sure the engine will turn at all. Often the water pump or some other accessory will sieze and not allow the engine to move. check the oi. If it is full but not overfull that is good. Ignore the color of the oil as you will want to pull the oil pan anyway before starting the engine.

Also see if the brakes are frozen. You can sink a lot of money into a brake system on some of the early hydrolic brakes.

Just my 2¢ worth

Bill

[Ron Green]

I would not try and start it as you may do more damage then good as everyone else said. Rust and upholstery condition you should be able to see any major issues.

I would assume (and you would probably be right) that all the mechanicals would need a thorough examination. This may be hard to do without taking a lot apart of which most owners frown upon before the sale. More then likely most mechanicals if not all will need some kind of attention if not completely rebuilt. I would assume worst case and consider that in my offer. In today's world it is much cheaper to buy something done then do a 2 or 3 year partial or full restoration.

Weigh out what the vehicle is worth and what amount of money might be needed to get it going. If you have the time and do the majority of the work yourself verses having to hire various shops will have a huge impact on costs.

Disregard all of the above if it is a project that really interests you, or it is a bargain that you can't pass up, or you need a few years of shop time.

[JohnD1956]

What is the year and model, that is assuming of course it is a Buick.

Also what was the history of use? And where has it sat, outside or inside? In humid conditions or damp? These are some basic considerations which may lead to the potential pronblems others have already suggested.

Keep in mind too the composition of the engine. If this is a 62 skylark with the aluminum engine, you may be looking at more trouble with the cooling system.

Generally I look at the color and smell of the trans fluid. If it is there at all, and burnt you know you'll need a transmission. You'll also need a radiator sooner than later.

But you need to look inside the radiator for the presence of motor oil or trans fluid on top of the coolant. If the coolant looks black, dip a white paper napkin in briefly and pull it out. black? it's engine oil and possibly a cracked block or blown head gasket. Red? its most likely trans fluid, definite radiator replacement in order.

Also look at the oil on the dipstick for presence of water or coolant. Same problems as above.

The thing to remember is this. There are many cars which have sat for years and don't have any problems. So keep an open mind. Look for rodent droppings inside and under the hood. Look for worn, cracked or chewed insulation on the wires.

Look for spilled battery acid eating the battery tray and frame.

Figure on brake shoes and lines including flex hoses, Figure on a complete exhaust system. Figure on a case of PB Blaster for all those rusted parts.

And figure on a hell of a lot of fun when you have it running and moving down the street.

JD

[Gene Brink]

Pretty lucky it has been sitting in California since you will not have had too much rain/moisture in the air (even given this years abundance) but the all aluminum engine sitting that long without a coolant change is troublesome. As John indicated check the radiator and cooling system closely. Look for corrosion abount hoses, fitting and thermostat housing - if present I'll bet you will have leaks when you fill it up. Worst case would be a head gasket that will leak. I'd guess brakes, cooling system, oil & filter change (along with pan dropped and cleaned out), new battery and you will be ready to think about starting. Would not be surprised if you don't have to pull the starter motor (dress brushes etc) as well. Doubt the engine will be frozen and if you proceed carefully you should have it running soon.

Good luck

[Buicksplus]

I've started several engines that have sat for 25 years or more. I usually follow the same procedure, assuming the engine is free:

Disconnect and plug the fuel line from the tank.

Drain the oil and replace it with fresh oil

Remove the plugs and squirt some motor oil into the cylinders.

Turn the engine over by hand a few revolutions.

Connect a battery to the starter and crank it with the plugs still removed.

Confirm there is oil pressure during cranking with either the dash gauge or a mechanics unit tied into the oil gallery.

If all this looks good, top up the radiator, install new ignition parts (points, rotor, condenser). Confirm that the points actually produce a decent spark.

Remove, clean and reinstall the carburetor. Jury rig a fuel supply with a small electric pump, some rubber fuel line, and a can of clean, new gasoline. Do not attempt to run the engine off the fuel in the tank.

Install the plugs, fill up the carburetor. With luck, it will start and run rough. If there are no awful noises and the oil pressure is ok, let it keep running. Stuck rings, valves can free themselves and eventually improve the compression and smoothness. After you have run the engine for a while, stop it and check the compression. I suggest you drain the water immediately after this hot run and replace it with fresh coolant -- assuming the water pump and hoses are not leaking.

I usually find one or two bad cylinders and other problems (exhaust smoke, water leaks, bad accessories such as generators, power steering pumps, etc.). You get to decide how to fix these items one at a time. I usually end up rebuilding the engine, though it is always fun to see an engine come out of rest and actually work!

[Ron Green]

Excellent advice but may be hard to do before deciding whether to purchase it or not as some owners might frown on doing all this prior to buying.

[Bluesky62]

Well, I'm curious - after all of this good advice, did you buy the car? How is it turning out so far? Dave

[rechless1]

I have not seen it yet. The guy was sick this week. Hopefully, early next week. I'll certainly let everybody know the outcome.

[Guest COMPACTBC]

Most all of the previous advise re the engine is very good. One thing not mentioned is how the get the oil pressure up before you try to start the engine. Remove both valve covers and take out the distributor. You can then stick a big long slot-head screw driver shank, (try to match the size and shape of the end of the shaft on the distributor) on the end of your electric drill and run it until you see oil coming out of the rocker arm area of the engine. This will not only prime the oil pump (which can be a problem on this engine) but it will also put oil in all of the oil passages of the engine.