Matt Harwood Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Well, we managed to pull the Century's 320 on Saturday, but the transmission gave us a fight. I planned to pull the engine/trans as an assembly, but we couldn't get the torque ball to let go. I removed the 5 bolts that go through a steel flange that seems to hold them together, but it still wouldn't budge.Does anyone have any advice on getting them to separate? Are there other bolts that I should remove somewhere else? I'm just doing this by instinct, since the shop manual is pretty vague about removing the transmission.Thanks for any help! (By the way, you can check out photos of the removal procedure on my page, below). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 The bolts you removed are the only ones holding the unit together. If it does not come apart, you may need to COAX it little. A wedge at the parting line ,and a BIG hammer will probably do the job! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 You need to remove the rear shocks before you devide the Torque Ball and Transm. and I think you need to lossen the brake cable from frames to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted May 12, 2003 Share Posted May 12, 2003 Leif is correct! Before you can move the rear end far enough to remove the trans, you need to unhook the items he mentioned. The rear end should move an inch or so even with these still hooked up. Don't forget to also unhook the rubber brake line that is attached to the rear end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted May 15, 2003 Author Share Posted May 15, 2003 Well, the transmission is out. I discovered the secret to successfully removing it without problems: Make sure all the bolts are out.Duh.I missed one on the flange. Once I removed it, the transmission practically fell out on its own. I'm such an idiot.Thanks for all the suggestions. I appreciate it. You can see the removal process on my web page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_MrEarl Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Bringing up this old post for clarification. Matt stated that he had already pulled the engine but couldn't get the tranny loose.(ultimately because he had not removed all the bolts) My question is: Do the rear shocks, brake lines and park brake have to be removed/disconnected to remove the tranny if the engine is not there?As I have the entire front end off of a 54 Roadmaster I was planning on pulling the engine and transmission for detailing. Can I just unbolt the tranny from the torque tube or do I indeed have to do all the above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Guy Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Lamar If you disconnect the torque ball from the rear of the trans, you should be able to pull the engine far enough forward to remove the complete unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Don't forget the speedometer cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest imported_MrEarl Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Thanks Joe, that's good news.Bob, do I detect fome familiarity with that situation in your voice? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 10, 2007 Share Posted November 10, 2007 Twice.......DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest martylum Posted November 17, 2007 Share Posted November 17, 2007 Hi-I too am just about ready to remove the engine and tranny from a 53 Sylark and will take care to get all those pesky torque ball bolts out and the speedo cable too.Are there any special points you who have had one of these dynaflow trannies rebuilt can give me to pass on to a local tranny rebuilder who doesn't have much experience with older trannies and will depend mainly on the shop manual and a tranny supplement manual for pointers?Who did you source for replacement parts such as clutches, etc?We did not have this car running so have no idea what shape the tranny is in but can see that it leaked heavily toward the rear. My last dynaflow rebuild in my 56 was done years ago by a tranny shop whose owner has retired.Thanks in advance for your pointers.Also, if you have done a 53 or so with power steering have you found a source for P/S hoses?Martin Lummarty@oldercar.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted November 18, 2007 Share Posted November 18, 2007 Cars inc has the hoses. Fatsco has all the parts as does Dave Edwards. Dave is less expensive. The orginal bands have weak anchor lugs, the new (rebuilt)ones are stronger. You will also want a new torque ball kit to replace the old leak prone system.......Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillMadden Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 I pulled the eng/dynaflow as a unit from my '53 Super. It's correct to say "all you have to do is make sure all the bolts are out". I would like to add though, that if you plan to move the car around with the eng/tran out, you might consider securing the rearend first. Without the torque tube being bolted to the tranny, the rearend is free to move from side to side, forward/backward, which will goof up your shock links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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