Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 That’s a great idea. I never thought of using that. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 Received a call from the powder-coater- Rims are done! 5 rims $200 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 Very happy with what I see so far. More photos tonight - this whole “work” thing keeps getting in the way 🙂 4 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 Bit the bullet and ordered 4 Coker Excelsior tires. I’ll use one of the existing tires for the spare. Size: 500/525-21 that’s what was recommended by Coker Why all the added numbers on my existing tires? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted August 19 Share Posted August 19 That looks like a 1960s replacement tire. Those were still available at Sears and Montgomery Wards as well as regular tire shops. They were a "one size fits all" replacement. Basically a 4.50 - 21, but it would physically fit onto any smaller 21 inch rim and was the "recommended" replacement in spit of being too small for the larger cars. Tires, clothing, philosophy, "one size fits all" doesn't actually fit anyone properly. They were actually fairly good tires, and were great on model A and model T Fords that had 21 inch rims. I still have a couple of them from the late 1960s. In fact, one of them is doing temporary roll-around duty on one of my model Ts right now. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 19 Author Share Posted August 19 (edited) I might have a few touchups on the rims after tires are mounted. I’m not sure if the “latch” will scratch when it’s swung open then closed. Couple very small chips at the ends of the rims from rubbing. Can’t really help that but if anything shows afterwards I’ll have to touch up with paint. No hiding any metal issues under powder coat. Edited August 20 by Slawnski Spelling (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted August 20 Share Posted August 20 Make sure the lock swings easily and follow the diagram I sent earlier. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 20 Author Share Posted August 20 4 hours ago, dibarlaw said: Make sure the lock swings easily and follow the diagram I sent earlier. Will do! I appreciate the help. I might just mill down a bar to fit in the lock with a nylon or Teflon pad so it doesn’t scar the rim when I move it. I’m pretty sure I’m going to scratch the powder coat when I swing at least a couple of those locks around. It looks as though they’re pretty close to touching or they are touching the actual rim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 Spent some time masking the wheels and setting up the bits for primer- mounting hardware, bumper brackets, brake rod, and carriage bolts. Tomorrow I’ll scuff the primer that is already on the hubs and rims, clean and prep all parts for epoxy primer. Not sure if I’ll have to prime tomorrow but by Thursday night I should have primer on all these pieces then color on everything by the weekend. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsbrassnut Posted August 21 Share Posted August 21 Those wheels are going to look great when finished. Here is a late tip for anyone thinking of doing a similar multi-colour wheel finish. I prefer to use single stage paints for most of my projects. An old time body man recommended using base clear for the wood wheels of my Cadillac where the rim was a different colour from the rest of the wheel. The rim only was sprayed with the first base colour, with no making of the spokes as over spray didn't matter for step one. Then only the rim was masked and the base colour of the rest of the wheel sprayed. Then remove the masking tape. The final step was to paint the entire wheel with the clear coat, with no masking required. This way there were no masking lines between the top coats of different sections of the wheel. This may be too late for the Buick project. But perhaps others may find the concept useful when planning their project. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 21 Author Share Posted August 21 Thanks nsbrassnut! Yes- too late for this 27-27. I did labor over the order of operations for these wheels. Not wanting to clear over single stage paint I am where I’m at now. I’ll know soon enough if my tape lines will be an issue or not- hopefully before the end of this weekend. Tires should be here tomorrow or Friday so I’m hoping to make notable progress on the car this weekend in the wheel department. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 Epoxy primer applied tonight. The hub I neglected to prime before might need a little sanding and another coat of primer before finish. We’ll see tomorrow. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 Oh boy! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 It’s like Christmas time. Mike 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 4 hours ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: It’s like Christmas time. Mike I did giggle like a little kid when I saw them sitting there 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 So tonight I put the carriage bolts in and addressed the peeling tape. I changed up the hanging system so I can spin the wheel while it hangs. Put the color in the shaker and started setting up for color. Grabbed the box I brought back from paint store. paint- check reducer - check catalyst….. uh…. What? Now I don’t remember if I was given this catalyst saying it was going to work- or I was dreaming it. Not taking a chance. Going to paint store tomorrow to get the right activator. Small bit of disappointment- but better than paint that doesn’t cure. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsbrassnut Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 Hmm, I do see on the information sheet that it can be clear coated if desired. Something to keep in mind if you aren't happy with where the clear spokes and coloured parts meet. Wood spoke wheels are so much work to make them presentable. And a good catch on the catalyst. I once did one of my better final coats on a set of folding top irons. Then wondered later why the paint appeared to be taking so long to set up. Checked the cans again when cleaning up. Turns out I used the harder for the primer in the colour top coat. Had to strip the top irons and start all over from bare metal. 😣 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 23 Author Share Posted August 23 44 minutes ago, nsbrassnut said: Hmm, I do see on the information sheet that it can be clear coated if desired. Something to keep in mind if you aren't happy with where the clear spokes and coloured parts meet. Wood spoke wheels are so much work to make them presentable. And a good catch on the catalyst. I once did one of my better final coats on a set of folding top irons. Then wondered later why the paint appeared to be taking so long to set up. Checked the cans again when cleaning up. Turns out I used the harder for the primer in the colour top coat. Had to strip the top irons and start all over from bare metal. 😣 Nice catch on the clear coat note and something I’ll keep in mind - thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Missing link picked up- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Touched up masking and sprayed color tonight. 3 good coats. Glad I set the hangers up to rotate the wheels. After each coat I rotated maybe 1/2a turn. Tough to get a real good coat between the spokes without overloading the rim. I’m sure there will be a run there somewhere but the roaring of the wheels between coats might have helped that. 4 hours to unmask-might not be able to wait till morning… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Sneak peek. Couldn’t help myself I’ll pull the rest of the tape tomorrow morning. Just had to see 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Looks great! You are moving right along! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31 LaSalle Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 6 hours ago, Slawnski said: Sneak peek. Couldn’t help myself I’ll pull the rest of the tape tomorrow morning. Just had to see Look really good Hope you manage to mount the tyres without damage to the paint A lot of work but nice end result 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Looks awesome. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Unmasked this morning. A very small area of creep on one spoke of one wheel on the drum side. One part of me says I can get in there with a pick and peel out the 1/8 of blue that is in the grain of that spoke. The realistic part of me says- “ yeah right- you know better” 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 (edited) Overall happy with the results. All the extra time and effort to get the transition between spoke and rim did help to make it look good/ok. I have a couple almost runs- one of them I’ll either cut down and buff or sand and repaint ( this time I mean it) I started to mount one of the drums and thought better of it. I’ll wait until paint has cured a bit more. Each drum will go back on the wheel it came off of- I have the drums marked to go back in the orientation it was in originally. See punch marks made to line up at the valve hole. Edited August 24 by Slawnski Added photo (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 I’ll cover the wheels and paint the hardware today. Might take a stab at mounting tires as well. I was optimistically thinking about having the chassis on its wheels this weekend, but we’ll see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nsbrassnut Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 The wheels look great. A a good idea to mark the drums to get them in the right position when the go back on. I missed that step when doing the rear wheels on my early Hudson. Only to find later that the factory was sloppy with drilling the holes for the carriage bolts. These wheels were the larger type with bolts in the hub and additional bolts in the spokes, both which go through the drum. The outer bolt holes in the spokes appear to have been drilled "free hand". The drum would only go back on in one position where the bolt holes would actually line up. And it took several tries to find the right position again. Now you need to add some striping to set the wheels off. If you don't have a good hand pin striper or tool handy here is one option to look at. Finesse pin striping stencil tape. It comes in different striping patterns. Its a double layer tape that after application you take the upper layer off and it leaves the two sides in place ready to apply the paint. And One Shot sign paint is good for the stripes. Then before the paint sets up, carefully remove the stencil tape. The tape is a plastic tape and it can be stretched around curves and does a nicer job than masking tape. https://finessepinstriping.com/ 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 Black sprayed. Time for some 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike "Hubbie" Stearns Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 IMO it needs a white pinstripe would really set the wheels off. Mike 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 4 new Tires, 4 new flaps 4 new tubes in! I would have taken photos along the way but my son popped in and I utilized the extra set of hands while they were available. I was going to use one used tire and the one good used tube for the spare tire but after all the hub bub- I’m going to buy another new tire and new tube- The catch did get chipped a bit - but I touched it up with paint I had from spraying the bolts and bits today. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 43 minutes ago, Mike "Hubbie" Stearns said: IMO it needs a white pinstripe would really set the wheels off. Mike Pinstripes are in order! I agree. 🙂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 24 Author Share Posted August 24 While my son was here we put all the drums on. I’ll still need to put the nuts on and torque them. I plan on using red locktite on the carriage bolt nuts 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 Put the carriage bolt nuts on- I’ll tighten / torque them down and locktite tomorrow. I’ve got to cut new gaskets for the rear hubs and install new felt seals all the way around. Might get wheels on tomorrow. I’ll need to get some pinstripe research in before I mount the tires - I’m pretty sure pinstripes need to go first. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 Front wheel seals installed. I opened the two halves of the seal and put the new felt in. Assembled the new seal and tried to mount a wheel- no go. the new felt would not go over the race. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 I ended up pulling the race, disassembling the seal, and installing the race in the felt- then reassembling the seal This assembly was then pressed back in the wheel and the wheel installed. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 Same process for the other side. Bearings cleaned repacked and installed. Front wheels are now on the chassis. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 I buzzed the hubs on the buffer for a few minutes. I’ll need to see if I can get 4 new covers these are pretty beat up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 New rear felt seals were a little tougher. The seals pulled out ok, and I cleaned up the space the new felt occupies. Also made new gaskets. There’s an inner band that flops around a bit without the seal. Once cleaned I started to feed the new felt in I used that punch to roll around in the opening to push the felt in but it was pretty tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slawnski Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 I set the drivers side rear wheel on and then remembered the rear bearing. Off again- felt assembly thing removed, bearing installed with assembly lube, seal assembly reinstalled and the wheel put back in the car. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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