FireballV8 Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 What degree thermostat should I use?<BR>Its a brand new engine, just rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 A 160 will work in most instances. This gives you a little extra to work with if you get caught in traffic. A 180 is also very popular in the cooler areas of the country ,as the heater works a little better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomE_1953 Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Whew (Tom wiping forehead), I made a good guess in buying a 160. For just the reason the previous post said 'caught in traffic'. When it's 98 degrees and I'm sitting in traffic I just watch that needle climb to 'H' and I've been lucky she hasn't blown with the 180 in her now.<P>I'm installing the 160 this weekend before the temps start to climb around here.<P>Thanks for the information (I just LOVE this forum)!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene Brink Posted May 17, 2002 Share Posted May 17, 2002 Shop manual says "Volatile (alcohol) type anti-freeze solutions up to 50% may be used with the standard 106º radiator thermostat. If a non-volatile (ethylene glycol) type solution is used, the higher limit 180º radiator thermostat may be used to improve car heater performance."<P>As one would have trouble finding anything other than ethylene glycol coolant today either should be okay. Probably a good idea to go with the 160º unit if the climate is hot where you live.<P>Gene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 What model car? I've got a '54 Special, and it didn't come from the factory with a radiator fan shroud. It also has a smaller radiator than a Roadmaster, etc. The factory fan shroud will bolt to the bigger rad, but not the Special's.<BR>I've upgraded to a RoadMaster radiator, a factory fan shroud, and a six blade fan to move more air.<BR>Unfortunately, the clutch died before I could install the bigger rad, and the engine is now out and will be replaced with a '56 322.<BR>Oh, and I can tell you from experiance in Florida's summer weather, with the small rad, no shroud, and A/C that "Water Wetter" does indeed work. It drops the temp nicely.<BR>Good luck<BR>-Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 1, 2002 Share Posted June 1, 2002 When you put that 322 where you took a 264 out,check the stator.If you leave the Special stator in,you will have more RPM's than you may want Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad54 Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 Thank you for the tip, but I've got a manual trans in it. I have an old Cragar bellhousing to adapt a Ford T-85 to it, but I'd like to find one to adapt a GM trans--Either way, it's going to have a 3spd OD manual trans, either Ford or Chevy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest oldtimer Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 i would go with a 160 and use around a 60/40 or even 70/30 (water/coolant) if you change the coolant once a year. the coolant is thicker then water and holds the heat, you need just enough coolant for rust protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2002 Share Posted June 2, 2002 When I was young mechanic I remember people changing to summer thermostats 160 degree opening and winter thermostats 180/190 opening. But the radiator size, coolant flow and quality always controlled how well the lower temperature thermostats could control engine heat. Breaking a rebuilt engine in with a lower temperature thermostat may have some merit depending on quality of the engine rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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