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1927 Buick Standard 6 27-25 New UK Owner


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Hi, I have just bought this Buick from the previous owner who had it 12 years. The car was shipped new to Australia in 27 and then bodied by Holden. It stayed there until 2010 when it was imported into the UK. It was restored back in 2009.

The car starts and runs but only seems to do about 40 mph. Been through the carb and found the cork float tied together with wire so ordered a new block of material from Bob's in the US.

It has it's original distributor which I have freed off as found the Adv/Ret was binding when hot.

Trying to read all the posts on this website as it's a great resource and look forward to any comments from all you knowledgeable people, as never had an American car before so this is all new to me and my son.

I have posted a few pictures of Bertie (previous owners name for the car!)

Andrew

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Congratulations, they are a fine car. 

I restored and owned the almost identical Standard 1926 model many years ago.  There is a tube inside the exhaust manifold above the carburetor to heat the fuel/air mixture from the caburetor.  It is not uncommon for this inner tube to corrode and develop pin holes allowing exhaust gasses into the intake.    This will make the car run very badly.  The tube can be pressed out and replaced.  That is the first thing I would check

Also, these cars are quite low geared and the engine will be working very hard at much above 40 mph

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1 hour ago, Frank-BuickStd6 said:

The car starts and runs but only seems to do about 40 mph.

Thats a beautiful Buick. Whats the rush?  How much faster than 40 do you expect to go? When that car was built there were not many super highways built so much more than 40 may not have been envisioned 🤔.  Still, it makes sense to fix what is broken. Wishing you good luck and happy motoring.

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Welcome, Great looking Buick!
I am restoring one right now and it will look almost the same as your Buick in the photo. Reached about the 75% mark. Eagerly looking to finishing the project and getting behind the wheel.

Agree with the suggested likely holes in the tube as being a culprit in your woes; check that area early. The image in my avatar is the aspirational end point of my restoration. That car was restored in the late 1970s and is still going strong and has had a few new owners along the way.

They are a leisurely drive, nothing like my Maserati😂, but still fun. Bit slower than my 1938 Buick too.

Enjoy your time with your aging beauty!

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Many thanks for all the comments and will take a look at the riser tube.

I'm not after a sports car as already have one, but would like it to do 50 therefore not being in danger when on main roads.

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Nice looking car. 

 

IMO and others, the real question that you should be asking yourself, is not how fast you can make the car go, but how quickly you can stop.  Is not just the ability of the brakes to grab the drum, but the amount of surface area of the tires to the pavement.  Unlike a modern car that has more tire to pavement contact, your car has much less.  Maybe, just guessing 1 square ft of all the tires combined which is probably the amount of surface area of one tire on a modern car. 

 

Just something to think about.

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I appreciate your point about stopping. Having ridden vintage and classic motorcycles all my life some of which have have simple push bike brakes, you learn to leave large gaps and develop a sixth sense of what people might do!

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It does look like the heat to the riser has been blocked off. But it seems as if quite a bit of juryrigging has been done to the fuel system. My 1925 Standard with the original style updraft will comfortably cruise at 40 mph. It has a one year only 191 cu.in. 50 HP engine. The 1927 has a 207 Cu.in. 63 HP engine. It should have more power but the rear end gearing still limits comfortable crusing speeds to a little above 40 mph. I have had my car up to 55 mph on the rare occasions to avoid being run over on the few times I had to jump on an interstate to cross our Susquehanna river here in PA. The Marvel carb also has a pot metal venturi block that tends to grow and distort. There are modern replacements availables. Also agree with Larry Schramm's comment about stopping!

Edited by dibarlaw
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Just taken the riser off and the exhaust side has been blanked with a plate inserted against the flange so not getting any exhaust contamination into the intake side.

It looks like it has a new thick walled tube up the riser. Should it be this thick as it reduced the bore diameter quite a bit or is this standard? Hope you can make out the photos.

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Frank:

At this point I would ask that you move your posts/threads to the Buick Pre War site for more exposure.

 I know the previous owners of my 1925 Master redid the sleeve with a heavier wall tube. I am thinking it has had an effect on how my car runs.

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