Bluesky62 Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 I've got a 1962 Skylark that isn't that far away from being a pretty nice car, but I've never restored a car before. I took it to a painter who has a real good (locally anyway) reputation a couple of days ago and he gave me an estimate of $2500 to paint it. The top on a "62, remember, is vinyl, so he's just painting the bottom half of the car. He is going to use a good paint - I think he called it either "Beta Clear" or "Besa Clear" (he is Hispanic and his accent is a little hard to understand). The body is totally straight, so he won't have to do any bodywork, but he told me that he's going to take the current finish back down to the metal (it is very oxidized and wasn't very good paint to begin with). Anyway, does the estimate sound like it's in the ballpark? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 No, you are not being taken advantage of. $2500 is about average in my part of the country (Texas) for a good quality paint job. I have paid twice that for a superb quality job on a car that was well worth spending that kind of money one, and I have paid half your price for jobs that were not as perfect, but the car did not warrant much money being spent on it. Paint and materials can approach $1000 to $1200 alone, without any labor, for a paint job that is done right with all of the steps. Of course, you can find shops that will price a job under $1000, but they will skip some of the sanding, preparation, and masking steps. One way to decrease your cost is to remove all of the lights, bumpers, and other bright work trim yourself, before you take the car to the paint shop.Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest karlde Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 David,I had an estimate of $15,000 to do the body work, trim and paint my Skylark Convertible. To keep the price down, I removed the bumpers and all unnessary chrome and lights before driving it to the body shop. Then when the doors and fenders were removed, I took them to a sand blaster (one who will use caution on auto parts and has done several) and had them taken down to the bare metal.I had them repaint the dash (while the windshield was out to be replaced) and the underside of the hood (black) and the inside of the trunk and the remainder of the car red. There was a good amount of body work required on what remained on the frame.I am doing the chrome and stainless steel myself. The cost was $5000.Hope this gives you some ideas.Good luck,Karl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Thanks, Pete. I don't mind paying it if that's about the going rate these days, but I just hate getting taken advantage of. I'm sure (based on everything I've heard about the painter) that he's going to do a good job and he told me himself that the $2500 is "Cheap - very good price I give you", but I'm just not enough up on the times these days to know if he was just blowing smoke or not. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Karl - wow! I had no idea that stuff costs what it does these days! One thing, I guess, that kind of threw me on my hardtop is that - even fixed up - it's not an overly valuable car (to anyone else, that is). I mean it is worth a lot to me, but they aren't worth that much to someone else, are they? How does one figure out how much should be put into a car? I don't know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
palbuick Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 If you are not palnnig a show car , but a good looking driver why no consider a Macco paint job. If you remove the trim, bumpers, you can get an excellent paint job for under $500.I have had several drivers painted by Macco, and after a light wet sanding, and buffing. You couldn't tell it was a Macco paint job. The more prep work you can do the better the paint job will be.JIm Schilf palbuick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Yes, Jim, it is going to be a driver car. I'm a bit torn about it, because it really is in pretty good shape, but I just don't know if I'm enough of a perfectionist and have enough knowledge to take it to show car status. I've been told that it is necessary to take the body off, powdercoat the frame, put it all back together with new bolts, etc, etc. That seems like a lot of work for a car that isn't all that valuable to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 There's a very good discussion on this very topic going on right now on the Packard Cars Board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 One other point to consider....Replacement cost. If the car is going to be a daily driver, I would think twice about getting a $2,000-$3,000 paint job. If the car is totalled, you will have a verrrrry tough time with the adjuster getting anywhere near what you think the car is worth. Adding another $3K to its ACV (Actual Cash Value) is going to make it even harder to settle. I speak from experience after spening two years restoring a 1972 Chevy El Camino SS, and having it totalled one Sunday night <span style="font-style: italic">while sitting at a red light!</span> I virtually haven't touched the 1970 Buick GS in my garage since then because it is so discouraging to spend so much time on a car as a labor of love, only to have one idiot with expired insurance destroy it literally in the blink of an eye. If you want to drive it and enjoy it, get a decent $500-600 paint job (yes, they ARE out there) and have fun. One way to tell for sure about ANY shop, regardless of how much you are going to spend is by asking to see some of his work that they just finished. If you get excuses (my insurance doesn't allow anyone in the back, etc.) then RUN to another shop. That is because every shop eventually has to bring their completed jobs to an area where the customer can inspect it when they pick it up. AND, a quality shop is always proud of their work and eager to show it off. Hey, even Earl Scheib puts their cars out front where anyone can see them. Oh, one more thing...after having several daily drivers painted at local MAACO and local Scheib shops, I would go with Scheib over MAACO in a heartbeat...Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Joe, you give me what sounds like some very logical and sensible reasoning here (I'm sorry to hear that it is based on that really heartbreaking experience!). It really doesn't make much sense to sink a TON of dough into a beautiful paint job if I'm going to be putting it in harm's way every day. And I know one thing for sure - I'm not good at winning arguments with insurance claims adjusters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 David, Here's another thought....For the $1500-$2000 you will save on that "reeeely good priced" paint job, you could have Vintage Air add air conditioning to the car. Go to www.vintageair.com to find a unit that will fit your vehicle, and see if there is a dealer near you. If you are going to use it as a daily driver, cool air on a 100-degree August day will really make it a fun ride. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Joe, that's another good idea. I've been thinking about it, too, the need for air conditioning. It's gets up to 110-112 degrees here in the Central Valley of California (there's no surfing beaches around here where I live!) and AC is just pretty much a must. I think that's a pretty darned good idea - cut back on the flash of a super pretty paint job (for now - it can always be done later) and consider making the car as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. And you know what? It doesn't matter HOW pretty the car is, if it's 110 degrees out, my wife will definitely NOT go for a ride in it with me if I don't have air conditioning in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 David, Sounds like you are going to have a really fun car when you are done. Since you are in such an extreme temperature area (almost sounds like San Antonio summers) be sure to upgrade your cooling fan and radiator. By the way, does your car have the aluminum V-8 or the early V-6?Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 9, 2005 Author Share Posted February 9, 2005 I think it's already starting to be a fun car, Joe! Mine has the aluminum V-8. Is there something about the heat here in the Central Valley (in addition to upgrading the fan and radiator) that I should know in regards to the block's metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critterpainter Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 Where I live $2500 won't get you in the door. The shops for 100 miles around me don't want to do a complete. period. We don't work on old junk. I would be thrilled to get my 65 Mustang painted for $2500.Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted February 9, 2005 Share Posted February 9, 2005 David, I think the only thing you have to worry about is excessive heat. In any engine with different metals (aluminum block, iron heads or vice versa) the metals expand and contract differently when heated. This was the big problem with the Cadillac 4.1 V-8 in the mid-80's. The iron heads would expand, and stretch the head bolts (another metal, hardened steel) and after the bolts stretched, the heads would literally scoot around on top of the block. Eventually, the head gasket would blow, contaminate the oil with coolant, destroy the main bearings, and then the engine was virtually useless. As far as a I know, the aluminum V-8 is a good engine, you just need to exercise more caution when torquing bolts into aluminum threads. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluesky62 Posted February 10, 2005 Author Share Posted February 10, 2005 OK, I got it - careful I'll be. Thanks again for your good advice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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