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NH Pulley Colors/Fuel Filter Color/Cylinder Layout?


Smartin

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Asked this on V8Buick, but was thinking I'd get a more experienced response here -

1. What is the correct gloss of black for the pulleys on the Nailhead? And if I have already painted them gloss black, would I get points off for over-restoration?

2. Fuel filter of this thing - the glass deal in front of the air cleaner....what color is the metal housing supposed to be? The last guy who had this car went crazy with the paint brush and painted it the color of the engine. Is this correct??

3. Before I pluck all the wires off the plugs, what layout are the cylinder numbers in? Drivers side bank = 2 4 6 8?? Other way around?

Thanks!

EDIT: This is on a 60 Electra

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What I've used on engine brackets and such that are a "satin" black on the engine is GM Goodwrench Glossy Black Engine Paint PN 12345322 (spray can). It says "glossy" on the can but it is more satiny and is an exact match for the engine accessory items and air cleaners that are black (in the general time frame you are dealing with). I've used it on my '67 Chrysler and it matched that too. Just don't shoot it tooo thick or it will be too glossy (unless you have some factory runs you're trying to duplicate), but lighter coats will work just fine.

In reality, now that I think about it, the particular black might be more inline with the GM Reconditioning Paint (quart) that would match the normal black primer on the body sheet metal, except it'll show fingerprints and such as it is a primer rather than a final coat.

Some have mentioned that a "charcoal grille black paint" looks just like the GM primer but does not have the fingerprint issues.

Using the GM engine paint (from GM rather than an aftermarket vendor) would probably be the easiest one to use. You might get some and see how it works for you.

There are lots of "correct" paints in the reconditioning/restoration marketplace, some even sold by GMRestoration Parts, but I've noticed that they might be as correct as they claim to be. Therefore, some shopping around and trying the right combination of spray paint and techniques which end up with the results you desire might be advisable.

In the case of many parts, they were "dipped" rather than sprayed. For example, the paint was layered on top of a container of water. Then the part was dipped into the paint/water mixture and then removed to hang to dry--dipped either fully or partially. That would explain the inconsistent paint thickness on some parts and that it looked like too much of it drained off before it dried.

Sprayed or duplicated dipped, it all depends on just how correct you desire to be for what you're vehicle is and related issues.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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On my current project I've been using X-Rusto satin black and am pleased with the results. Plus it's cheap. It does have to be thinned about 20% to be sprayable though. Sherwin Williams sells a "chassis Black" that also appears "correct".....Bob.

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