Repainting of HPOF Car--Puzzled (Again)

[Amphicar BUYER]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">John, I was the one that that made the comment about the tires. The point I was trying to get across an apparently failed is if you have a car that is basically untouched and the ONLY major thing done was it got new paint because the old paint was shot, it that really a good reason to totally not accept that car as an HPOF? What about all the good original information obtainable from the interior, engine compartment, and chassis. To not accept a car based on the sole fact of new paint is like taking your hunting dog and shooting it because there is a flea on it!! You'd be throwing out a perfectly good resource for other areas just because of the way it looks from 20 feet! </div></div>

I see your point here but percentage-wise new paint is a significant change VS factory dress. When a car gets painted typically the paintwork is far superior to the factory. The Amphicar for example has definate spot welds that can be seen along the lower edge. When these cars get painted, those factory welds get buried in the skim coat and are lost, every time. It is a tell that all but certifies the paint as original. The alum trim also had a special finish called "Bright anodizing" which is expensive and hard to find anyplace to do it. I know of 1 in the USA. So the trim gets polished or chromed (Bad idea). Looks great, not correct or original. These examples are generally applicable to to most cars I would say.

I think that there should be another class called "Survivor." HPOF would serve as a middle ground if you will, between hard line "Survivor" class and a "restorated" class. A survivor certification would certify that the car is a 95% (pick a high number) untouched, roadworthy (should be an operable, roadworthy car with XX% of it's original functions in good working order) Differing from HPOF in that HPOF will certify only certain aspects of the car (engine, interior, trunk, etc) as untouched while other restored aspects are not. If the car is original in all aspects, it's a survivor, change the paint or?, it's now HPOF.

This could serve to help restorers in knowing that a HPOF car with certified trunk and engine compartment are really untouched, while the paint may have been redone. The same restorer (or HPOF owner) could use the Survivor class car to compare the car in totality and visa versa.

[ExYankee]

Then what would be the diffence between a "Survivor" and a car the is certified for Engine, Chassis, Interior, and Exterior in HPOF?

[Ron Green]

Certifying a HPOF vehicle has really got to be hard as you would have to depend a lot on the owner and his documentation. I have heard of a person (well known) going to the expense / extreme of having their cloth interior turned inside out with all re-sewn.

Quote; "The alum trim also had a special finish called "Bright anodizing" which is expensive and hard to find anyplace to do it. I know of 1 in the USA. So the trim gets polished or chromed (Bad idea). Looks great, not correct or original."

John, not to hijack this thread but here is how I have done these side spears, and they look factory correct. Polish the aluminum up to a mirror finish, then have all powder coated clear. The powder coating will dull the shiny finish right down to the exact factory look. Plus you no longer have to keep after it with constant polishing.

[tbirdman]

I have found two places that do anodized aluminum.

Anobrite

http://www.anobrite.com/

Alltrim

http://www.alltrim.com/

Your right about not cheap and unfortunately my 64 converible had a lot of it including tail light trim, dash/console/door trim and grill. You see a lot of the 64-66 Birds going around without this trim done.

And again not to get off the thread but here's a great site for those wanting to do their own trim finishing.

http://www.caswellplating.com/

[Amphicar BUYER]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Then what would be the diffence between a "Survivor" and a car the is certified for Engine, Chassis, Interior, and Exterior in HPOF? </div></div>

Then it would obviously be in the "Survivor" category. right? If a survivor class car fails in any of the above mentioned areas, it becomes HPOF for the remaining untouched areas.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> John, not to hijack this thread but here is how I have done these side spears, and they look factory correct. Polish the aluminum up to a mirror finish, then have all powder coated clear. The powder coating will dull the shiny finish right down to the exact factory look. Plus you no longer have to keep after it with constant polishing. </div></div>

There's a great idea Ron! I'll give it a try on the next one. When I did Weird Harold for Tommy, he had the ultra-rare fat extruded aluminum trim chromed before I received it. It looks great, but one tail fin molding was not pre-fited before plating. That caused a HUGE problem. It had to be stripped and re-plated after I got it to fit properly (bending it cracked the plating). That was not cheap at all. I felt bad for Tommy on that one. You think an NOS piece is expensive!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have found two places that do anodized aluminum.

Anobrite

http://www.anobrite.com/ </div></div>

Anobrite is the one I used. No complaints here. If you get a few others to go in with you, the $300 setup fee can be reduced a lot.