Question on 1926 Studebaker Truck Rims

[Roadster Willy]

I bought a set of Studebaker Truck Disc Wheels, but for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to remove the lock ring that retains the tire in place. It has slots in a certain arrangement, but I have tried all the alignments I can think of, and cannot get the lock ring off. Is there a special tool required? The tires are all deflated and loose on the rim, but until I figure out a way to remove the lock ring, I am stuck.

Has anyone had experience dealing with these? Or anyone have a truck manual that explains how to do this?

Thanks for any assistance or advice!

[arcticbuicks]

That is something to never play around with guessing ......for assembly and tire inflation ,best to seek experienced help and for truck wheels .....the use of a cage when installing also for safety

[1912Staver]

My catalog shows Kelsey - Hayes rims unless it is quite a big truck w Firestone B rims. But those won't be disk wheels.

 So I assume they are the Kelsey's. Do you have the side rings free and pushed back out of the way ? The lock ring won't come off until the side ring is moved toward the inside with the tire. { 3 piece rims, typical of most in this era } Some photo's would help. If they are 2 piece rims like on a Model AA Ford you just have to get the tire out of the way and pry the combined side ring / lock ring out of the groove in the wheel. These ones are quite easy to take apart but are more difficult to correctly assemble than 3 piece rims..

 We all had to learn the procedure. Articbuicks is 100 % correct. Never inflate unless the wheel is in a cage if at all possible , or at least very securely wrapped in heavy chain. And inflate with a clip on tire chuck and air control valve several feet away from the wheel. If one does let go ; even in a cage, you don't want to be standing right next to it. A mistake in assembly and it could be your last mistake.

Edited February 16 by 1912Staver (see edit history)

[stakeside]

Could you post a picture. I am curious if they are Firestone rims.

[wayne sheldon]

I am not familiar with any Studebaker "trucks" per se of the 1920s, I don't know what sort of rims, rings, keepers, they actually used. Multi-part truck (and car!) rims used a wide variety of locking ring designs. Some were two part (the major wheel and a single locking ring), some three part (the major wheel with a holding ring and another locking ring!),  while others had other bolts or clamps to keep the rings from working loose.

There was another design, and this is very important! It was a two-part, the major wheel, and a single ring. What made this other design different, is that the ring did NOT have a cut or split in it to spring onto or off of  the major wheel! HOW they work generally cannot be seen while the rim and ring are assembled with a tire in place. How to work with them is not something that a few thousand words can adequately convey. They are very difficult, and very tricky to work with. And, yes, they pretty much do require a special tool! 

My dad had a 1951 Chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup with the optional 15 inch tires and rims using this non-split ring design. He had taught me how to work with them, and I was changing tires on those rims by myself when I was twelve. How common they are? I don't really know. But I have not seen many trucks of any make or age that actually had them except for his. I do know the design went back some years earlier, and in larger diameters than his 15 inch.

IF (big IF) this is the design of your Studebaker wheels? Advice needs to be very design specific. They are not really difficult to do, IF you know how? But it takes a "feel" gained through experience, to balance the pressure applied with the special ring lever, and the carefully placed light tapping of a medium hammer.

[Roadster Willy]

Thank you for the replies. Yes, I have worked with split rim wheels for many years, on aircraft from Learjets up to Boeing 757's, so I am well aware of the dangers. I will see if I can post a pic. I'm not very computer literate, but we'll see what I can do. 

The wheels are in beautiful shape. I got them from a guy in Indiana who also sold me a Studebaker truck engine (Identical block to my 1925 Studebaker Big Six Pursuit Special Roadster.) I got 6 disc wheels, the engine (which had the power brake assist on the transmission as well) a front axle with brakes, (My car has rear brakes only, but on the pursuit they used the same brakes as on the Studebaker Bus chassis.) and most of the linkages and fittings. I should have asked him at the time how you get them apart, but I was on a tight schedule. He had everything ready to load, and we put it in the back of my UHaul in about 5 minutes and I was out of there, headed to Wisconsin to pick up a complete KR Wilson Model T Engine Service Stand the same night. 

[Roadster Willy]

I dug out the rim from which I removed the tire, by sawing the rubber and cutting the metal cords on each side of the rim area. They are indeed Firestone, 20 X 6. There is a screwdriver or wheel wrench slot that I could put a large screwdriver into, and it appears that I could then pry it off the rim. Is this how Firestone meant to remove the ring?I don't want to do damage by trying to do it incorrectly. 

[1912Staver]

Still going to need a photo if at all possible. I am thinking these are probably Firestone type BO rims that are a 4 piece rim. Several different widths for Studebaker in the 1928 - 1930 time frame depending on the size of truck. But they all are 4 piece wheels according to my catalog. Inner and outer side rings, central band, lock ring.  Outer side ring needs to be pushed toward the inside of the wheel before the lock ring can come out of its groove. The side ring keeps the lock ring in place once it moves out to its normal position.