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Fender bolts


1958buick

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First thing would be to get the surface finish, thread specs, and bolt head style of the bolts for when you go shopping at the bolt vendors. Also be sure of the location of each different style/spec bolt and which hole it goes into as there might be some differences (which many might overlook!).

You might need to get into an old GM parts book for that vehicle to get the bolt spec information. That would also generate a GM part number for the bolt. Then you could see if that particular part number is still listed in the GM Standard Parts Catalog and might still be available from GM Parts. Some would be listed as "one per package" and others might be sold in multiples, so that would be a consideration too.

Once you know the bolt specs, you might check some of the restoration vendors that specialize in fasteners. Some can even supply the NOS/repro bolts with the correct bolt vendor markings on the bolt head. Just depends on how "deep" you want to get into the restoration process.

Hope this helps,

NTX5467

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The key is getting the square pyramidal lock washers. You can't get those anywhere as far as I know, though I have not checked with GM myself but I should.

I went to the trouble of sending a sample of one of these washers, that I found in an old bag of Shakeproof washers in my grandfathers toolbox, to Shakeproof - but they could not find any record of ever having made that washer. I still think they did make them, though.

Mr. G's has a similar square washer, but it's not the same one. Like Willie said, probably your best bet is to replate the ones you have. The washers are captive, so you'll have to have the bolt and washer plated together unless you are very clever and can figure out a way to separate them. I don't think you need to separate them, though. When I get mine done, I am going to either blast them first or soak them in molasses/water (this really works! 10 to 1 water to molasses, takes several weeks though) and then send them for plating so I know they started with a clean surface. Probably it would be best to soak them, then blast them. Soaking will remove ALL the rust where blasting would not, and blasting will work harden the surface and hide any pitting to a certain extent where the rust was removed by the soaking.

I could not ever be sure that a plater would go to this trouble, soaking AND blasting, so I will just do that part myself. Although I think they will go ahead and hot tank or acid bath them anyway when they get the bolts. Can't hurt.

Mark

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Guest scott mich bca # 6619

I've bought reproductions from Buick World in OR.

However if you still have the original ones, I also have had much success with

cleaning them up with the wire wheelbrush on the bench grinder. Just make sure you wear eye protection, hold the bolts with a vice grip, and when you are done wash them with laquer thinner, and then clear coat them. If you don't clear coat them, the first time they get wet they will rust.

Scott Mich BCA # 6619, OCA # 3947

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