FEDCO Medallion Restoration

[kbeach]

This is a project I started some time ago and would like to get finished.  I hope that what I have done so far will spare another from making the same mistakes that I did.

For a bit of history, The FEDCO SYSTEM (Federated Engineers Development Corporation) was developed as an anti-theft deterrent for automobiles and is believed to have been used by Stutz from July 1926 through 1930, and Chrysler (Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge and DeSoto). As I understand, Marmon and a few others also used this system however I have not seen any of the medallions.

To de-code the letters for Stutz, the code D E S C H W A B L Y was used and translates to numbers by converting D as a 1, through Y being 0.

Using the code above this medallion translates from A D 6 6 L to 7 1 6 6 9. This number now becomes the car's serial number. The first letter A , indicates that this car is a long, 145" wheel base. If the first letter were a B it would indicate the car is the short wheel base. This code is stamped at two different locations on the frame. If the title were to be altered the true serial number could be found. Each letter is repeated three times at the top and bottom of each letter where numbers are spelled out at the top and bottom of each number. This medallion was fixed to the dash panel and was designed to be tamper proof. Note the screw driver pry marks on the right side of the medallion.

Chrysler used a code of  W P C H R Y S L E D which translates to numbers by converting W to 0 through D being 9.

To remove the medallion during restoration becomes a real challenge as the design was meant to be "tamper proof".

Looking at the backside of the medallion, I figured the best way to remove would be to place it in the drill press, center punch the two studs and then drill them out. Big mistake, don't do this! After center punching both studs and successfully drilling one out, I found the two studs are 1/2" X 20 thread pitch making it possible to unscrew the back from the second stud. The dash panel was then removed from the drill press so I could admire my work and this is what I found.

I had pretty much destroyed the medallion. This is what they meant by "tamper proof".  If someone tries to remove from the front, telltale marks will be left on the thin metal surround and if someone messes with it from the backside it will leave dimples on the front. This is an extra dash I have and is the reason I used it to experiment with. At this point I took my project to a retired engineer friend and his son-in-law, who is also a retired engineer, for help. 

They were successful in dissecting one stud from the face plate. The medallion is made of copper and must have been made by stamping similar to makeing a coin. The little tip seen in the removed stud, floats and any pressure applied to the back or face plate will cause the tip to dimple the face as I managed to prove.

This shows the little floating tip removed.

When installed at the factory, the two studs would have been screwed in from the front of the dash into the back plate then the medallion pressed onto the end of the studs. Not sure how this was done without dimpling the face.

Close up of stud with tip still in place. Note the slots that the spanner would use to screw stud into back plate.

View of all parts in order as removed.

 

My new method of removal is to use a small cutting disk to slice the back plate therefore sacrificing it. This is the easiest part fo make for reassembly.

Two cuts then trim the corners and the plate unscrewed with no damage to the FEDCO plate.

 

Next step is plating then reassemble on the finished dash panel. So far the studs have not been screwed in tight on the back plate. If I were to do another on I would cut the center out of the back plate and unscrew the two ends.

Edited October 16, 2023 by kbeach (see edit history)

[kbeach]

This is where I currently am with this project and am at a loss as how to proceed.

The medallion stamping has at least three different levels so the method of applying black paint to the entire surface then wiping off the excess does not work. The second question is what part of the plate should be black and what part should be nickel. This one looks like the FEDCO ID was nickel and the remainder of the plate was in black (Stutz name and other outlines). This is how I plan to proceed but have samples of the reverse on other plates.

This is what it looked like before plating. This car was dismantiled during WWll so I doubt that it was ever altered.

This one was taken off of the internet so I do not know it's history but looks to be original. The FEDCO ID is easy to read but you have to work to find the Stutz name.

One more for confusion. This is the one I destoryed at the start. The FEDCO ID BY09Y is in black and the remainder is nickel.

And one last sample. FEDCO ID  BB53W looks to be in nickel and the remainder in black.

 

Back to my question, does anyone know which is correct, Nickel FEDCO ID and the remainder black, or FEDCO ID black, or could they be either way.

Second question, How to paint the black ony? This is way to small for 83 year old hands and eyes to do.

 

 

 

 

[TexRiv_63]

I can't answer your questions but here are Fedco badges from Chrysler and Fargo if it helps.

[BlueDevil]

They look like they were sprayed black and then wiped so the paint on the higher surfaces was wiped off leaving the black background.

That would make sense for a production process. That is also easy to do.

[kbeach]

Thanks @TexRiv_63. That is a big help. Don't believe I have ever seen the Fargo before. I am guessing the same code applies to it? Your Chrysler tag is a nice one and is a good example of the different levels of the stamping. Looking at the right end you can see where the background is the first level, the code letter L is the middle level followed by the r in Chrysler which is the top level. When paint is applied then wiped off the r and parts of the three L's will show but the paint will cover the lines in the background and part of the code L, making them not visible. 

Does your plate use the same two studs like the Stutz?

[kbeach]

Thanks @BlueDevil . Have tried without success (see my comments to TexRiv_63). Have use this process many times on items that are two levels but the middle level seems to create a problem with this one.

[prewar40]

Great kbeach.

I wrote an article about FEDCO for the Gardner Club Newsletter. It includes what was written about FEDCO in 1927.

It's a bit long, but if you're not finding your serial number it's the right length.

 

Over the years I have met car owners that were convinced their car did not have a serial number. The data plate on the engine listed the Lycoming Motor No. and the Car No. was, as usual, left blank. As of Dec 1, 1926 with the introduction of the 1927 2nd Series Gardner, the Car No. was also on the dashboard.

What is FEDCO?

A serial number plate, made in such a way that it can not be changed or removed without detection. Made of nickel and copper and attached in a way that any attempt to remove it will result in its defacement. Any attempt to alter its figures will also result in defacement.

FEDCO (Federated Engineers Development Corp) gave examples to the National Automobile Chamber of Commerce and the National Automobile Dealers’ Association who made attempts to determine if its purpose could be defeated and failed in every instance. It was said it was more difficult to counterfeit than money.

Who used FEDCO?

Chrysler was first with the 1926 models in mid-1925. By Jan 1927 Duesenberg, Elcar, Gardner, Jordan, Marmon, Stutz, Rickenbacker also used FEDCO.

FEDCO & Gardner

The 1927 2nd Series models 80 and 90 used FEDCO the 6B did not. Thereafter all Gardner cars had the FEDC0 number. The 6B was discontinued about mid-January, and that may be part of the reason for the exclusion. The horizontal plate on the right side of the cluster had a bronze color. On the plate the name GARDNER was overlaid with the smaller serial numbers and can be difficult to read today. However, above and below the overlay the serial number was listed and easy to read.

The 1928 2nd Series models 85 and 95 had a vertical FEDCO number, the model 75 continued with the horizontal number. Today there is no known translation table for the serial number letters and Gardner used more than 10 letter to represent digits; making it almost impossible to crack the code.

In 1927 there was a $2 charge for FEDCO and this was later increased to $5. A smart investment as the car was less likely to be stolen. If it was stolen FEDCO gave the owner $5.00 per day up to 30 days or until it was recovered.

Warning

Do not try to remove it, just clean it gently and tell your restorer to use extreme caution in a restoration. The easiest way to read the number is to take a digital photo and enlarge the image.

[kbeach]

Excellent addition @prewar40. This fills in a lot of the gaps in the information I have.

[TexRiv_63]

21 hours ago, kbeach said:

Thanks @TexRiv_63. That is a big help. Don't believe I have ever seen the Fargo before. I am guessing the same code applies to it? Your Chrysler tag is a nice one and is a good example of the different levels of the stamping. Looking at the right end you can see where the background is the first level, the code letter L is the middle level followed by the r in Chrysler which is the top level. When paint is applied then wiped off the r and parts of the three L's will show but the paint will cover the lines in the background and part of the code L, making them not visible. 

Does your plate use the same two studs like the Stutz?

I sold these items years ago but as I recall the Chrysler had the two studs but they had been crudely sawed off.

[prewarnut]

Thanks for the tips. Beautiful Art-Deco art.

My two cents: if there's sufficient background paint in place but the raised metal needs a better shine or plating one can "brush" electroplate with the medallion in place. They make very small tips (down to 1 or 2 mm) for precision artistry - I don't even think that would be needed, a broad 1/4 inch tip to glide over a broad surface is probably fine. Here just the electrocleaning first step might actually remove grime and shine the good surfaces and a replate might not even be necessary. The paint would remain in the low areas. Brush plating nickel is a little tricky to get the surface shining and sometimes requires a bit of polishing but at least an electrocleaning might have brought your initial example 80% back. If you hand-select the parts of the plating kit you need it can be purchased for $100 by one of the companies on-line - obviously with most of them they want to sell a $500-$1000. kit which isn't fun for one project.

[Stevegolf1]

Wow I never knew these existed. It’s amazing how something who’s purpose could be considered mundane could be so beautiful. They don’t make things like they used to.

[TexRiv_63]

Kbeach, have you searched on these forums for information on the Fedco system? As I recall I did some research here a long time ago when I was selling mine since I didn't even know what they were. I know I got some pretty good responses, give it a try.

[kbeach]

@TexRiv_63 I have checked but have not found any information on restoring the medallion, Have I missed something?

[BlueDevil]

Here is what I did with my FEDCO on my Chrysler 72. It has black epoxy primer that I removed with Q-tips and Acetone. First picture is partial. the bottom end is what it started like

 

 

I used a chrome pen to fill the plate. 

 

 

After using the pen. Still need to dry.

 

[Mr. Don]

Hello Kbeach,

 

Question? How was the "Floating" part affixed to the plate? The rather sturdy "Washer" looks like it might have been used as a sleeve to close the end of the stud around the "Floating part" and the cross section of the floating part, creates a dove-tail. -Might the stud be in effect a collet?

 

Two cuts made inboard of the studs would remove a center bit of the back bar and have the possibility of making the remaining back bar into 2 nuts?  Unscrewing those preserves the studs. (Sorry! I had skipped over the part where you had come to the same conclusion. -sorry!)

 

At assembly, originally, the studs had to screw into the back bar first. That then would pass through dash panel, then the plinth, then the washer? 

 

My guess is that the badge with the "floater" attached can carefully be placed so as to nest inside the "Collet/stud", careful compression seals the deal? The plinth and the dash panel itself slide the "washer/sleeve" forward, both closing the "collet/stud" around the "floater dove tail thing" also closing down whatever mechanical fastening system was used to hold the "FDTT" (FLOATING DOVE TAIL THING) to the Copper medallion.

 

Again, my guess is that the floating thing is probably free spinning and to remove the "Back Bar Nuts" (BBNs) you would need to stop the "Collet/Stud" from turning. (Perhaps a small tac-weld or two?)

 

Just a guess.

Edited December 27, 2023 by Mr. Don (see edit history)

[Mr. Don]

Me again. If the first medallion is made of copper, and is not too thick, it might be repaired by a Silversmith, (Metalsmith) adept at repousse. 

 

And/or a replica could be fashioned and Copper sheet formed over that.

 

For future reference, a supportive, conforming media could have been in place to help negate or minimize the deformations.

 

The puzzle remains, how were the floating bits attached to the medallion? On the copper's back was there any evidence of a lip, tabs, prongs or bezel? Remains of adhesive? -solder?

 

I love puzzles

 

-Don

[kbeach]

@BlueDevil I like what you have done and will give it a try.

@Mr. Don All good questions. I had boxed all the parts and put away for a rainy day. I'll get it out first of the year and refresh my memory but I believe the thought was the copper medallion could have been fixed to the backing plate by a low temp solder. Thanks to both of you for the interest to help get this project back on track.

[pre1939chrysler]

Hello gentlemen, I  have many fedco plates off early Chryslers and never gave it much attention. Many I have removed from bad dashes ND could take them apart without much trouble . I always start from the back and work foward 

My 29 Chrysler I have and since I was 13, had a copper color but the silver may have come off

I don't think Chryselr would paint any part of the plate.Personally I would not try to remove the plate but plate it it in place. A WIRE BRUSH CAN BRING OUT YHE HIGH  LIGHTS.

[BlueDevil]

I am going with this for the time being.