1958buick

I am also quite sure that spring missing may have been causing this problem with the leather cup riding too high in the accelerator pump chamber. That knob on there is from the slot in the accelerator pump chamber.

Thank you CarbKing. Great information. I ordered a spring kit and clip yesterday and from the pictures it looks like it has the same amount of turns from end to end as you described. I rebuilt the carburetor about 7 years ago and I can't believe I didn't notice that spring missing at the time 🙄. I have been noticing some hesitation from a full stop and that's why I decided to pull the carburetor off as the first possible culprit. There's a good quarter inch of up and down free play in that Rod without that spring attached. So I'm sure I was missing a good majority of that piston stroke without that spring in it...? I'm hoping for the best and I thank all of the responses for this issue. Take care. Les

I'll do some research or maybe someone has a rough idea. Hard to determine seeing that I don't have the spring or another example. I believe I have an example for a Rochester spring. I might see if I can use that for an idea of the spring pressure and then compare for pressure and length. Thank you

Thank you JFranklin. I had thoughts of doing that. The retaining clip type washer is not a problem, I just wasn't sure if there is a required spring tension for the function that it is intended for?

Hello All. I purchased a rebuild kit for my 1958 Buick with a Stromberg WW 7-109. After opening my carburetor, I noticed that the accelerator pump duration spring and C-clip were missing. I'm referring to the one that is attached to the upper portion of the shaft and is retained by the c-clip. The rebuild kit comes with the new accelerator pump but does not include that spring and the clip. Just wondering if anyone has an idea where I can get one? Either the spring and the clip or a complete new accelerator pump with the spring and clip installed. I have checked and see some accelerator pumps for the Stromberg but nothing specific for my version. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks Centurion. The photo I posted, I saw on Ebay. I have seen this photo and others before but have always wondered what happened to the cars after the show?

Does anyone know where this 1958 Buick is or the story behind it? Lots of "Special" treatments to it. Bucket seats, red plaid interior, red accents in the side moldings and the list goes on.... Interesting !

Thanks Spinneyhill and Dei, I am checking all of the ground connections this evening for paint or other debris. I am also picking up the generator and VR from the shop. I do in fact have two ground straps to the firewall. One from each head. I will let you know what I find out. Thx

Hello, For a few months I have been having issues with my 58 Buick charging system. The generator shows no charge after starting the car but will charge after I shut the motor off and place a jumper wire across the BAT and ARM terminals on the voltage regulator (VR) , essentially "polarizing" the generator. That will last for the next few starts of the car and them I am back to the jumper wire. I just replaced the VR with a new AC Delco and the problem is still there. I also checked the generator output with a volt meter to be sure it was not the amp gauge acting up, and I get 12.6v when it shows no charge and 14.2v when showing a charge. Now for a little background, this started after I had the motor out last summer and I took the generator apart for cleaning and bearing re-grease. Brushes looked good and no visual problems. I just took the generator and VR to a reputable repair shop and they checked both and actually said he has not seen such a well spec'd generator in some time and commented that the numbers and tests were great. He said this could be a ground issue or low voltage from battery to regulator (Wire issue). This takes me back to my motor coming out last summer. I am wondering if my repaint my be causing an insulation issue to ground? The generator does have a dedicated ground wire (Yellow) to the casing which runs back to the VR and attaches to the base. Anyway, just wondering if this sounds familiar to anyone. I was thinking about running an additional wire to that Yellow wire directly to battery ground in the event the connection through the VR base is weak in addition to possible paint insulation at the generator attaching bolts. I will also be disconnecting any ground wire connections, battery ground to motor also, to clean them up and remove any paint. On a side note, I am also getting the momentary sound from the starter after the motor starts because the starter gear is not pulling back from the flywheel and is getting spun by the motor after starting. I read in the manual that this could also be caused by the generator system and this has also been happening only after the engine bay work last summer.......Thanks for your time and sorry for the novel, Les

Doug, No plans on the National at this time. Lots of traveling this year. Take Care, Les

Here ya go !

Doug, looks like a very nice Buick to me. Thanks for the comments. I only have about a couple thousand miles on a new front end. I installed new ball joints, bushings, tie rod ends and a rebuilt center link. I also installed a new steering gear this past summer to replace the sloppy one after I took the motor out this past summer and found it loosing lube from the worn shaft. So I think my mind is set on the classic style radials. Thanks to everyone for your input and opinions. The attached photo was my summer project last year.

Thanks for the reply Carl. As previously mentioned in this post, I put on about a thousand miles a year. City Streets and freeway miles. I have driven the Buick to a few AACA events in other states with the longest being about a 5 hour drive. I have thought about the second set of wheels option, but I'm not too interested in that at this time. I plan on being at the ACAA meet in Bettendorf, Iowa in August. That's about the only judged event this year. I plan on just taking the hit for the radials for the preservation.

Thanks for the comments. I have had the car since 2003 and have put on about 14,000 miles. So my Public School arithmetic puts that at 1000 miles a year. Glad I have two feet for all that counting. HA. I would like to keep the "Pie Crust" look as I do not like the traditional wrap-a-round tread as seen from the side. The pictures are what I currently have (Bias) and what I have been looking at for replacement. A friend of mine put these radials on his 1960 Corvette and loves them. The edging is a bit different, but I think I can get to like them.

Hello All, I am replacing the tires on my 58 Buick Special this year. Mostly due to age (2004). Anyway, I have reached the Grand National level with AACA and will be going the Preservation route moving forward. I am thinking about replacing my 7.10 x 15 Bias ply's (Universal Tire) with the Pie Crust style radial look-a-likes but have heard pros and cons in each direction. MOST tell me it was the best decision they made switching to radials and others say that the suspension on these cars were not made for radials and your ride will worsen? Any thoughts on either side of that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Les

Thanks for the ideas. My original material was ripped when I restored the car and I used something similar from a local fabric store. At this point getting my hands on the metal type would be the best bet. Cleaned up and painted, they do look quite nice. I probably need to canvas some classic car junk yards that have a plain Jane Special with a tree growing through the floorboard that just missed touching the glove box....Thanks Again

I am looking for the "metal type" 58 Buick Special Glove box pad and matching dash piece mounted on the right. I have the padded type which I have attempted to repair once, but I don't like the look compared to factory fresh. Any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks. You can email me at ljpiotrowski@sbcglobal.net .

In the event someone else is looking for the Delco Caps, I located and bought some from WWW.BATTERYTOPPERS.COM I heard some places won't sell just the caps, so they can get the whole topper sale, but they (Carl) sold them separately. Take Care, Les

Anyone know where I can get the screw on style 50-60's Delco Battery caps? Black or yellow. I have the battery, but need the caps (6). Any info would be appreciated. The Resto-Stores will only sell the battery. Thanks, Les

<TABLE id=post784410 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD id=td_post_784410 class=alt3>I am looking for a 57-58 Buick Exhaust manifold for the left (Driver's) side for dual exhaust. My single exhaust manifold could work, but the angle may be too severe for the pipe and other obstructions. If you have or know of anyone with this, let me know and thanks a bunch for your time. Les Piotrowski<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR><TR><TD> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> <TABLE id=post784410 class=tborder2 border=0 cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center><TBODY><TR vAlign=top><TD id=td_post_784410 class=alt3>I am looking for a 57-58 Buick Exhaust manifold for the left (Driver's) side for dual exhaust. My single exhaust manifold could work, but the angle may be too severe for the pipe and other obstructions. If you have or know of anyone with this, let me know and thanks a bunch for your time. Les Piotrowski<!-- google_ad_section_end --> </TD></TR><TR><TD> </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE> I am looking for a left side (Driver) Dual exhaust manifold for 57-58 Buick 364. Anyone with one or info about, please contact me. Thanks, Les Piotrowski

I recently placed a wanted ad on this forum and was contacted by a known scammer to the internet. Here is his reply: Hello Les Thanks for the mail. I have the requested brand new left side dual exhaust manifold for your 1958 buick 364 Nailhead in a mint condition and I am asking a 100GBP as I will be shipping via UPS on a 3 working days delivery and will accept payment via Western Union or Money Gram. What's your complete shipping address? Kind regards, Michael Wellington > 15 Liverpool Road, Islington, London, N1 0RW UK > michaelwllngtn@gmail.com > +447024087504 A search of that name and phone number shows numerous complaints of scamming on other forums. Be careful of anyone requesting Western Union or a money gram without confirming the source!! I also sent another email to him requesting a photo of the part and the casting number. I can't wait to get the response. Good Luck, Les

I am looking for a 57-58 Buick Exhaust manifold for the left (Driver's) side for dual exhaust. My single exhaust manifold could work, but the angle may be too severe for the pipe and other obstructions. If you have or know of anyone with this, let me know and thanks a bunch for your time. Les Piotrowski

I would also be interested in the exhaust manifold for Dual (Drivers Side). Let me know if you find it to be the correct one. My email is ljpiotrowski@sbcglobal.net Thanks

I recently purchased a correct used tissue dispenser for my 58 Buick, but it did not have the mounting instructions. I think I properly attached a picture of the mounting bracket to this post?! Does anyone have the instruction sheet? I have seen the sheet with other dispenser's being sold, but haven't seen one for awhile now. OR a close up photo of a properly mounted one would help. Thanks in advance for any help. Les

Dave, I searched the Net and could not find a Power Booster kit. I was able to get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder from Cars, but they did not sell one for the booster. Any suggestions on where they are available, in case I have further problems in the future? Thanks, Les