1910 REO REAR BRAKES

[mikesbrunn]

I have a 1910 REO  and have been trying to get the brakes to work better.   after reading up on different things i come to the conclusion that the brake pads do not touch the drums at all surfaces. There are gaps that i can  see , how to correct this?   the pads are new  

[JV Puleo]

Pads? Do you mean linings?

Are you talking about the internal or external brakes? The external bands are thin steel and tighten around the outside of the drums. The internal brakes are similar but somewhat more substantial. But...you say the linings? are new...what are they? If you went to a brake shop and got the latest and greatest brake linings, they are completely wrong. You cannot use hard, modern brake linings in these cars. They take soft, woven linings, preferably with little brass wires in them. Some cars, like my 19i10 Mitchell had cotton linings about 1/4 inch thick. I've had two REO's, a 1910 and a 1911 so I'm familiar with the system. They work as well as any brakes of the period provided they have the right lining, there is virtually no play in the brake rods and the brake equalizing bar that runs across the chassis turns easily with no drag.

 

What do the drums look like? Those are pressed steel and can be heavily worn. They aren't thick enough to turn like a modern cast iron drum. I had a set spray welded and turned them back to flat.

 

Have you made absolutely certain that the axle seals are there and working? If it's leaking oil onto the linings you'll never get them to work properly. It's all very simple but quite unlike a modern car. The original seals were felt. If they are still in place they are badly worn. If they have been replaced look at the outer bearings and races. Those cars have a 3/4 floating axle with Hyatt-type roller bearings on the outside (they have tapered roller bearings on the inside next to the differential). The Hyatt bearings were never very good and if badly worn the axle will have excessive play. That will ruin any seal very quickly. I've seen a REO axle with a groove nearly 1/4" deep worn by bad Hyatt bearings...

Edited November 21 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[alsancle]

18 hours ago, mikesbrunn said:

I have a 1910 REO  and have been trying to get the brakes to work better.   after reading up on different things i come to the conclusion that the brake pads do not touch the drums at all surfaces. There are gaps that i can  see , how to correct this?   the pads are new  

Post a picture.

[Roger Garnett]

 

The 1910-11 REO brakes are pretty poor compared to later cars. The brake band lining material is important - "Green grabber" is a modern material that is recommended, as long as your drums are in good shape. Your local industrial brake relining shop may stock it, or it can be ordered. https://catalog.rowlandcompany.com/item/friction-materials/woven-brake-lining-materials/4280

 

(BTW, it's flat brake pads on disk brakes, curved shoes on modern drum brakes, flexible linings on brass era brakes and some industrial equipment)

 

It's possible to fit hydraulic brakes, but it's a big $$$$ job. 

 

You might get additional info on this in the REOFour email group - https://groups.io/g/REOfour

 

Roger